whats the best cam for an ebII, and will i get much out of it?

[x-chaser]

hey guys i got an eb II 4.0 and want to put a cam in it, but i dont no anyone with a eb who has done it and not really sure if it worth it.Will I get much more power out of it and are they hard to fit.

[mcflux]

Many people have fitted an aftermarket cam in their 4.0 in the E-Series section. But asking what cam is the best to put in is like asking how long is a piece of string...

A cam is just one component in your driveline setup, and it's generally a good combination of parts which work well together that make a car run really strong.

Is your car manual or auto?
Have you got a modified exhaust system?
Any work done to the head?
What diff ratio and do you have a stally? (assuming auto). If so, how high before it flashes?
Is it manual or auto?
Do you have an aftermarket chip or full aftermarket ECU/fuelling system?

I'm assuming your 4.0 is a stock auto unit at this point in time, but naming cams for the inline sixes is not my forte. At least you guys can swap cams with ease :P

-Dave-

[EDIT] here's an article outlining the requirements for swapping cams... http://www.deleted link/portal/kb.php?mode=article&k=25

[XRated]

They're easy to fit if you have some decent tools.

There are a plethora of aftermarket cams to suit the I6 - from baby ones through to big lumpy cams. Some to suit autos, some to suit manuals. Billets and regrinds are available... You just have to choose a cam to suit your needs. Once you get to a certain size you will need to run heavy duty springs and a reprogrammable chip.

I have one of the smallest aftermarket cams available and it stuffs around with fuel economy, but gives a substantial power improvement from 2,800 - 5,000 rpms.

By the way, there are plenty of threads on this very topic if you do a search.

[eb91xr6]

simple to fit i think all u need it a size 7mm, 10mm, 13mm sokets and a 17or19 mm spanner, cable tie, and a broom stick, dont need decent tools, i do mine with a cordless drill, can change a cam in 30 mins

[SwarvJarv]

im gettin a wade 1636, which will go in without any troubles, all i need to do is add some shims, other cams will require stronger valve springs, and then others will need headwork, injectors, and a programmed chip ect.. to even run propery.....

mine is a stock 3.9lt MPI 5 speed manual....
with tri-y headers and 2.1/2" system..
so im getting the 1636 cause it will go straight in.....

im buildin a head here which will get a wade 977 cam in it....
but it will need/have stronger vavle springs, portmatching, stainless valves, injectors, the zorst system, fuel reg, fuelpump, aftermarket ECU and Programmed chip to run it all......thats if i dont just get out an get an AU donk....

[Kayden]

Cams depend very heavily on what exactly you want.
I'm currently running a stage 2 Crow cam - Stats -

Power band is from 1000 - 3800 RPM
Mild performance cam EA-ED suit std computer. Improved exhaust recommended.

This has been a great cam, significant power upgrade.

However now it's time to step things up a little (following brake and suspension upgrades) so I'm jumping up to a stage 5.

Power band is from 1800 - 5500 RPM
Performance cam needs computer re calibration

You have to find something to specifically suit your car, and how you want to drive.

Crows site is
http://www.crowcams.com.au/templates...A-AU-OHC.shtml

That's the page with the E series cams.

[x-chaser]

anyone

[BLKPHN]

wade 1004-112

[peyote]

i'll second the vote for a wade 1636
good midrange power,powerband seems to kick in at about 2000-3500rpm
wade cams are in oakleigh there very helpful with the tech stuff
$120 for a regrind (change over they require your old cam)fordmods.com price
$110 deposit if you have not removed your old cam which you get back when you take your old one back.
you'll also need shims (usually 12)

it'll also help getting some extra mods for the cam to work to it's full potential.
extractors
2 1/2inch mandrel bent sports exhaust with high flow cat
better cold air intake & k&n air filter

[mcflux]

Originally Posted by x-chaser

anyone

did you read our replies?

[Rollin]

Surecam custom grind FTW.

Give them a ring and see what they can do for you.

And I reckon get a cam thats slightly larger than what you think you will want, that way you won't 'outgrow' it as quickly as usual and if you end up thinking it is too big you can always go smaller and someone will be wanting to upgrade, so you won't loose too much cash.

[gthofan]

firstly, what do you want to achieve by getting a new cam?? all profiles suit different purposes

[x-chaser]

i am after a bit of power i guess, its a auto and has extractors and exhaustand. a nice idle would be good too

[x-chaser]

im still trying to work aout how all this forum works so bare with with guys sorry.

[mcflux]

It's all good mate. Figure out what other mods you want (stally? manual conversion? tickford head? turbo? LPG? etc etc) and then get back to us regarding choice of cam to suit your setup.

As I said, a cam is just one component, having all your components well-matched is important. No point having a massively cammy motor if you have a 3.08 diff and stock stall for example.

[RG]

Wade do some nice cams but you will need to either use your own cam (time with car off the road) or get another cam (better option try wreckers or i've got an EL one you can have for $20). The 1636 seems to be good or one of the 1004's, 1004 110 is too lumpy for an auto so eithe rthe 112 or 114 would be the go. Wade is probably one of the cheapest options too.

[x-chaser]

ok ill calle m today thanks

[x-chaser]

thats was going to say ill call wade cams today and have a chat with them