Mowing ..

[DFB FGXR6]

If I could design the "perfect" mower, at least for someone who uses these for a living, I would have the following -

Deck - 21-inch alloy deck for durability and work time efficiency. The best I have used has been the Rover Pro-Cut base, a full width chute for excellent catching, with the ability to change the angle of the ride height to suit mulching if desired.



Drive System - as I have mentioned in the past, you don't really want to be pushing a big 21-inch machine around all day, fine if you are young, but not pleasant for hours on end. Again, the Rover system mounted the gearbox on top of the deck, keeping it cleaner and maintaining the full width chute. The only drawback being the single speed, so I would want that changed to allow speed adjustment. The drive engagement lever would also mimic the Rover design.



Engine - I'm torn here, because I really love the Honda GXV-160 for the smoothness, durability and fuel economy. But it doesn't quite have the reserve of torque provided by the 190cc Briggs 850-series. In fact, I would go one step above that and spec the larger 223cc 1000-series version of that Briggs engine. More is better, right? Fuel consumption would be higher, but I wouldn't be left wondering. Ideally, I would also like a high mount air filter as well. And the Briggs OE fuel gauge, fuel filter and oil filter would be nice too.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/au...ex-series.html







Catcher -Dacron fabric catcher, these offer larger volume with superior ventilation, while also being easier to empty. I would also have a steel catcher flap.





Cutting System - Blade disk with four swing-back blades for superior catching performance and crankshaft safety. Again, the Rover and Bushranger design is the best I have used, the main/central bolt is then supported by three other smaller bolts, making it easier to get the disk correctly aligned.





Height Adjustment - Single level adjustment, with small increments between detents to better adjust to each lawn/job. Rover and Victa are king here, allowing you to scalp down to 10mm right up to tipping at 70mm.

Wheels - plastic wheels suit me fine, the steel wheels with rubber "tyres" have worn quite quickly on my Bushranger, I have even "popped" them off the rim a few times.



Ancillaries - Axles should be bolted in place, not suspended with clips, ala Rover and Bushranger.





Steel wear strips on each side of the deck to avoid wearing down the chassis.

The pull rope should be handle mounted.



No engine brake/dead man's handle, I'm a grown up and don't need such a nuisance device, no more clamping! No blade clutch ala Honda, less maintenance issues.



Throttle and speed adjustments in the same arrangement as the Bushranger.



Handles should be solidly mounted to the deck and have a soft touch material on the hand grips.

And lastly, a drink bottle holder! Don't launch, my old Victa Razor had one and it was brilliant for summer mowing jobs.



Basically, this "perfect" machine would be a combination or Rover and Bushranger, with a Briggs engine. I guess such a machine doesn't exist being it would cost too much. If this theoretical mower existed, I would happily pay up to and beyond $3000 for such a machine.

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

If I could design the "perfect" mower, at least for someone who uses these for a living, I would have the following -

Deck - 21-inch alloy deck for durability and work time efficiency. The best I have used has been the Rover Pro-Cut base, a full width chute for excellent catching, with the ability to change the angle of the ride height to suit mulching if desired.

image

Drive System - as I have mentioned in the past, you don't really want to be pushing a big 21-inch machine around all day, fine if you are young, but not pleasant for hours on end. Again, the Rover system mounted the gearbox on top of the deck, keeping it cleaner and maintaining the full width chute. The only drawback being the single speed, so I would want that changed to allow speed adjustment. The drive engagement lever would also mimic the Rover design.

image

Engine - I'm torn here, because I really love the Honda GXV-160 for the smoothness, durability and fuel economy. But it doesn't quite have the reserve of torque provided by the 190cc Briggs 850-series. In fact, I would go one step above that and spec the larger 223cc 1000-series version of that Briggs engine. More is better, right? Fuel consumption would be higher, but I wouldn't be left wondering. Ideally, I would also like a high mount air filter as well. And the Briggs OE fuel gauge, fuel filter and oil filter would be nice too.

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/au...ex-series.html

image

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Catcher -Dacron fabric catcher, these offer larger volume with superior ventilation, while also being easier to empty. I would also have a steel catcher flap.

image

image

Cutting System - Blade disk with four swing-back blades for superior catching performance and crankshaft safety. Again, the Rover and Bushranger design is the best I have used, the main/central bolt is then supported by three other smaller bolts, making it easier to get the disk correctly aligned.

image

image

Height Adjustment - Single level adjustment, with small increments between detents to better adjust to each lawn/job. Rover and Victa are king here, allowing you to scalp down to 10mm right up to tipping at 70mm.

Wheels - plastic wheels suit me fine, the steel wheels with rubber "tyres" have worn quite quickly on my Bushranger, I have even "popped" them off the rim a few times.

image

Ancillaries - Axles should be bolted in place, not suspended with clips, ala Rover and Bushranger.

image

image

Steel wear strips on each side of the deck to avoid wearing down the chassis.

The pull rope should be handle mounted.

image

No engine brake/dead man's handle, I'm a grown up and don't need such a nuisance device, no more clamping! No blade clutch ala Honda, less maintenance issues.

image

Throttle and speed adjustments in the same arrangement as the Bushranger.

image

Handles should be solidly mounted to the deck and have a soft touch material on the hand grips.

And lastly, a drink bottle holder! Don't launch, my old Victa Razor had one and it was brilliant for summer mowing jobs.

image

Basically, this "perfect" machine would be a combination or Rover and Bushranger, with a Briggs engine. I guess such a machine doesn't exist being it would cost too much. If this theoretical mower existed, I would happily pay up to and beyond $3000 for such a machine.

image

All of those things except petrol engine. It should be battery powered with no performance deficit, and a 6 hr run time on single charge. I will throw away all my petrol and 2 stroke equipment if that appeared.

[Citroënbender]

I’m not sure if this blended model should be the “Bushrover” or just the “Roger”.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

I’m not sure if this blended model should be the “Bushrover” or just the “Roger”.

I vote for "Bushrover".

[Citroënbender]

Probably a better name. Like Hoovering the house, I’m not sure that “Rogering the lawn” sounds ideal.

[genebaby]

Presenting..........The New Mower!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by genebaby

Presenting..........The New Mower!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


image

I see that's the One-Man-Power model.

[genebaby]

I have not even tried to use it, but I noticed it was looking at me for those days I didn't have a mower. I had better get my butt into gear!

I tried to find someone with the Masport Contrator in stock but it was not easy, unless I lived in NZ.

I rang Masport and the problem became evident. It hasn't been released here yet! The lady said it should be available in October.

I looked at the lawn, wishing I had given it a mow before I took the old mower away.

I was thinking of bringing the mower back and forth, but realised I can just as easily find something to use in the meantime and move it on when I get the new one.

Enter the Ryobi!



Very near new, the guy can't pull start anything anymore after surgery so he's gone electric.

This thing does start easy, first pull every time, but it is not as solid as the Masport, or any other mower I've had. The catcher system is terrible, very difficult to put on.

It did get the job done, so I'll be nice to it so it lives until I don't need it anymore.

[danzvtil]

Getting sick of clipping jap box spheres with hand shears. Bought this instead.
Review to follow.
https://www.stanfordmowers.com.au/?attachment_id=6348

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

Getting sick of clipping jap box spheres with hand shears. Bought this instead.
Review to follow.
https://www.stanfordmowers.com.au/?attachment_id=6348

I have the Stihl version and it works very well for what you have in mind. I also like it for clipping low shrubs into shape or dead heading something like Dianthus Carnations.



Side note regarding clipped spheres. I once had a lady come into the nursery and told me she wanted some big balls. I mean, it took all my self-control to not snigger at that. For the record, she wanted two clipped Buxus sempervirens.

[Citroënbender]

That anecdote got a good snigger out of me.

Shame you had just sold out of Innuendus Sempevirens “Foxpaw” that very morning and she was stuck with Buxus.

[DFB FGXR6]

The Victa Super 24, Super 600 or MasterCut 600.






Victa made these for decades, basically an alloy base slasher mower that delivered a 600mm / 24-inch cut. They had no self-propel and the blades were belt driven. These things were typically fitted with the 2-stroke engine for stamina, but they also used Honda and Briggs engines at various points too.





In the end, Victa was fitting the useless DOV Vanguard, which I think would have been pretty underpowered. Once the 2-stroke engine was discontinued in the late 2010's, the MasterCut 600 disappeared with it.

I want one by the way!

[John 13]

Re. The Victa Super 24, Super 600 or Mastercut 600.

If I could attach photographs etc I would show you mine. An ex hire co. machine likely made in house here in Perth. Somewhat similar in design to the Victa with a Kubota GS 300 engine set up for the blades to turn anti clockwise.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by John 13

Re. The Victa Super 24, Super 600 or Mastercut 600.

If I could attach photographs etc I would show you mine. An ex hire co. machine likely made in house here in Perth. Somewhat similar in design to the Victa with a Kubota GS 300 engine set up for the blades to turn anti clockwise.

Sounds very enticing.

Sign up at PostImage, then click "Upload", select your pics, then follow the below by clicking "Share" and then "Hotlink For Forums". Go back to your post and paste the image link into the post.

https://postimages.org/

[Citroënbender]

Got an interesting challenge here, looking for suggestions.

I’m out of Sydney clearing a deceased estate for listing. Large (empty) aviaries in the backyard, smothered by heavy wisteria growth.

Aviaries need to go, it will make the yard look much bigger. Access is by small gate only; it’s about 900mm wide. Budget is very limited, as is my time. I’m working solo.

Any suggestions on ways to shift the wisteria in a way that balances time, thrift, removal and potential resale of some aviary units?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

Got an interesting challenge here, looking for suggestions.

I’m out of Sydney clearing a deceased estate for listing. Large (empty) aviaries in the backyard, smothered by heavy wisteria growth.

Aviaries need to go, it will make the yard look much bigger. Access is by small gate only; it’s about 900mm wide. Budget is very limited, as is my time. I’m working solo.

image

image

Any suggestions on ways to shift the wisteria in a way that balances time, thrift, removal and potential resale of some aviary units?

If you can walk across the roof of the aviary, then run your hedger or chainsaw in a line along the fence side, then half way down the length. You should then be able to pull it off the roof in two sections, where you would drag to your ute/trailer/skip.

Or......................tip the jerry can of petrol on it, set it on fire and call the fire brigade.

[Citroënbender]

Good spot on the jerry.

Hadn’t thought of cutting it into big strips. Being presently in the higher eighties with weight, not sure if I want to add much to the roof load by walking on it - will be cautious!

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

Got an interesting challenge here, looking for suggestions.

I’m out of Sydney clearing a deceased estate for listing. Large (empty) aviaries in the backyard, smothered by heavy wisteria growth.

Aviaries need to go, it will make the yard look much bigger. Access is by small gate only; it’s about 900mm wide. Budget is very limited, as is my time. I’m working solo.

image

image

Any suggestions on ways to shift the wisteria in a way that balances time, thrift, removal and potential resale of some aviary units?

Looks like multiple aviary units, can you slide them out from under the wisteria verandah one by one. Or, you can list them on dumbtree as a buyer to remove. They might do the job for you.

[Citroënbender]

It’s not a large town, even the free items take a while to move on. I’m worried if I put a “buyer to remove” condition on the units (yes, they appear to be independent cages) it might fall into the category of too hard/CBF, when they see it.

I’d say these cages have been in place 15-20 years, maybe longer. Even if they’re not really anchored I think they’ll have sunk into the ground quite a bit and kikuyu will have finished the job of holding them in place.

[Citroënbender]

Still yet to achieve this outcome, had to divert for prior scheduled jobs in Sydney.

Crash Bunny has an FS38 bent shaft Stihl trimmer with carby issues (plug looks almost new). Hard to start then won’t rev. Likely to come good with a carb adjustment or just chuck another complete unit on?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

Still yet to achieve this outcome, had to divert for prior scheduled jobs in Sydney.

Crash Bunny has an FS38 bent shaft Stihl trimmer with carby issues (plug looks almost new). Hard to start then won’t rev. Likely to come good with a carb adjustment or just chuck another complete unit on?

That's an easy one, remove the spark arrestor from the muffler outlet, it will be blocked solid with carbon. You can use a wire brush, but its easier to burn it off with a flame of some sort. Reinstall and it should start and rev like new. Because this happens gradually, it sort of loses performance very slowly over time, so might not notice the problem until it won't rev or start properly. If the user isn't running the machine at full tilt, then it tends to increase the likely hood of the carbon not burning off fully.

[Tassie f100]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

Still yet to achieve this outcome, had to divert for prior scheduled jobs in Sydney.

Crash Bunny has an FS38 bent shaft Stihl trimmer with carby issues (plug looks almost new). Hard to start then won’t rev. Likely to come good with a carb adjustment or just chuck another complete unit on?

Mine had the same problem after not being used for a few months.pull carb off and flush the gunk out,fill with new fuel and Jenny,s your Uncle

[Citroënbender]

Much improvement; a three person job with ladder, recipro, loppers and 18V Ryobi chainsaw to get this far. One tip and trailer load to date. Fibrous aerial roots were matted with humus 80-100mm thick in places.

[Tonz]

poor old shed will fly away with that load gone

[Citroënbender]

There would be no complaints here. Saves dismantling them.

Tomorrow we edge, mow, do a tip run of mixed waste (ute tray) plus balance of green waste (trailer), dismantle and stack the shed panels.

[Tassie f100]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

Much improvement; a three person job with ladder, recipro, loppers and 18V Ryobi chainsaw to get this far. One tip and trailer load to date. Fibrous aerial roots were matted with humus 80-100mm thick in places.

image

Just curious.what does it cost you to ger rid of a ute load. $25 ute or trailer locally.$157 tonne with 90kg min at Launceston.

[Citroënbender]

Lithgow Tip is free for residents, my friend who’s helping is executor and the rates notices are to her. Even the tip “shop” is free.

We were early adopters of the FOGO bins in Launceston but honestly if you have a decent yard/garden they’re undersized. Didn’t have a ute there, had to line the boot with a tarp and take smaller loads.

[danzvtil]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

Got an update on my broken stihl hedgers today, was told they ordered and installed the "electric module", but no dice, so have now ordered motors. Its been 7 weeks since the first one broke. I took great pride in telling him that i dont care what he does with them, im into huski now and wont go backwards
Now a report since they have had some solid use, both using the same Bli300 9AH battery.
520iHT4 telescopic-
This unit seems to NOT use as much battery as the hand held.
Super sharp and fine cut.
Metal gear box gets hot with use.

520iHD60 hand held
Goes through the battery bars quicker than the telescopic.
Cuts very fast to a high standard, even the fine stuff. I have to be careful not to gouge tight hedges where the stihl would just ride over.
I might be imagining it, but the gearbox on this must be filled with lanolin grease, it smells sheepy when it gets hot.

I have a job which is tight jap box/lilly pilly and abelia hedges, took me a solid 3.5 hrs on both machines and used 3 of the 4 bars, when the stihl gear takes 5 hrs. As long as i can keep the billable hours up, it will be great.
Had another 40 meter cypress hedge, and the cut was first class, so highly recommend these units to anyone, i am now looking at huski blowers and whippers that i might add to the collection.

A 2 year update on these commercial huski battery hedgers, these have been used daily for that time, absolutely thrashed, and used to keep some gardens up to a very high standard.
I have not had any degradation on the life of the BLI300 battery, the battery case is starting to get loose from being bumped and dropped, but works as intended.
Each unit has had at least one warranty repair of an electronic “module” turned around quickly by the selling dealer.
The handheld has just received a new blade set worth $250 as i had worn the old one out.
The pole unit is in currently getting the switch button replaced.
I am now completely sold on battery being appropriate for commercial use. The BLI range of batteries are unobtainium as councils have standing orders for dozens at a time for their crews to use.
All I can say, is if you are looking, as with petrol/2stroke units, make sure you are looking at commercial rated units.
My next battery powered purchase will likely be a blower.

[Interceptor]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

The BLI range of batteries are unobtainium as councils have standing orders for dozens at a time for their crews to use.

And this will forever be the downfall of anything electric.

Onto other topics, over the weekend I picked up another Honda mower, this one a HRU19K1, and to my surprise, for a 19" deck, it has a plastic blanking plate similar o what you'd expect to find if it was optionable with a self propelled drive axle.... well whaddya know, it has a half width discharge chute, and from multiple reports, issues discharging wet grass!

Person who dumped it says "it wont *******start".....

got it home, gave it some fuel, nope, no start..... check the plug (which wiggled when i tried removing the plug lead) and its got a BR9ES plug half screwed in..... wonder why it wont start? gave it a new plug and it started straight up.....

Some people simply dont deserve anything nicer than yardforce.

[Citroënbender]

Indeed, the spark arrestor was solidly caked with carbon. Presently got the whole muffler in chemicals to try and remove much as possible.

Hoping there is no further issue, but I notice the primer bulb never gets a really “firm” feel to it so there could be supply side investigations later.

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

That's an easy one, remove the spark arrestor from the muffler outlet, it will be blocked solid with carbon. You can use a wire brush, but its easier to burn it off with a flame of some sort. Reinstall and it should start and rev like new. Because this happens gradually, it sort of loses performance very slowly over time, so might not notice the problem until it won't rev or start properly. If the user isn't running the machine at full tilt, then it tends to increase the likely hood of the carbon not burning off fully.