Need Help 5spd Conversion On Ed

gngtho · 15-08-2006, 07:10 PM

Hi fellow ed owners or other.

I am currently about to undergo a conversion from auto to manual on my ed,

i have purchashed the box pedal box cluth cable nuts and bolts fly wheel and so on. Its the full set up.

My question is are there any hidden nasty's i should be watching out for when time comes to shove the five speed in, and are there any tips you could give me to avoid a disaster.

This conversion will be taking place at the end of next week.

Thank you all.

banarcus · 15-08-2006, 08:49 PM

Yep one nasty that I found out was dont underestimate the weight of the flywheel as I dropped mine on my finger when the thing was behind my head under the car. It also hurts when you underestimate the weight of the gearbox and drop it. Ouch!

Seriously the fair dinkum hardest part of the conversion is swapping the pedal boxes. Everything else is easy.

mr scotto · 15-08-2006, 09:01 PM

the only tip i have is to do it in 2 stages.set up the pedal box first,then the gear box.make sure you have all of the fiddley bits first-spigot bearing,correct leath fly wheel bolts ect

oneredED · 15-08-2006, 09:57 PM

Yeah, as mr scotto said, make sure you have EVERYTHING. Spigot bearing, thrust bearing etc. One thing i didnt have was the attachment brackets for the clutch cables(damper thing on the clutch fork and the one inside the cabin) but i had the luxury of easily being able to fabricate them.

The top most bellhousing bolts can be a pain if you dont have 3 or 4 feet of socket extensions. It helps to drop the weight of the box onto the engine mounts...

I cant think of much else....

Jared.

hppsc · 15-08-2006, 10:01 PM

the screw that goes into the steering rack and holds the clutch cable in place..

RG · 15-08-2006, 10:03 PM

The manual ECU and wiring.

XRated · 16-08-2006, 12:42 AM

Make sure you put the clutch fork in properly

oneredED · 16-08-2006, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by some fag

the screw that goes into the steering rack and holds the clutch cable in place...

Pffft, zip-ties fix everything ;)

Make sure with the clutch you get the thrust bearing attached to the clutch-fork correctly. Also, make sure you have the friction plate (i still have no idea what it's called; the disc part of the clutch, inside the pressure plate) correctly orientated. It may appear the same but one side of it (the part into which the input shaft slides) protrudes further out than the other...

Remove your entire exhaust up to the manifold (cat included). It makes getting to the bellhousing bolts on the right hand side alot easier... The starter motor bolts can also be a bit of a pain, but a 1/4" ratchet and socket extension should do the trick.

Umm, the torque converter is FAR heavier than it looks when it's above your head on the hoist... found that out the hard way! And dont trust mates to help you hold up your auto as you're guiding it back out from under the car, they tend to drop small stuff, like say like an entire auto transmission, on your feet...

Quote:

The manual ECU and wiring.

Just earth the starter inhibitor relay if you want to start it, it should run fine (mine started and drove fine first go) with just that done and it takes all of 3 minutes. A multi-meter and some solder and a couple of hours should have everything else (reverse lights etc) sorted if you dont have the things GreenEL mentioned . Thats not to say the manual computer isnt going to run things better, but if you get stuck, you can still have your car running and driving fine with all the necessary lights etc...

hppsc · 16-08-2006, 03:01 PM

When i did my conversion in the ED, i used the auto computer, and still am (until my Manual ECU comes tomorrow).

All i did was unplug the ISC (on top of the throttle body) and adjusted the idle with the screw on the side of the throttle body.

ED's don't have thermo's, so the ECU can't put them on 24/7 cos it thinks the auto is overheating.

oneredED · 16-08-2006, 03:06 PM

Quote:

All i did was unplug the ISC (on top of the throttle body) and adjusted the idle with the screw on the side of the throttle body.

ED's don't have thermo's, so the ECU can't put them on 24/7 cos it thinks the auto is overheating.

I still dont know why you had to unplug the ISC mate, mine runs fine. How did you manage to start it though without disabling the starter "lockout" or whatever it is that happens when the car thinks it's not in park or neutral? Mine wouldnt start until I earthed a wire from the relay to the body...

hppsc · 16-08-2006, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oneredED

I still dont know why you had to unplug the ISC mate, mine runs fine. How did you manage to start it though without disabling the starter "lockout" or whatever it is that happens when the car thinks it's not in park or neutral? Mine wouldnt start until I earthed a wire from the relay to the body...

The EA gearbox loom is different to the loom on the ED. So when you plug the ea loom from gearbox into the ED body loom, nothing works until you short out the starter.

I made a custom loom using the AUTO gearbox loom, with neutral switch, reverse lights, and speedo sender wires. Now, she starts in neutral, has reverse lights, and speedo works..

oneredED · 16-08-2006, 03:45 PM

Oh ok, I remember that mine had the EA loom now. Speedo sender loom was same and plugged straight up, but I didnt want the neutral switch (safety reasons, so you can move the car using the starter motor if stranded) so I just figured out the reverse lights for the time being...

hppsc · 16-08-2006, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oneredED

Oh ok, I remember that mine had the EA loom now. Speedo sender loom was same and plugged straight up, but I didnt want the neutral switch (safety reasons, so you can move the car using the starter motor if stranded) so I just figured out the reverse lights for the time being...

Yeah, I'll end up earthing the starter inhibitor one day. When i can be bothered :P

gngtho · 16-08-2006, 05:05 PM

Thanks heaps, what about the tailshaft can i mdify mine or do i need one from a manual?

efgiar · 16-08-2006, 05:25 PM

urs should go straight in IIRC, mine did. u should also invest in a mal wood pedal pin kit, saves 5 hours of work and its only 100 bucks, and they are STRONGER then a ford pedal box. www.malwoodauto.com.au i think the link is, give them a call

gngtho · 17-08-2006, 05:57 PM

Would'nt it be easier to buy the ea trans computer the one inside the dash, i heard that plugs straight in.

efgiar · 17-08-2006, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gngtho

Would'nt it be easier to buy the ea trans computer the one inside the dash, i heard that plugs straight in.

trans computer? what for? ea's didnt have trans computers, and u can run the manual with an ea auto ecu fine. the pedal pin kit is to save u 5 hours of work removing and reinstalled the dash and it makes the conversion alot quicker

falconkid · 17-08-2006, 07:52 PM

what exactly is the pin kit

naughtyfalcon · 17-08-2006, 08:13 PM

the 4 speed ea's do have a transmission control module,it's the 3 speeds that don't.

gngtho · 17-08-2006, 09:10 PM

Don't worry about the five hours work that is down pact as i have unistaled the dash on many occassions and have got that down to half hour each way, the only thing i hav'nt done is a manual conversion on theese cars, thanks for the info it's been helpfull.