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#1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria
Posts: 659
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Hi everyone,
Coming up to 100,000km. Looking to get feedback and what I should do and I’ll be making a shopping list and getting my mechanic to do it. Please use Ford OEM parts as I get good pricing so unless the aftermarket is way better I’ll be sticking with OEM. Brakes will most likely get changed and I’m still on factory rotors so I’ll probably replace those and get the fluid done as I think I’m still on factory brake fluid… Also bear in mind it’s also 10 years old so any age related parts I’d like to replace as well. I’m not sure if I should put this on the Mondeo or Focus thread as people in the Mondeo thread appear to have better knowledge of the engine. Please direct me mods if it’s better to put in Focus and then have Mondeo people comment.
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2020.25 Focus SA ST-Line Wagon + DAP 2011 Focus LW Trend (Diesel) [sold] 2006 Territory SY Ghia (AWD) |
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#2 | ||
Mad Scientist!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,840
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Timing Belt/Water pump and orings while apart.
Gates Kit with all parts, i've seen, is quite resonably priced. $350 |
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#3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria
Posts: 659
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Is the part number for the kit TCK1603?
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2020.25 Focus SA ST-Line Wagon + DAP 2011 Focus LW Trend (Diesel) [sold] 2006 Territory SY Ghia (AWD) |
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#4 | ||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
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Essentially, you'd be following the Maintenance Schedule in the book.
In addition to above, if you were going to keep it for a long time: Tensioner, idlers and the like... Intake manifold clean, gaskets for the 2.0L are $30 odd dollars. EGR Valve Clean Inspect shocks for leaks Remove and clean the intake ducting and intercooler Renew the Silicon hose sections on the turbo and intake sections Inspect Engine/Trans Mounts Trans flush?!? Fuel Filter? Brake pedal feel soft? Could do the outer flexible rubber hoses if they're cheap.
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Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] |
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#5 | ||
Mad Scientist!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,840
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#6 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria
Posts: 659
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Quote:
Sorry to be a pain but I could only find one place that actually has this in stock and it was eBay item # 263899417048. Any reason why these are hard to find or do I need to call up some shops? If that's the only one then I'll get it.
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2020.25 Focus SA ST-Line Wagon + DAP 2011 Focus LW Trend (Diesel) [sold] 2006 Territory SY Ghia (AWD) |
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#7 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria
Posts: 659
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Quote:
Trans fluid and filter was done at 82,157. Fuel filter done at 80,841 Will see what my mechanic says about engine mounts. Intake manifold and clean I will consider. I have checked the book and added the items mentioned to my list. As ivorya mentioned the gates kit covers quite a bit.
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2020.25 Focus SA ST-Line Wagon + DAP 2011 Focus LW Trend (Diesel) [sold] 2006 Territory SY Ghia (AWD) |
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#8 | |||
Mad Scientist!
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,840
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Quote:
https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/ga...-kit-k015672xs I get most of my gear from here. This is showing the kit without the water pump. During office hours a chat box comes up. May need to chat and ask about the kit with the pump. Also, Check with ford what OEM parts would be for you purchase. They may be around the same price Also, make sure your mecahnic replaces the seals when replacing these parts. I think it's the front main seal. Need clarification though. https://fordforums.com.au/vbportal/v...articleid=1718 Last edited by ivorya; 28-09-2021 at 10:01 PM. |
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#9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria
Posts: 659
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I've sent my quote request to Ford today so we'll see how we go.
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2020.25 Focus SA ST-Line Wagon + DAP 2011 Focus LW Trend (Diesel) [sold] 2006 Territory SY Ghia (AWD) |
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#10 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 35
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Hey @stefcio007
since you're in Melbourne based on what your location says, save yourself a tonne of money and forget the ford service dealership - trust me! I work for Ford Head office for 25 + years and the dealership model is simple. Margins. There's a father and son workshop in Glenroy that specialises in Mondeo's and these guys worked for the OEM Ford Delaers for years before going out on their own! Free advise - the rest is up to you! |
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#11 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria
Posts: 659
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Quote:
I’m going to an independent mechanic not dealership. Glenroy is close to me so I’ll consider it. I get Ford parts ~30% of RRP so most of the time it’s cheaper than aftermarket.
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2020.25 Focus SA ST-Line Wagon + DAP 2011 Focus LW Trend (Diesel) [sold] 2006 Territory SY Ghia (AWD) |
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#12 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 47
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Quote:
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#13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Victoria
Posts: 659
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For the curious here is the quote.
They are closed because of lock down which sucks because you need to be verified in person and they don't offer click and collect. PartsInvoice_011021_redacted.pdf
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2020.25 Focus SA ST-Line Wagon + DAP 2011 Focus LW Trend (Diesel) [sold] 2006 Territory SY Ghia (AWD) |
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#14 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dubbo, formerly Canberra
Posts: 342
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This thread is quite fortuitous timing, as I have the 10-year service due for my car too - delayed a bit as I've gone back and forth over whether to attempt the timing belt myself. Since having young children means that attempting major DIY will likely be a drawn out undertaking, and also that I won't be able to go for long without the car, the sane choice would seem to be to defer to getting a shop to do it.
I do intend to keep the vehicle for a long time to come, so cobrin's list of recommendations is very appreciated. Though I would still like to DIY some of it if feasible and of the rest I want to be mindful of adding anything that's going to be too expensive. To wit: Is this expected to be a major job? My Haynes manual says that the inlet manifold is integral to the cylinder cover, and refitting after removal requires a complete new set of high-pressure fuel pipes and priming and bleeding the fuel system. (I assume proper cleaning entails removal?) Intake ducting - on top of the engine so shouldn't be hard at all. Right? Famous last words? Intercooler - from reading Haynes it doesn't sound too hard, unbolt and remove from underneath. But I haven't looked and I only know the undertray is a pain... What's the access like? I had a bad time changing the cooling hoses on our other car due to being unable to reach and get a proper grip/leverage near the block, and the Barina be much less dense in the engine bay than the Mondy...
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2011 Mondeo MC Titanium TDCi wagon, Panther Black - new Powershift sensor: Nov 2016 Last edited by Mondaveo; 19-11-2021 at 01:53 PM. |
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#15 | |||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
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Quote:
I forget you have a newer model, on mine I had 17 bolts to undo, 3 push on small rubber hoses, three electrical connectors and a hose clamp. It only had 4 profiled seals, and 4 thick orings. All which crushed appropriately on tightening it down. Lets not forget though, I thought I'd get away with reusing the old ones after I cleaned it. But alas I were wrong and had boost leaks (stupido stupido stupido me). So I had to order the seals and do it again. In the end, it took about 10 mins to get the manifold off and fit the new seals/orings. I then removed the rest of the charge ducts elbows and cleaned those and replaced the turbo outlet hose section with new clamps, as one was feeling soft, I've gotten my monies worth out of them for the 10+yrs of service, and renewing them will give me a long future ahead without needing to worry about them. Removing the bottom lip of the front Bar also helps access the Intercooler, plastic privits and a doz screws isn't that bad. I used diesel to swish around and clean up the intercooler. It's not a day or weekend turn around on the cooler, I let it sit for days till I were satisfied it were dry enough to be put back in service. Everything came out the bottom except for the intercooler to intake manifold charge duct and intake manifold. If I had access to a decent air compressor I'd have blown it out, bulk air is king here. IDK, it all flowed on well and didn't really find it hard to do but someone else might, especially if they're not as mechanical and a little apprehensive on working on cars. YMMV is all. I mean most of it is hose clamps and bumper clips/screws so screwdrivers and 1/4" drive socket set and the like. Almost akin to a Mechano set lol.
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Undecided replacement... [SOLD] -2009 MB Mondeo Zetec TDCI- [SOLD] |
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#16 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dubbo, formerly Canberra
Posts: 342
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Just had this service done: timing belt + water pump kit and coolant, fuel filter, engine oil + filter, and general checks.
I sent emails to four local shops asking for advice and a quote on the discussed items. Only saw one reply, fortunately they answered well so that was the shop I went to. As far as the extra cleaning suggested by cobrin, the mechanic told me he cleaned the intake ducting, although the moulding is shaped so well that they don't tend to accumulate much rubbish there. The rest is not really warranted - cleaning the intercooler and hoses is "not necessary", and cleaning the intake manifold would be "very difficult". They said the EGR might warrant cleaning if the intake system is blocking up with soot, but they haven't had to do that on a Mondeo before. All up it seems that ensuring a whistle-clean intake system is a pursuit for the dedicated DIY hobbyist, otherwise as long as things are working it's best left alone. On renewing the hose fittings, I guess something might have been lost in the retelling as they said "We don't usually recommend fitting silicon hoses in place of rubber ones as they suffer more from the oil that goes through the intake system". Anyway, my existing ones are fine so they've left them be. The was one issue uncovered in the service that I'll detail in another thread, but when I got back in the car it felt noticeably different, in a good way. The engine seemed smoother and quieter, a subtle but striking change from the agricultural clatter I didn't know I was used to. And where I've previously become accustomed to a certain level of doughy response, it now seems to just possibly pick up a bit more eagerly? Can't attribute these to placebo, as I wasn't expecting any change but was struck by these differences. So I guess the work did it some good ![]() |
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