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Old 10-02-2008, 10:06 AM   #1
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Default Quick question Removing door trim

Its Sunday morning and I've started to replace the actuator in my AU today.I have unscrewed and removed all the bits (side screws, power window pod and handle surround. It feels 'lose' from the bottom and side but is still 'firm' at the top.

How do you pull it off for the last bit?

Uncle Ken

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Old 10-02-2008, 10:17 AM   #2
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle_Ken
Its Sunday morning and I've started to replace the actuator in my AU today.I have unscrewed and removed all the bits (side screws, power window pod and handle surround. It feels 'lose' from the bottom and side but is still 'firm' at the top.

How do you pull it off for the last bit?

Uncle Ken
AND its the driver door

UK
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Old 10-02-2008, 10:29 AM   #3
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Im guessing its the clips up top which are cliped in,you should be able to push the door trim up,give it a push up and pull door trim towards you.
Clips are quite firm and will pop out.

That was my experience with the doors anyhow :-p
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Old 10-02-2008, 10:44 AM   #4
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How many clips are at the top?
UK
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Old 10-02-2008, 10:46 AM   #5
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Don't pull too hard just enough to get it away from the door. You'll have to lower it slightly to unscrew the door lock button thingy (technical term )

EDIT: there are 3-4 clips (from memory)
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Old 10-02-2008, 10:48 AM   #6
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When you take out the power window switch there is a 10mm bolt inside the door trim.

It also helps if you remove the black plastic triangle from just above the door trim behind the mirror.
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:04 AM   #7
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Thanks Guys. I'm taking pics whilst I do this for a tech guide.
UK
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:16 AM   #8
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Dont forget to unplug the mirror switch before pulling to hard
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Old 10-02-2008, 11:19 AM   #9
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there is another 10mm bolt under that round plastic cover 2/3rds of the way towards the front too iirc
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:07 PM   #10
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Default

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Originally Posted by Racecraft
there is another 10mm bolt under that round plastic cover 2/3rds of the way towards the front too iirc
Ta got taht one now

UK
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Old 10-02-2008, 03:23 PM   #11
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Question

How's it going Ken?

GK
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Old 10-02-2008, 03:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by GK
How's it going Ken?

GK
Well I've just written up a tech guide on how to remove the door trim.
(but I don't know how to share the PDF).

The sad news is the actuator seems fine so I will do the passengers door next.

UK
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Old 10-02-2008, 03:48 PM   #13
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Hopefully it went well for you! My first 2 times doing it, I was fine.

Then I attempted it a few weeks ago after work while I was sick on my donor car -result: stuffed door trim and I broke the speaker grill!

To this day I still don't know how I managed to not undo the 10mm bolts that I knew about!
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Old 10-02-2008, 04:30 PM   #14
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Wink AUII door trim removal

I have done a quick write up on to remove door trim on an AUII.
Let me know if I left something out or the steps are in the wrong order

http://www.fordforums.com.au/attachm...chmentid=39943

UK :
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:16 PM   #15
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Default Ahh still wont lock

Bugger what a day. Took off all 4 door actuators and no broken spindles and they all move in out when I hit the button.

The car doors still won't lock.

What next? What have I missed?

UK
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Old 11-02-2008, 03:21 PM   #16
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That's weird .... the only other thing that I can think of is that the car thinks a door is ope and won't lock ... it doesn't need to be a broken spindle for this to happen ... all actuators tell the BEM is the door is closed. If the BEM thinks a door is open ... it will let you know by sounding the horn and unlocing the doors again.

So you still may have a stuffed actuator and not know it.

I am presuming you have the Fairmont ... does it have a ficture of all doors and tells you which one is ajar??/ Or do you just have a door ajar icon like the lower series???

If you have the latter it is going to make it harder to diagnose ... if you have the high series one though ... sit in the car with all doors properly ... and see if the ico tells you which door is open on the car ... that will be a dead giveaway to which actuator is stuffed.

Hope this helps for now.
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Old 11-02-2008, 06:16 PM   #17
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Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k
That's weird .... the only other thing that I can think of is that the car thinks a door is ope and won't lock ... it doesn't need to be a broken spindle for this to happen ... all actuators tell the BEM is the door is closed. If the BEM thinks a door is open ... it will let you know by sounding the horn and unlocing the doors again.

Thats the noise mine makes UK

So you still may have a stuffed actuator and not know it.

I am presuming you have the Fairmont ... does it have a ficture of all doors and tells you which one is ajar??/ Or do you just have a door ajar icon like the lower series???

No its a standard AUII with door ajar icon. Bugger.

If you have the latter it is going to make it harder to diagnose ... if you have the high series one though ... sit in the car with all doors properly ... and see if the ico tells you which door is open on the car ... that will be a dead giveaway to which actuator is stuffed.

Hope this helps for now.
I am going to put back the front locks on Saturday (lucky I don't need the car mid week) and see what happens then.

UK
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Old 11-02-2008, 07:20 PM   #18
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Wonder if it would throw a code back to the BEM ... it may tell you which door .... although I am grabbing at straws here now.

I don't have a list of codes though ... Ford should be able to tell you ... but God knows how much they will charge you.

Although seeing as you are now well versed with pulling door trims off ... I guess you could try trial and error.

In the end though ... you may have a faulty BEM as well. Hopefully though it is a rogue actuator.
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Old 11-02-2008, 08:22 PM   #19
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Try disconnecting each actuator completely one at a time and then locking with the remote. I drove around for about 2 weeks without the drivers side actuator plugged in and the other doors would lock/unlock fine with the remote. All I had to do was use the key to open the drivers side.

If you do this, you should be able to tell which one is acting up.

Hope this helps
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Old 16-02-2008, 04:27 PM   #20
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Ok its netx saterday and all actuators now back on and doors are shut. If I take out hte keys and a door is ajar shoiuld this show up in te cluster (low series)

UK
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Old 16-02-2008, 04:36 PM   #21
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by JMO
Try disconnecting each actuator completely one at a time and then locking with the remote. I drove around for about 2 weeks without the drivers side actuator plugged in and the other doors would lock/unlock fine with the remote. All I had to do was use the key to open the drivers side.

If you do this, you should be able to tell which one is acting up.

Hope this helps
Tried disconecting one by one and same horn ta ta ta and the doors lock/unlock
each time

UK
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Old 16-02-2008, 05:01 PM   #22
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Going to try something now. Going to pull out the cluster and unplug plug the cables ot see if that makes any difference.UK
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Old 16-02-2008, 07:47 PM   #23
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Ahh, All working now!! Finally. Having taken off, disconected and repalced everythng unpluging and re pluging the cluster did the trick.

UK

Some pics tomorrow of more plastic surgery for my AUII
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Old 23-02-2008, 11:49 AM   #24
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle_Ken
Ahh, All working now!! Finally. Having taken off, disconected and repalced everythng unpluging and re pluging the cluster did the trick.

UK

Some pics tomorrow of more plastic surgery for my AUII
Pics are online here, windows still working one week later

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthr...33#post1997633
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:21 PM   #25
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Hi All,

I m new to the forums, and I some dramas in replacing the actuator on the rear right door of our a ford au station wagon. I got the door panel off, but I just could not remove the rod(long piece that attaches to the innner door) Any ideas or where i can get a step by step pdf document? Cheers
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:28 PM   #26
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for the door trim, there's a bolt under the power window buttons which got me, once thats out and everything is disconnected, power windows and mirrors, pull the trim from the bottom towards you (not too much) and smack with your hand upwards and it should come out of the clips from the top.
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:30 PM   #27
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the ford i have is the forte, so there is no power windows. Should I take out the old actuator first and the long wire(rod) will come out easier?
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Old 06-03-2008, 04:45 PM   #28
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Quote:
the ford i have is a really, really old forte, so there are no power windows.
fixed.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:23 AM   #29
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All fixed. Only cost me $66 for the actuator from the wreckers.
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