Damn Overheating

[Barossa Red AU3]

Temp gauge shoots up from 'O' to 'L' In about 5-10 Seconds When the engine is beeing reved. If your in top gear your can drive it at on the speed limiter and the temp wont move, but slow down and drop back to 3rd and hold speed temp shoots up until you back off then its down in a couple of seconds.

I can replicate this Fault with the car in nuetral and hold the revs at about 4000 rpm and about ten seconds, then the temp will move up to 'M' - 'L' in about 2 Seconds.

this has only hapend since servicing the cooling system about 6 weeks ago,

All up ive changed coolant, top & bottom hoses, high flow thermotsat, pressure cap, removed radiator and flushed, blown out radiator & A/C condensor with compressed air while radiator removed, checked both fans on full speed,

And none of these things have made any difference, Help Needed?

[GK]

Originally Posted by Barossa Red AU3

Temp gauge shoots up from 'O' to 'L' In about 5-10 Seconds When the engine is beeing reved. If your in top gear your can drive it at on the speed limiter and the temp wont move, but slow down and drop back to 3rd and hold speed temp shoots up until you back off then its down in a couple of seconds.

I can replicate this Fault with the car in nuetral and hold the revs at about 4000 rpm and about ten seconds, then the temp will move up to 'M' - 'L' in about 2 Seconds.

this has only hapend since servicing the cooling system about 6 weeks ago,

All up ive changed coolant, top & bottom hoses, high flow thermotsat, pressure cap, removed radiator and flushed, blown out radiator & A/C condensor with compressed air while radiator removed, checked both fans on full speed,

And none of these things have made any difference, Help Needed?

Sounds electrical then. What about the temp sensor on the back of the engine? Maybe it's on the way out? It could have a bad connection.

GK

[howesy]

try putting a regular flow low temp thermostat in it. If there is not enough restriction the water at the higher revs can possibly flow through too quickly and not be cooled properly as it passes through the radiator too quickly.

This principle is why the aussie desert cooler triple bypass radiators run cooler the idea is the water is forced to circulate around the rad. instead of taking the shortest route back to the block.

For less than $20 for a thermostat and gasket you got nothin to lose, give it a shot.

Also check the header tank for turbulence and try to ascertain if if the water pump is work efficiently as you rev it. bit hard with a header tank but see how you go.

[JC]

I reckon it's thermostat related as well.

Just one question - where exactly are you hitting the speed limiter. And don't give us any of this "private road" horse crap. If you are doing that on a public road, you are an absolute moron. If on a racetrack, or driver training facility, then no worries, but you should make that clear when you post stuff like that - believe it or not, but hooning and general driving stupidity (or at least admitting to those things) is NOT tolerated on this site.

[Pinkbits]

Originally Posted by Barossa Red AU3

Temp gauge shoots up from 'O' to 'L' In about 5-10 Seconds When the engine is beeing reved. If your in top gear your can drive it at on the speed limiter and the temp wont move, but slow down and drop back to 3rd and hold speed temp shoots up until you back off then its down in a couple of seconds.

I can replicate this Fault with the car in nuetral and hold the revs at about 4000 rpm and about ten seconds, then the temp will move up to 'M' - 'L' in about 2 Seconds.

this has only hapend since servicing the cooling system about 6 weeks ago,

All up ive changed coolant, top & bottom hoses, high flow thermotsat, pressure cap, removed radiator and flushed, blown out radiator & A/C condensor with compressed air while radiator removed, checked both fans on full speed,

And none of these things have made any difference, Help Needed?

You mentioned all the above, but did you bleed the cooling system once you filled it? Possible air-lock.

[Barossa Red AU3]

I thought of air lock as well and ive drained and refilled it 3 times to try and rule that out, making sure i run it until the thermostat open and purges out the air.

you can see the coolant going into the header tank from the bleed tube as my header tank is nice and clean. I just cant work out how this fault is only replicated with revs not engine load, maybee it is the coolant temp sensor seems wierd though.

[InfernoSR]

The harder you rev, the more water flows due to the spinning if the water pump... i believe it to be the thermostat.

[Barossa Red AU3]

Thats a good point, but why did it do it with the original ford thermostat and the Tridon high flow,

Why dont the AU's run the double acting thermostat like all the previos models that prevents massive amount of bypass to flow back around into the water pump, this is my next thery.

when at normal cruise speed and revs the amount of coolant that circulates through the radiator compared to the amount that go through the bypass hose, Is still sufficiant to keep the temp happy, But then at higher revs the coolant chooses the path of least resistance and to much is bypassed not letting the radiator get rid of the heat.

I,m no expert just trying to work through the problem Logicaly, And Appreciate everybodys Ideas as my own have not worked so far.

[InfernoSR]

You make a pretty tidy case... and from my dealings, the AU should have the "Double Acting" thermostat... I'll have to do some research for you...

[bodes-sh]

mine has a 'double acting' one, and i have no temp issues at all, dunno if this is why, but they are not recommended for lpg, i have that too and have had no problems in 6 months...temp gets between n and o and stays there all the time, unless the temp outside is cooler then it drops, i have a 92c thermo in it, checked this via the dash diagnostic mode

[atec77]

Originally Posted by Barossa Red AU3

Temp gauge shoots up from 'O' to 'L' In about 5-10 Seconds When the engine is beeing reved. If your in top gear your can drive it at on the speed limiter and the temp wont move, but slow down and drop back to 3rd and hold speed temp shoots up until you back off then its down in a couple of seconds.

I can replicate this Fault with the car in nuetral and hold the revs at about 4000 rpm and about ten seconds, then the temp will move up to 'M' - 'L' in about 2 Seconds.

this has only hapend since servicing the cooling system about 6 weeks ago,

All up ive changed coolant, top & bottom hoses, high flow thermotsat, pressure cap, removed radiator and flushed, blown out radiator & A/C condensor with compressed air while radiator removed, checked both fans on full speed,

And none of these things have made any difference, Help Needed?

you need as mechanical gauge to be sure it is not electrical
if it isn;t then it sounds like either the rad is crook or the pump is cavitating .