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03-10-2011, 09:03 PM | #1 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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I'm about to embark on my next project and turn my ugly 4-tone green slug into a beautiful Go-Green Metallic slug...
Looking for recommendations/feedback about the best medium to be used for the sandblasting - sand/grit, walnut shells, plastic beads, soda. I have a rough idea of cost, and I think it would be money well spent this time around. Pros and cons all appreciated. Thanks Allan 1x Capri V6 20yr project done....finally 1x Capri V6 1mth-rust-fix that took 12mths, then driven for 15yrs, with constant 'little issues' diverting attention/time from real project :angry ... |
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03-10-2011, 10:40 PM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 10,839
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Exactly the same question was asked here a couple of days ago
Where are you based? State in your user profile would be a great start mate |
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04-10-2011, 07:49 PM | #3 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Canberra region
Posts: 352
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05-10-2011, 08:51 PM | #4 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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Location irrelevant - question was about the medium, not the business to perform work.
FWIW - ACT. Found some threads ... ....about using soda blast under a 'Primer' thread ....opinions under an XB Coupe thread and more opinions elsewhere about soda vs sand vs chemical. Looks like no clear answer - various pros and cons mentioned. Thanks anyways......thread closed. |
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05-10-2011, 08:57 PM | #5 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 10,839
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Quote:
FYI it's wise to use the search function before posting a thread |
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06-10-2011, 09:44 PM | #6 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 73
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Hi mate i repair blast gear for a living.If i were ever going to blast a car of mine i would only use PLASTIC media.It will only remove paint it wont remove any metal and wont generate any heat so no damage to even the most delicate panels.Soda will do the same job but most soda guys use water injection so the raw material is wet and will flash rust soda gets into everything inside panels and is so fine you cant get it out.A lot of panel shop i know wont touch cars that have been soda blasted.
A lot depends on what preparation you do to stop media getting inside sills ETC because blasters dont care and no matter what media you use it go everywhere. Garnet/steel grits will all remove metal which can cause warping (not long ago i told this guy doing a xa gt not to blast his roof the way he was doing it.He keep going and ruined it.now its got 1/2 ton of bog in it) I would be rubbing back what panels you can and only be blasting engine bay/door jams and underside. Garnet is good for things like suspension components Cheers CRAIG |
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07-10-2011, 08:05 PM | #7 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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craig - much appreciated info. forgot about plastic beads.
And I need to go bare metal - there are at least five layers of paint on the shell which have caused some interesting reactions with earlier rust repair painting. Goodness only know what paint was used (house paint?) Go bare, then you know what you have got underneath !!! |
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07-10-2011, 08:41 PM | #8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,193
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Good advice from an actual blaster. I'd just do it using paint stripper, yeah it might take longer but you will get fewer complaints from the panel beater and you can basically do it yourself and save some money.
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07-10-2011, 11:19 PM | #9 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Canberra region
Posts: 352
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Allan, have a look at this page: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-stripping.htm (the whole site has some great advice I've found). The most interesting thing mentioned here is Gibbs brand lubricant which can be used to protect bare metal surfaces from oxidation. I've been trying to get some in Oz, but there wasn't a retailer/importer. Searching tonight, it appears there is one now (I have no affiliation with these guys): http://www.gibbsbrandaustralia.com.au/ It's a bit pricey though, but is supposed to be very good. |
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07-10-2011, 11:27 PM | #10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 10,839
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For what its worth when I did my car we stripped all the panels with stripper and only blasted the engine bay, boot, dash and boot channels
For my next car resto I will be blasting 100%. The time spent and paid for using stripper far exceeds the $1200 blast cost At the end of the day you need to find a good operator - and luckily I have found one here in Victoria. If its good enough for show winning Phase 3 XY GTs and XA GTs its good enough for my humble cars Good luck with the resto mate - get your wallet ready for a pounding :( |
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08-10-2011, 09:40 AM | #11 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 73
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You are right if you can a good blaster you should be right. Ask them if they use a regulator and what pressure they blast at. Most blasters go for max pressure (100psi or more ) and try to get the job done as quick as they can.If they do it at around 60psi it will take them longer but less chance of damage. You still want to cover any holes that will let grit in sills or the plenium at the front. Ask them for a roll of blast tape and spent a bit of time preparing.
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08-10-2011, 02:47 PM | #12 | |||
trigger happy
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Victoria
Posts: 149
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Quote:
can save few dollars if you fully prepare the car and doing it yourself gives you more time to do the job right and get good look at the condtion of the panels pre blast.
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08-10-2011, 03:30 PM | #13 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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did the last car via stripper (stinky + residue...phew !!!) and twisted wire cup brush on angle grinder (cheaper and just as fast as chemical).
This time around I thought I would go blasting. Been quoted $1200-1500 depending on how much done e.g outer only, + $ door shuts, +$ underneath, +$ engine bay.....with a 3 day turnaround. I figured something like 20-25hrs to do it by hand, + my time + 'parts' ($200?) Blasting looked very attractive time wise - get in and just get it all done fast. And I'm the panel beater and spray painter, so my strip is my prep for my paint. |
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09-10-2011, 07:10 PM | #14 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Moe town... cheers leski put us on the map!
Posts: 63
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I got my 4 door mk2 escort soda blastered, cost me $700, and he came to my house to do it. He done an amazing job, and didn't use water injection like some people do. i got it done 18 months ago, and there are still a door or two which i haven't primed and the metal hasn't shown any signs of surface rust or anything.
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27-10-2011, 07:41 PM | #15 | ||
State of Confusion
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 86
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I blasted my car with a nasty ebay blaster (use it once and chuck it type thing) in the engine bay and under front guards.
Started using india(?) sand and very fine job, left the metal nice and smooth and sort of like fresh metal. When that ran out I had to buy garnet. Very visible difference; metal was very rough to see and touch and was a lot harsher. I never used it on external panels, underneath only. Based on that I'd pay the extra for the fine sand if you were to abrasive blast it. I had some alloy wheels soda blasted (I think it was dry, never saw any water anywhere in the booth) and was real impressed with the finish. Better than sand, left all the corrosion marks in the rim but took all the paint and other gunk off.
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28-10-2011, 04:43 PM | #16 | ||
Tippy-tronic Free Zone
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 897
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thanks smcka, soda sounds the go.
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