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11-10-2010, 11:15 PM | #1 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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broke my lock nut adapter. how to i get my lock nuts off?
3 suggestions ive had so far; 1. use a drive and hit the nut. this will loosen it and then you should be able to get it off with whats left of the adapter. 2. get a 1/2' drive socket thats to small and belt it on. ruining the socket but should get the lock nut off. 3.weld a bolt to the lock nut and this is possibly the easiest way to get it off. if you have access to a welder |
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11-10-2010, 11:17 PM | #2 | ||
.
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 6,197
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Belt on a smaller socket. Do it with an extension in place.
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11-10-2010, 11:17 PM | #3 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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Quote:
If you have an identifying number on the lock nut adapter you should be able to get another replacement one unless it is broken and still stuck on the nut.
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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11-10-2010, 11:18 PM | #4 | ||
Size it up
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: big blue ball of mostly water
Posts: 591
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Split 'em with a cold chisel or sacrifice 4 cheap sockets and rattle gun
edit: you run the risk of damaging the wheel with the chisel |
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11-10-2010, 11:29 PM | #5 | |||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Quote:
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11-10-2010, 11:31 PM | #6 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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Quote:
Rhys
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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11-10-2010, 11:40 PM | #7 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 474
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You can buy replacements from Ford, I know this as a fact! Get your details and call your local Ford genuine spare parts! Look into doing that before you make any other attempt to remove them!
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****el's drive Rotaries, Four in-line is a waste of time, Six in-a-row just won't go, If you really want something great, drive a great big Ford V8! God made Holden's to keep w*****'s out of Ford's, and yes I'd rather push my Ford than drive a Holden! |
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12-10-2010, 12:07 AM | #8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: jimboomba
Posts: 4,638
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i was gonna suggest drive it ford to get them to do it, but realised your car is in bits atm
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Welder/Fabricator at Beaudesert Exhuast Posted by Xcabbi, Does it slap or rattle? Rattle is more to do with timing chains and tensioners. Slap is more to do with lifters, rings, bearings or GENIII boat anchors |
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12-10-2010, 01:33 AM | #9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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cold chisel, or grind a slot in the end of the nut , big screw driver in the slot and loosen the nut, or find a big socket that is a tight fit over the lock nut, if you have clearance with the wheel, bang it on tight with a hammer(not to tight) , unscrew the nuts with a ratchet, put the socket in a vice use a big screw driver to knock the nut out of the socket ..........do it all again.
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12-10-2010, 08:03 AM | #10 | |||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Quote:
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12-10-2010, 06:50 PM | #11 | ||
Fixing Ford's **** ups
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: In a house
Posts: 4,759
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One single socket will do it. I have gotten numerous locknuts off for customers, using one single REPCO branded socket.
As for the cold chisel method. I'd seriously recommend leaving the cold chisel in the tool box.
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A wheel alignment fixes everything, when it comes to front end issues. This includes any little noises. Please read the manual carefully, as the these manufacturers spent millions of dollars making sure it is perfect.....Now why are there so many problems with my car, when I follow the instructions to the letter?....Answer, majority rules round here Lock me up and throw away the key because I'm a hoon....I got caught doing 59 in a 60 zone |
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12-10-2010, 07:04 PM | #12 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Went to ford. They're ordering me one. $25 well spent
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12-10-2010, 07:22 PM | #13 | ||
Giddy up.
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kramerica Industries.
Posts: 15,637
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That remind's me, I need to get one organised for mine aswell, thank's for reminding me.
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12-10-2010, 08:39 PM | #14 | |||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,703
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Quote:
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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12-10-2010, 08:45 PM | #15 | |||
Next upgraded Mk1 Leopard
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sydney, in the burbs
Posts: 4,913
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Quote:
UK
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Plastic Surgery 1 AUII Monsoon Blue How 2's: Change rear view mirror, Install backfire valve, Change foam front seats, Install auto transmission cooler, Replace Trans Shift Globe, Remove front door Trim, Paint AU headlights, install door spears, Premium Rear Parcel Shelf, go here...
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12-10-2010, 10:28 PM | #16 | ||||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Geelong
Posts: 477
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Quote:
Good to see you have it sorted
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Daily: 2003 BA Fairmont Ghia - Mercury Silver | Sunroof | Tint | XR6T 3.46 LSD Project: 2001 AU II Fairmont Silhouette | Optioned 17" Tickford wheels + Sports suspension | Tint Weekender: 1989 NA II Fairlane - Rosewood | Standard (with functioning SLS!) Quote:
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12-10-2010, 11:11 PM | #17 | ||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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contemplating getting a 2nd a some point in time hey.
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13-10-2010, 03:06 PM | #18 | |||
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 734
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Quote:
I tend to view Tickford lock nuts as sacrificial items put there so the tyre fitters have someting to ***** up with their rattle guns - and to deter the honest theives............ Cheers James |
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13-10-2010, 05:17 PM | #19 | |||
Giddy up.
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kramerica Industries.
Posts: 15,637
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Quote:
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13-10-2010, 05:37 PM | #20 | ||
Afterburner + skids =
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Skidsville
Posts: 12,136
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Genuine Tickford lock nut removerer
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Speed Kills. So buy an AU XR8 and live forever. Oo\===/oO |
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13-10-2010, 07:21 PM | #21 | |||
rexnet
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,562
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Quote:
lol. well said |
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13-10-2010, 08:56 PM | #22 | ||
Feel the boost
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Mount Gambier, SA
Posts: 283
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Well there is an easier way for all. Not sure where or how ya get them, but I have a set of NRMA supplied (i'm a mechanical tradie) lock nut removers. They are basically like a tube with threads that lock on to the nut, kinda the way an easy out does. If ya get the gist of it, very easy to remove the nuts and no damage to anything.
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2005 BA Mk2 XR8 ...... Let the fun begin Drive carefully! Remember, it's not only a car that can be recalled by it's maker. |
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16-10-2010, 10:25 PM | #23 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 474
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Quote:
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****el's drive Rotaries, Four in-line is a waste of time, Six in-a-row just won't go, If you really want something great, drive a great big Ford V8! God made Holden's to keep w*****'s out of Ford's, and yes I'd rather push my Ford than drive a Holden! |
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17-10-2010, 02:55 AM | #24 | |||
Pro Street Au Ute
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Rocky QLD
Posts: 1,150
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Quote:
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06-12-2021, 01:09 PM | #25 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: out of sight from the kids & wife
Posts: 866
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reviving an old thread. I have stripped my lock nut key. bad thing is they sit inside the wheel and can not put a socket over them to remove that way. Try'd welding the key to the nut but restricted as very tight area but kept snapping the welds as couldnt get much on, now ive burned off some of the chrome around the hole. Think the only way im getting it off is to remove the whole hub with the wheel on and drill out the stud from the inside. any one think of a different way. its on there tight. not happy Jan
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06-12-2021, 01:18 PM | #26 | |||
Kicking back
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Western sydney
Posts: 8,689
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Quote:
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06-12-2021, 01:41 PM | #27 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 22,481
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The deep thinwall extractor sockets fit most situations.
An impact driver helps, also leave all other nuts on and fully tight. |
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06-12-2021, 01:51 PM | #28 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,492
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See https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11487631 Though most of the links no longer work and the the irwin Bolt-Grip Link should now be: https://www.amazon.com.au/Irwin-Tool.../dp/B000QW6K8I and https://www.amazon.com.au/Tools-BOLT...id=2S0WG0RTYJ5 and https://www.amazon.com.au/IRWIN-HANS...t%2C388&sr=1-5 the ebay links https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/39370958...UAAOSwoblhl58~ and https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40332439...oAAOSwZdthpEca The Supercheap link in my post there still works. While Bunnings don't list them on their website anymore some stores still seem to carry stock in there tool section and in any event as Irwin retailers they can get them in for you as a special order: any of these https://www.irwin.com/tools/trades/m...olt-extractors including https://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bo...-specialty-set
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regards Blue Last edited by aussiblue; 06-12-2021 at 02:07 PM. |
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06-12-2021, 05:08 PM | #29 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: out of sight from the kids & wife
Posts: 866
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Quote:
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06-12-2021, 05:26 PM | #30 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: out of sight from the kids & wife
Posts: 866
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once i figure out how to post a pic i will put a couple up so you can see what im dealing with lol. wont be till the morning as just about to head to work
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