Car Detailing - What products are your go to? - Page 93

**DFB FGXR6** · 16-11-2023, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Having used both, Nova Evo trumps it in every way, less maintenance, longer durability, easier to apply and only need one coat. I'm not a fan of ceramic coatings, but Nova Evo does the job so well. Give it a go next time.

CQUK disappointed me so much for all the hype it carries, mainly longevity and water marks, only lasted 12 months on one of my cars i coated.

I was surprised to see NV EVO is graphene infused, something they really don't highlight on the box or product images. Perhaps they didn't want to join the hype train on graphene, rather let the product do the talking.

**DFB FGXR6** · 16-11-2023, 07:32 PM

My Waxit Black Friday order arrived today.................

Carpro Lift is probably my favorite alkaline decon soap, and I have decided to give NV Snow another run. Both were bargains with this sale.

The rest is new to me. The Carpro fragrances have been around a while, however the Shine Supply ones have only just been launched. Here, I'm trying Carpro's Lime & Mint and Squash, Shine Supply's Apple and Coconut scents.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...39314842386521
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40652805734489

I also decided to try two of Carpro's newest arrivals -

Clarify PH2OBIC , pronounced Clarify-Phobic. Stupid name aside, this is a glass cleaner with Si02 in it, meaning you clean and protect in one step. Personally, I would probably team this with an existing glass coating, and I would not use this on interior glass, especially on tint film.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40654591819865

The Skin Care Kit is a very nice addition to the Carpro range, combining the new leather cleaner and protectant, brush, towels and MicroBuff pad in one box. The chemicals are not yet available separately, but the brush and MicroBuff can be purchased separately.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40654447968345
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40653098156121

The first thing I noticed with this kit is the above mentioned MicroBuff pad, which can be used for cleaning or as an applicator pad. It feels extremely soft and plush, and features a foam inner pad to maintain integrity. I can see why this is currently sold out!

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40654455472217

raised by monkeys · 17-11-2023, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

I have actually used Magma in conjunction with a clay bar, so it can be done. Just be mindful that when doing these two steps in one that you may inflict more paint marring, which may or may not be important to you.

Used magma with clay bar? I wont be using clay bar this wash, but good to know.

Paint was decontaminated and buffed a couple of months ago and dont have time for a full process. I have AG polar blast and AG wash on hand. Should I blast, magma, then wash? I usually do a foam up with AG blast, then foam with AG wash followed by tub wash by hand (mitt) using AG wash.

stannoplan · 17-11-2023, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raised by monkeys

Used magma with clay bar? I wont be using clay bar this wash, but good to know.

Paint was decontaminated and buffed a couple of months ago and dont have time for a full process. I have AG polar blast and AG wash on hand. Should I blast, magma, then wash? I usually do a foam up with AG blast, then foam with AG wash followed by tub wash by hand (mitt) using AG wash.

The trick is to use the clay bar on the cleanest surface you can, if you are removing iron at the same time it may mar, they clay bar will introduce slight marring anyways. better to do in 2 steps with a wash in between, you wont need to dry it before the clay bar step though ;)

Saying that, I did both on a customer car last month as it was getting a 2 step, stinky hands even with gloves.

stannoplan · 17-11-2023, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Having used both, Nova Evo trumps it in every way, less maintenance, longer durability, easier to apply and only need one coat. I'm not a fan of ceramic coatings, but Nova Evo does the job so well. Give it a go next time.

CQUK disappointed me so much for all the hype it carries, mainly longevity and water marks, only lasted 12 months on one of my cars i coated.

With the sales I can get NV for $134, or CQUK + Gliss for $146. NV Evo is one coat, I normally do 3 with CQUK.

Any thoughts? Thought I might do my kids cars as they treat them so badly and the dad car wash isn't always open ;(

**DFB FGXR6** · 17-11-2023, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raised by monkeys

Used magma with clay bar? I wont be using clay bar this wash, but good to know.

Paint was decontaminated and buffed a couple of months ago and dont have time for a full process. I have AG polar blast and AG wash on hand. Should I blast, magma, then wash? I usually do a foam up with AG blast, then foam with AG wash followed by tub wash by hand (mitt) using AG wash.

Yes, using the iron remover as the clay lubricant is possible if you want to save time. But the risk if inflicting more marring. In your case, having recently polished, I would just go with the iron remover on its own.

This would be my process in your case -

1/Before rinsing, apply the iron remover to the whole car. You need to do this on a cool morning or in the shade. Most people do the iron remover after the wash, but doing it before allows the chemical to work more effectively without dilution.

2/Once you see the iron remover has started to react, usually 3 to 5 minutes, foam your chosen soap over the top of the iron remover. This allows the iron remover to continue to work, while also softening dirt of oilier contamination.

3/Rinse thoroughly.

4/Reapply your chosen soap and then hand wash.

As mentioned, applying the iron remover before getting the car wet increases its effectiveness. You do need to monitor it to ensure the product doesn't dry on the surface though. Foaming over the iron remover keeps it active, although less potent.

**DFB FGXR6** · 18-11-2023, 09:00 PM

Autobuff have just launched their Black Friday sale, with up to 30% off storewide. Sale ends midnight November 27.

https://autobuff.com.au/?_kx=NAmBDx4...iZ4U%3D.NbPnt6

**fordomatic** · 18-11-2023, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stannoplan

With the sales I can get NV for $134, or CQUK + Gliss for $146. NV Evo is one coat, I normally do 3 with CQUK.

Any thoughts? Thought I might do my kids cars as they treat them so badly and the dad car wash isn't always open ;(

Give Evo a go mate, i've got nothing but praise for the coating. Because Evo is only one coat, it makes it super quick to apply as well. I also flashes off quickly and is super easy to level. I find it easier to use than CQUK.

**fordomatic** · 18-11-2023, 10:54 PM

Just got back inside after starting the sister Subaru RS. God I love Subaru paint, it is so ridiculously soft. A couple of long, deep scratches, got them out effortlessly with Scholl S20 and Shine Mate blue pad. Will upload pics tomorrow.

stannoplan · 20-11-2023, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Give Evo a go mate, i've got nothing but praise for the coating. Because Evo is only one coat, it makes it super quick to apply as well. I also flashes off quickly and is super easy to level. I find it easier to use than CQUK.

Have duly ordered a bottle and a LC microfibre pad to get the free shipping.

Also repco have their Black Friday up and away. https://www.repco.com.au/promotion/b...ck-friday-sale

30% off AutoGlym (get your Magma ;)) and still 20% off Auto club card, they have CanCoat for $68 - bargain.

**fordomatic** · 20-11-2023, 08:12 PM

Ok, I don't usually do this as it takes a lot of time and i'm not sure how helpful it actually is for people. I'm going to keep it brief and if people would like more detail about something, then let me know. I wanted to do more pictures but I simply didn't have the time.

Also, props to DFB, I don't think people realise how much work he put into replying to people and providing the information he does. He is a world of knowledge and should be commended for how detailed his posts are.

Ok, so, my sisters 2008 Impreza RS sale detail. I fully corrected this car 6 years ago and expected the paint to be flogged. I was pleasantly surprised that it was pretty good. First off I washed it with Carpro Lift. I did no decontamination or claying.

The roof had these crazy scratches all over it though, some were deep. The drivers side also had a scratches all the way down the side. I was going to use rupes uno but it simply didn't have enough cut to get the bigger scratches out. I reverted back to the old faithful Scholl S20 black, with a blue pad, was the best combination.

I did the whole passenger side with Rupes Uno as that side only had minor washing swirls. The bonnet, roof and drivers side I did with Scholl S20. Now, the plan with this car was to get a result as quickly as possible and not get stuck wasting time trying to make it perfect.

Rupes Uno was super easy to use and I did the whole passenger side in 1 hour. I could have worked it longer but I was testing how much I could get away with just going quick. I then spent 3 hours on the roof, bonnet and drivers side. This is very quick, I only did about 3 passes on each section with the buff. To put it in perspective, when I did my Pursuit 250 detail, I averaged 3 hours on each panel to get it 99% corrected.

Subaru paint is a pleasure to detail, it is so insanely soft. Even though it is soft and I rushed the correction and didn't work the product down as much as I should have, it left zero marring on the paint.

After the quick correction I washed the car again, before using Nova Lustre spray wax. I usually dont wash after a correction, I'll usually wipe it down with Clarity, but the S20 was super dusty this time, unsure why. I think it came up really well. I'll follow it up this post with the for sale photos in due course.

Quick wash

Some of the scratches on the roof I dealt with, they were all over the roof, sister had no idea what they were from

The above scratch all done and out in no time

Check these scratches out, very deep, I thought there would be no chance of getting them out.

Scratches be gone

This pad was pretty old, but I pushed it too far in my rushing.

I also polished the headlights using scholl S3 and a green pad, then Scholl S20 on a blue pad.

Lustre as the potion of choice, less is more with Lustre.

Paint done and looking good enough, new owner will wash it with a sponge no doubt. My sister actually did an exceptional job at looking after this car, for someone who doesn't really care about cars

T3rminator · 20-11-2023, 08:50 PM

Nice results. Doesn't seem overly exey either. How much product is needed to say, do the roof? With the s20 stuff.

**DFB FGXR6** · 20-11-2023, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Ok, I don't usually do this as it takes a lot of time and i'm not sure how helpful it actually is for people. I'm going to keep it brief and if people would like more detail about something, then let me know. I wanted to do more pictures but I simply didn't have the time.

Also, props to DFB, I don't think people realise how much work he put into replying to people and providing the information he does. He is a world of knowledge and should be commended for how detailed his posts are.

After the quick correction I washed the car again, before using Nova Lustre spray wax. I usually dont wash after a correction, I'll usually wipe it down with Clarity, but the S20 was super dusty this time, unsure why. I think it came up really well. I'll follow it up this post with the for sale photos in due course.

Check these scratches out, very deep, I thought there would be no chance of getting them out.
image

Scratches be gone
image

image

How old is the bottle of Scholl S20? The last time I used S20, it was a pain to use with high dusting and a sticky wipe off. That was from an older bottle, so I'm wondering if some of the solvent or similar has evaporated and altered the chemistry? It has sort of put me off the product to be honest.

When I spotted those scratches on the door, I thought those weren't coming out, but wow, they did! Well done.

As for the roof, they look like some sort of animal has been on there at some point, a car or possum perhaps, they certainly look like claw marks.

Lastly, it's no problem at all for people to ask questions, either here, in my thread or via PM. Yes, it's a lot of work, but also very satisfying. It also takes my mind away from the bullsh.t of the world and sh.tty people. All I ask is a few photos of the end result from time to time.

raised by monkeys · 21-11-2023, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

I also polished the headlights using scholl S3 and a green pad, then Scholl S20 on a blue pad.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2pgJv8j]

tips on polishing headlights, please

**fordomatic** · 21-11-2023, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raised by monkeys

tips on polishing headlights, please

Hey mate, DFB may have a different process, but here is mine. Generally headlights just need a buff with a good cutting compound, after that they need to be sealed as you remove some of the UV protectant coating from buffing. I always use a ceramic coat to do this. I've heard you can use a spray wax, but you would need to keep up with maintenance otherwise it will fade again. Not a huge isssue as buffing only takes 5 minutes to do it again.

The long way, the way I do AU and BA/BF headlights is more time consuming. The Ford headlights UV coating degrades, when looking closely at the headlight you'll be able to see the protective coating diminishing and wearing away. In order to fix that properly, that whole coating needs to be sanded off. I start with 600 wet and dry and then progress up to 2000. You'll be able to see when the coating slowly comes off.

Always keep the headlight wet and work in one direction for sanding, not circular. After 2000, I hit it with a cutting compound to get out the sanding marks, for off the shelf shop bought, Meguires Ultimate Compound is excellent for this (awesome for paint correction as well). Always make sure when doing headlights or tail lights that you don't let the plastic get too hot or you will melt it. Then, it needs to be protected again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by T3rminator

Nice results. Doesn't seem overly exey either. How much product is needed to say, do the roof? With the s20 stuff.

To do the roof you don't need much, maybe 10ml. S20 isn't a harsh cutting compound when used with medium pad, it will remove bugger all clear coat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

How old is the bottle of Scholl S20? The last time I used S20, it was a pain to use with high dusting and a sticky wipe off. That was from an older bottle, so I'm wondering if some of the solvent or similar has evaporated and altered the chemistry? It has sort of put me off the product to be honest.

When I spotted those scratches on the door, I thought those weren't coming out, but wow, they did! Well done.

As for the roof, they look like some sort of animal has been on there at some point, a car or possum perhaps, they certainly look like claw marks.

Lastly, it's no problem at all for people to ask questions, either here, in my thread or via PM. Yes, it's a lot of work, but also very satisfying. It also takes my mind away from the bullsh.t of the world and sh.tty people. All I ask is a few photos of the end result from time to time.

Hey mate, I had a look at the bottle and it was made in 2021, so i'd say you are right, it's probably past it's used by date. What have you been using in place of S20? I'm generally always doing older cars that are pretty flogged so use S20, The Last Cut and S30 the most.

The roof seemed like someone had put boxes on it and then pulled them off, they were very uniform scratches, weird. I couldn't believe the door scratches came out, they failed the nail test and were very deep. If it was Ford paint, no way it would have come out, just would have softened the edges to make it look less obvious.

Also, have you had experience with this pad? https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ant=1328024912
Some detailers absolutely rave about it and the results they get with it. I bought two and have tried it multiple times and I just find the foam too dense to work with and it won't move with the panel changes at all, and the results with it aren't as expected when testing combos for a correction.

raised by monkeys · 21-11-2023, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Hey mate, DFB may have a different process, but here is mine. Generally headlights just need a buff with a good cutting compound, after that they need to be sealed as you remove some of the UV protectant coating from buffing. I always use a ceramic coat to do this. I've heard you can use a spray wax, but you would need to keep up with maintenance otherwise it will fade again. Not a huge isssue as buffing only takes 5 minutes to do it again.

The long way, the way I do AU and BA/BF headlights is more time consuming. The Ford headlights UV coating degrades, when looking closely at the headlight you'll be able to see the protective coating diminishing and wearing away. In order to fix that properly, that whole coating needs to be sanded off. I start with 600 wet and dry and then progress up to 2000. You'll be able to see when the coating slowly comes off.

Always keep the headlight wet and work in one direction for sanding, not circular. After 2000, I hit it with a cutting compound to get out the sanding marks, for off the shelf shop bought, Meguires Ultimate Compound is excellent for this (awesome for paint correction as well). Always make sure when doing headlights or tail lights that you don't let the plastic get too hot or you will melt it. Then, it needs to be protected again.

Cheers. yes you can see the BA/BF/Territory lenses look like theres pitting almost. I used previously the meguiers headlight restore, which is 4 wet/dry and a sealant, but the sealant wears pretty quickly.

**DFB FGXR6** · 21-11-2023, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raised by monkeys

tips on polishing headlights, please

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Hey mate, DFB may have a different process, but here is mine. Generally headlights just need a buff with a good cutting compound, after that they need to be sealed as you remove some of the UV protectant coating from buffing. I always use a ceramic coat to do this. I've heard you can use a spray wax, but you would need to keep up with maintenance otherwise it will fade again. Not a huge isssue as buffing only takes 5 minutes to do it again.

The long way, the way I do AU and BA/BF headlights is more time consuming. The Ford headlights UV coating degrades, when looking closely at the headlight you'll be able to see the protective coating diminishing and wearing away. In order to fix that properly, that whole coating needs to be sanded off. I start with 600 wet and dry and then progress up to 2000. You'll be able to see when the coating slowly comes off.

Always keep the headlight wet and work in one direction for sanding, not circular. After 2000, I hit it with a cutting compound to get out the sanding marks, for off the shelf shop bought, Meguires Ultimate Compound is excellent for this (awesome for paint correction as well). Always make sure when doing headlights or tail lights that you don't let the plastic get too hot or you will melt it. Then, it needs to be protected again.

As per fordomatic, a medium to heavy cut polishing compound on an appropriate pad should have minor to moderate UV damage looking much better.

Personally, I have never progressed to wet sanding, but if the lenses are pitted, you really need to go this route.

The problem with either action is the removal of the UV coating applied at the factory. You will get a certain number of polishings before that is removed, while a single sanding will take it off. The thing is, if you are seeing UV damage, you really have no choice but to polish/sand them or replace the headlights entirely. You then need to follow up with a sealant, clear coat or apply clear PPF film to slow down or stop the UV damage appearing. Without that coating or PPF, the damage WILL return, it's a matter of how fast.

The one thing I have noticed with UV headlight damage is that cars with a more vertical surface to the headlight design will degrade much quicker than a more upright design. The below Subaru headlights are a classic case of that -

The above and below are some of the headlights I have polished with a medium pad and polish compound -

These are two excellent videos on the subject -

**DFB FGXR6** · 21-11-2023, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Hey mate, I had a look at the bottle and it was made in 2021, so i'd say you are right, it's probably past it's used by date. What have you been using in place of S20? I'm generally always doing older cars that are pretty flogged so use S20, The Last Cut and S30 the most.

Also, have you had experience with this pad? https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ant=1328024912
Some detailers absolutely rave about it and the results they get with it. I bought two and have tried it multiple times and I just find the foam too dense to work with and it won't move with the panel changes at all, and the results with it aren't as expected when testing combos for a correction.

I've been using Sonax Perfect Finish, which is probably not as strong as S20 but still considered a one-step compound. Perfect Finish can be used for heavier cutting with a more aggressive pad or used for finishing with a softer pad. It's about the same or slightly less dusty than S20, although it can be a bit grabby on the wipe off, which I use Eraser to cut through it a bit easier.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...12c51bed&_ss=r

I also recently got a bottle of Rupes DA Coarse, which is apparently able to cut well but also finish acceptably. It is best used as a two-step though. I also bought The Last Cut after your recommendations but wanted to try the Rupes due, DA Fine and DA Course.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...32113755422809
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...32113755291737

As for the Scholl Universal Blue Spider Pad, I haven't had any experience with it. Like you, I have heard its good, but like most things, I guess pads are subjective too.

**fordomatic** · 21-11-2023, 08:03 PM

Here is a few iphone photos that I used for the sale ad, also the link below to the Carsales ad.
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/det...e-ad-16269555/

**DFB FGXR6** · 21-11-2023, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Here is a few iphone photos that I used for the sale ad, also the link below to the Carsales ad.
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/det...e-ad-16269555/

image

image

image

image

image

No no no, you screwed that up! The images on the Carsales Ad are too clear and legible. Also, you didn't leave all of the owner's crap on the floor, cupholders and door pockets. And where are the photos of random switches, knobs and buttons. The car is also clean, inside and out. Not good enough!

Seriously though, that is how you present a car for sale! Clear, in focus images in the correct orientation, all being relevant in depicting the car from every angle. The description is short and to the point, rather than the bullsh.t auto generated rubbish that spends more time telling the buyer about random facts or the dealers close family secrets.

stannoplan · 22-11-2023, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

As per fordomatic, a medium to heavy cut polishing compound on an appropriate pad should have minor to moderate UV damage looking much better.

Personally, I have never progressed to wet sanding, but if the lenses are pitted, you really need to go this route.

Headlights are a bit tricky, always take it slow and you will be ok.

I always use wet and dry paper now, what works for me are some basic rules: tape off everything, creep up on the paper grades, i normally start at 2000, or 2500, it might take 60 seconds longer but its safer, keep it wet and sand until no more yellow comes off. Finish with 3000. If you do that step well yu can polish with a fine polish like Essence, S20/30 and it will look great. Its messy but quicker I find.

**FTE217** · 22-11-2023, 09:46 AM

Sensational work on the Subby fordo looks damn good !
Been MIA but glad to see the main contributers are still going strong and inspiring all incl me.
Looking forward to get stuck into a few jobs to do this weekend.

prydey · 22-11-2023, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

No no no, you screwed that up! The images on the Carsales Ad are too clear and legible. Also, you didn't leave all of the owner's crap on the floor, cupholders and door pockets. And where are the photos of random switches, knobs and buttons. The car is also clean, inside and out. Not good enough!

If the car matches the description, as in correct year, model etc then it's an epic fail.

Obviously we jest but how frustrating is it browsing for cars... Dealers are often the worst offenders with incorrect models etc. in the title.

**fordomatic** · 22-11-2023, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FTE217

Sensational work on the Subby fordo looks damn good !
Been MIA but glad to see the main contributers are still going strong and inspiring all incl me.
Looking forward to get stuck into a few jobs to do this weekend.

Thanks mate. I've got my Waxit order coming in soon, i'm looking forward to sorting the sportsman properly over the Christmas break.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

No no no, you screwed that up! The images on the Carsales Ad are too clear and legible. Also, you didn't leave all of the owner's crap on the floor, cupholders and door pockets. And where are the photos of random switches, knobs and buttons. The car is also clean, inside and out. Not good enough!

Seriously though, that is how you present a car for sale! Clear, in focus images in the correct orientation, all being relevant in depicting the car from every angle. The description is short and to the point, rather than the bullsh.t auto generated rubbish that spends more time telling the buyer about random facts or the dealers close family secrets.

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

If the car matches the description, as in correct year, model etc then it's an epic fail.

Obviously we jest but how frustrating is it browsing for cars... Dealers are often the worst offenders with incorrect models etc. in the title.

Thanks fellas, I agree, it's also got worse than it used to be. People that put up 5 photos say if someone is interested they'll send them more. Why not just post plenty that show the car and then people can actually see what it's like. Same as the generic carsales word picture that everyone uses, drives me crazy, just tell me a tiny bit of info so I don't have to call you and waste your time.

EDIT: Also dealers blatantly lying in the word picture, that drives me crazy as well.

**DFB FGXR6** · 22-11-2023, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Thanks fellas, I agree, it's also got worse than it used to be. People that put up 5 photos say if someone is interested they'll send them more. Why not just post plenty that show the car and then people can actually see what it's like. Same as the generic carsales word picture that everyone uses, drives me crazy, just tell me a tiny bit of info so I don't have to call you and waste your time.

EDIT: Also dealers blatantly lying in the word picture, that drives me crazy as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

If the car matches the description, as in correct year, model etc then it's an epic fail.

Obviously we jest but how frustrating is it browsing for cars... Dealers are often the worst offenders with incorrect models etc. in the title.

I will also mention that dealers calling paint "duco" gets up my nose too. There has been no such thing as Duco since the 1970's. There's a geriatric guy in town who runs a used car yard, every ad has the words "Duco" and "T-Bar Automatic" in it. When was the last time a car had a bloody T-Bar?

CyberWasp · 22-11-2023, 07:57 PM

Come on Guys, you all know your car will sell quicker and you will get more for it, if it looks like this inside.

**fordomatic** · 23-11-2023, 08:35 PM

Got my Waxit order this afternoon.

**DFB FGXR6** · 23-11-2023, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Got my Waxit order this afternoon.

image

Have you used Descale and CeriGlass before?

**fordomatic** · 23-11-2023, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Have you used Descale and CeriGlass before?

I haven't, this is the first time. I usually use a heavy cutting compound for glass.

Keen to see how descale goes at reviving the Nova Evo.

**DFB FGXR6** · 23-11-2023, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

I haven't, this is the first time. I usually use a heavy cutting compound for glass.

Keen to see how descale goes at reviving the Nova Evo.

Make sure you watch a few video's on CeriGlass first, its very effective but has some challenges. It's very messy to use, and owing to the extremely abrasive nature, you have to be very careful removing residue from painted surfaces. I would actually lay down towels where possible. And taping of rubber trim is not optional. For wipe off, you will need plenty of towels on hand, along with either water and/or a prep spray.

Descale is brilliant.