Dba or stocko?

Growler · 22-08-2006, 03:02 AM

I need to get new front rotors, iv'e heard DBA slotted and cross-drilled rotors are good for the ef (ABS) but some say that they (DBA's) are a waste of money and are more for 'looks' rather than performance. People have also told me that DBA's have a tendancy to crack.

So would you recommend buying stocko rotors or Dba's?

bradcad · 22-08-2006, 07:43 AM

DBA's are an excellent choice- but not cross drilled.
The slotted are an excellent upgrade but even the standard replacement DBA rotors are great, because the cool far more evenly than stock, and have less tendancy to warp....

Simmo · 22-08-2006, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bradcad

DBA's are an excellent choice- but not cross drilled.
The slotted are an excellent upgrade but even the standard replacement DBA rotors are great, because the cool far more evenly than stock, and have less tendancy to warp....

yes and no. DBAs are great rotors, but as said, not the drilled. get slotted's for sure. but don't doubt their ability to warp. i killed a set in about 7 months, but kept driving on them for another 3. i do drive harder than most though.

MrFlibbles · 22-08-2006, 09:36 AM

i would definately go slotted but not cross drilled...
When i used slotted xdrilled on my old Vl Commodore they cracked, used slotted since on the commodore, then on my ford and never had a problem!

bradcad · 22-08-2006, 11:03 AM

simmo, was that on the Kangaroo paw design? Just haven't heard any bad about the new design is all..

and some EBC Greenstuff pads...

Simmo · 22-08-2006, 11:05 AM

nah i couldnt get [still cant get?] the 4000 series on e-series falcons. what i have now and have warped have just been the standard slotted. i got nothing but love for the 4000/5000 series.

and another big up to the greenstuff pads. i warped the original slotteds with bendix advance but the greenstuffs i put on after have been awesome.

EA2BA · 22-08-2006, 11:13 AM

I was reading the catalogue for DBA and you can't get 4000 or 5000 series for an EA :(

If I am wrong can someone please post the part numbers.

Christiaan · 22-08-2006, 11:31 AM

RDA will be fine, and are cheaper.

svo347 · 22-08-2006, 12:19 PM

Used cross drilled n slotted and never had a prob!!

**Sorted** · 22-08-2006, 02:18 PM

Cross Drilled is over kill..........also more holes in a Solid Rotor the less stronger it is......plus the more holes in a Solid Rotor the more points where your pads will be warn down and less grip.....

Just go slotted.........I have RDA Slotted on the Front of my EF with no issues and I do some hard braking everyday as I work in the mountains.....

But apparently if you have ABS sometimes the RDA's can make your ABS light stay on as the ABS ring is not perfect - if this happens tell them to replace them.

Simmo · 22-08-2006, 02:32 PM

i've got RDA standard replacement rotors on the back of mine. they're still fine and the ABS definitely works as tested by the foolish woman who thought you can block an entire lane while your waiting for the traffic to ease in the other one.

RG · 22-08-2006, 04:08 PM

I've got DBA slotted on the front of mine and haven't really had a problem with them. I did warp them about 2 months after I got them but since they've been machined I haven't had the slightest problem with them.

BPXR6T · 22-08-2006, 04:27 PM

I used cross drilled and slotted on my 355 stroker VP. That thing got an absolute belting and I never had a prob. I'll probably just get slotted for the EF. They'll be hiding behind stockies anyhow.

Rollin · 22-08-2006, 07:16 PM

UNR8D, Ignition, OED666 and I all got a full set of drilled and slotted rotors at about the same time a couple of years back.

UNR8D and I went through a set of front discs each in about 20,000km (large cracks going from the center of the disc out to the edge via the holes) and Ignition warped his. (He doesn't try nearly as hard as we do though

) UNR8Ds and my discs were scrap but Ignitions came up good with a machine. I think OED666s discs are going well but have required a machine at some stage.

After that UNR8D and I bought the slotted+kangaroo paw design ones and have had no dramas, using metal king plus pads until I recently needed a new set of pads, when I had to get greenstuff as metal king is no longer available, as far as I can tell. Which sucks because I reckon they are the schiznit.

I have probably done 40,000 on the slotted rotors and IMHO they have another 40,000 in them, no worries, UNR8Ds discs are still going strong as well, even though they are stopping a 1700kg/14.8 second NL fairlane and he absolutely rapes his brakes...

Braking of the DBAs is MUCH improved over stock, they are well worth the extra cash - I couldn't reccomend them highly enough.

Junkz0r · 22-08-2006, 07:39 PM

I bought a pair of RDA slotted rotors for the front...

I haven't put them on yet though.. Need some pads for em..

Bendix are the go i hear?

clevoxc · 22-08-2006, 08:03 PM

Definitely DBA mate. I've been selling them for years and have had very minimal come back for the amount sold. I've also seen a video of their factory and how they are made and they are made to the highest standards. Having said that I have always used them and they are great.

snypereb · 22-08-2006, 08:22 PM

I want dba slotted!!

TIKFD6 · 22-08-2006, 08:55 PM

DBA or RDA.
stock sux

oneredED · 22-08-2006, 09:56 PM

I have DBA slotted's. I need better, but going better goes into the $2k and up price range for what I need, so DBA's it is. Standard rotors put up with ONE large stop on my car before warping and cracking. DBA's lasted about 20 before doing the same, but only those who are VERY HEAVY on brakes will find that problem (frequently braking from 200+)...

EDIT: I forgot to say, go the DBA's, the stock rotors are pathetic, I have driven friends cars with the standard rotors and pads and I think E-series falcons are dangerously underbraked for their weight, so don't buy stocko ones!

EFFalcon · 22-08-2006, 10:01 PM

DBA Slotted's can be had for $100 a side.
i'd deffinately be getting them.

I've got DBA slotted/cross drilled, no complaints.

vegabass · 22-08-2006, 10:50 PM

I have killed some DBA slottered with in 6 months. I do 2 - 3 track days per year which I believe Im harder on them when on the street.

I dont know what to do.

OED666 · 22-08-2006, 11:07 PM

i have x-drilled and slotted, the only reason i had them machined as my pads just wore out... only drove 5k's home on them with 1 stuffed pad..

i have had them purple at qld raceway, and no probs. smashing the brakes on for about 7 laps from 180k's on each main straight

blownba · 22-08-2006, 11:20 PM

Mate what is being said is right. The dba crossdrilled rotors do have a tendancy to stress crack around the holes. They are more cosmetic than anything else thats why you really only see grooved (slotted) and sometimes dimpled rotors on race cars. I am an agent for RDA/ EBC. I have been using these products for years and have had nothing but good results and happy customers. I prefer them over dba cause they're heaps cheaper and heaps better.( this is my opinion. I know some people won't agree) The EBC grooved and dimpled rotors are kick **** but the range for Aussie cars is limited.
The best street combo that is fairly priced is RDA slotted rotors and EBC green stuff pads. I challenge anyone to find a better combo for the same price , for the street, that has the same reliability and performance without the need of upgrading calipers ect. All you need to do is run good brake fluid to keep up with the heat. There is also race pads in the EBC range but I don't think they are appropriate for the street. I only put them in if I hit the track.
The other issue that I have with E series falcons is the calipers dragging. If the pads don't release enough they cause heat spots when driving with foot off the brakes, these heat spots start the pads scalloping out the disc causing thickness variation thus causing brake shudder. So its a good idea to rebuild the calipers every few years so the piston seal is nice and soft and able to release the pads properly. Also make sure your slides are well lubricated with a high quality silicone grease so that they work smoothly. I always lube slides on every car I put pads into.

I love RDA and EBC and swear by them. I've used alot of different products over the years and I feel that for the price RDA/ EBC products are second to none.

Growler · 23-08-2006, 07:40 AM

Wow, thanks guys you are awsome!!

illusivedreams · 23-08-2006, 01:17 PM

Sorry to Dissagree ....

2 sets of RDA slotted and I think they are junk on two different cars.. I would prefer OEM...

Definetly going DBA slotted next timeundefined

EBC Green staff is good

oneredED · 23-08-2006, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OED666

i have x-drilled and slotted, the only reason i had them machined as my pads just wore out... only drove 5k's home on them with 1 stuffed pad..

i have had them purple at qld raceway, and no probs. smashing the brakes on for about 7 laps from 180k's on each main straight

Quote:

Originally Posted by oneredED

Standard rotors put up with ONE large stop on my car before warping and cracking. DBA's lasted about 20 before doing the same, but only those who are VERY HEAVY on brakes will find that problem (frequently braking from 200+)...

Interesting your 'slotted and cross drilled' lasted better than my 'slotted' rotors... What speeds were you dropping down to after braking? My 'slam on the brakes' are (should I say 'were' until the rotors cracked) usually from around 190-220kmh down to around 80-120 (200 down to 100 takes around 2.2 seconds). What pads are you using? Have you inspected closely for hairline cracks? Are they still unwarped?

Actually, come to think of it, my wheels probably aren't the best for heat dissapation :(

PIC: my dba's after a "session"...

Rollin · 23-08-2006, 06:46 PM

Im not sure if I really like the greenstuff pads as much as the metal kings.

It seems the pads have opposing chracteristics - I haven't used the greenstuff on the track, but have gone for a few mountain drives with them in. In comparison to the metal kings, I think the greenstuff have excellent feel and retardation when driving 'normally' - only requiring very light pedal effort to slow the car during light to medium braking, but when asked to work hard the pedal goes hard and the car doesn't seem to want to stop that well.

The metal kings need a good push to slow the car normally, and in light to medium braking they are far inferior to the greenstuff, but when they are asked hard - lapping Morgan Park at 11/10ths for instance - I never got them to fade, and pedal effort doesn't seem to increase that much when everything starts getting hot, as compared to driving normally.

Has anyone else directly compared two sets of pads on the same rotors/vehicle?

OneredED - your post wasn't there when I started typing :P - I can't remember the max speed I get to at Morgan park, but IIRC it was well into if not the top of 4th gear, downhill into the first hairpin, so prob 160 or so with 3.9s? Slowing to maybe 60km/h, short accel into top of third, then another hairpin, etc...many hard stops together from a slightly lower speed, rather than just one or two from huge speed.

oneredED · 23-08-2006, 08:11 PM

Quote:

OneredED - your post wasn't there when I started typing - I can't remember the max speed I get to at Morgan park, but IIRC it was well into if not the top of 4th gear, downhill into the first hairpin, so prob 160 or so with 3.9s? Slowing to maybe 60km/h, short accel into top of third, then another hairpin, etc...many hard stops together from a slightly lower speed, rather than just one or two from huge speed.

Ah ok, sounds as if your braking sustained at a quite high temp more consistently, where-as mine is massively heated, then allowed to return to cold (say 2-3 minutes between braking) around 10 times in one session (75 km stage, 26 minutes) which is probably where my problems lay.

Track layout is as follows (brakes wise):
220 down to 170km/h (...then 3 minutes off brakes...) 220 -> 205 (...1 minute...) 220 -> 90 (...4 minutes...) 220 -> 115... etc etc etc...

Rollin · 24-08-2006, 07:15 PM

Man I wanna drive where you are driving!

TUFED6 · 25-08-2006, 09:51 AM

I've always used Metal kings with DBA standard type rotors. Last set of pads I put in were Ultimates and they seem to be OK, come up to temp faster but not quite as good once hot.

Metal Kings can be a bit dodgy before you get them up to temp, but once they're hot they're pretty consistant.

I've used DBA slotted/drilled rotors before and like everyone else they crack before you can get a decent lifespan out of them, and they didn't seem to noticably improve breaking. Never used the plain slotted rotors but that would be my choice for next time.

Remember that the cross drilling is removing available surface area for the pad to clamp onto, so if you don't have a real temp problem probably not worth it.

I'd love a set of Saloon car Cebco brakes for the front but they won't fit over 15in rims so no dice...

- John

View Poll Results: DBA or Stocko Rotors?
DBA Slotted and cross-drilled rotors EF ABS	38	84.44%
Socko EF ABS rotors.	7	15.56%
Voters: 45. You may not vote on this poll