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Old 12-05-2008, 02:38 PM   #1
V8falcons
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Default au timming chain cover removal

Gday
Any one done a AU 4ltr timming chain cover removal for an oil leak repair,my wagon is starting to leak abit/alot between the head and the timming cover and looking at the haines manual,its a radiator,crank pulley,sump,engine mount,alternator a/c compressor off/out job.
:togo: :togo: :togo:

Surly its not that in depth is it.????????????

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Old 12-05-2008, 03:05 PM   #2
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Dunno man.mine leaks as well.I am going to try and wing it.Degreaser and then silicone the leaking area..
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stav
Dunno man.mine leaks as well.I am going to try and wing it.Degreaser and then silicone the leaking area..
me too,firstly,but mines leaking the most behind the belt tensioner so thats coming out first.
If I have to go to the trouble of pulling all the accessories off,plus the sump,and radiator and unbolt the engine mounts,I may as well remove the engine and do every seal with it on the stand. 240k engine is it worth doing?????????
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:39 PM   #4
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Nar man dont go to far.I fixed mine.Remove the belt,steeing pump ..do the correct procedure to remove the tensioner then chuck thread locker with silicone on the threads.It will fixit.
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vctxr6ute
me too,firstly,but mines leaking the most behind the belt tensioner so thats coming out first.
If I have to go to the trouble of pulling all the accessories off,plus the sump,and radiator and unbolt the engine mounts,I may as well remove the engine and do every seal with it on the stand. 240k engine is it worth doing?????????
i was thinking along those lines, i found the idler pulley bolt leaking a little did a remove and refit on the weekend but still tempted to do the works and the front seal on the auto while its out as well.
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:29 PM   #6
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most just leak from the timing cover bolts so if ya just remove em one at a time clean them up and refit them with some sealant on the threads im pretty sure youl be fine hey ill fixed heaps of them doing this also check the chain tension bolt as well they also leak as does the front crank seal...its pretty rare for the actual gasket to be replaced....
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Old 13-05-2008, 11:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stav
Nar man dont go to far.I fixed mine.Remove the belt,steeing pump ..do the correct procedure to remove the tensioner then chuck thread locker with silicone on the threads.It will fixit.
Try this first ... trust me.

It might just be your tensioner on the side of the engine.
I makes it look like it leaks from around the front ... it makes a hell of a mess and hard to find the leak usually.

I went on Stav's advice ages ago for this and it sorted it ... fingers crossed it is the same for you.
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Old 13-05-2008, 12:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k
Try this first ... trust me.

It might just be your tensioner on the side of the engine.
I makes it look like it leaks from around the front ... it makes a hell of a mess and hard to find the leak usually.

I went on Stav's advice ages ago for this and it sorted it ... fingers crossed it is the same for you.
yep,will certainly give that a go first.

thank you
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:46 PM   #9
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ok,Ive gotten to the stage now ,I cant stand the site of oil every where under the bonnet,I removed all the tensioner bolts,even the power steer braket bolts and resealed them no difference,the leak seams to be worse on the a/c side of the unders side of the head,but when I start the thing and stick my head over the area,Im gettting flicked with oil,so Im thinking the front main is flicking it up and on the the belt and disbursing it everwhere under the bonnet.

I bought the timing cover seal kit,$11.95 which includes the front main seal,so at this stage every thing is coming out on Thursday.
Ive got a manual radiator to replace the auto item and am going for the external only trans cooler whilst its out as well.

I am concerned however with the lower timing chain guide as apparently these can fall into the sump when removing the cover as well as the locater dowels,any one got any ideas to make this not happen for me????? Its looking like a big job and Im not really looking forward to doing it the more I read and look into it.
If I can get a mechanic to do it for less than $200 than the jobs his,if not,Im still contemplating pulling the engine and fitting a low k (60k engine for $300). and rebuild this engine latter on in my spare time............
any ideas would be appreciated
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Old 09-06-2008, 12:23 AM   #10
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Mate ..I degreased mine ..siliconed it and its been fine. Fixing these probs can be a can of darn worms..
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Old 09-06-2008, 10:34 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vctxr6ute
If I can get a mechanic to do it for less than $200 than the jobs his,if not,Im still contemplating pulling the engine and fitting a low k (60k engine for $300). and rebuild this engine latter on in my spare time............
any ideas would be appreciated
its a pretty big job ive done a few if ya not 100% id take the (60k engine option) pretty straight forward just swapping the engine over.....
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Old 13-06-2008, 04:59 PM   #12
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ahhhhhhhhh,Ive just finished attempting to fix my oil leak(all day),Ive done today front main oil seal(fairly lengthy job),replaced the radiator as it had a slight leak ,fitted an external trans cooler..aaaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnddddddddd d i+ts still leaking,but now its all clean I can see where the oil leaks are coming from now the power steering bracket/screws which I have already removed and resealed,it looks like another day sorting that out tomorrow.....

Really accomplished nothing today : : :

if its still leaking tommorrow arvo,im ripping the engine out..........
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Old 15-08-2008, 03:23 PM   #13
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Just wondering how you got one with your leaks.
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Old 15-08-2008, 05:51 PM   #14
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yeh mate all sorted ,was just a mater of tightening the bolts really tight with a bit of thread sealant hasnt been a problem since
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Old 25-08-2008, 09:34 PM   #15
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Man what did it take to remove the timing case? I have a newfound leak..:( It is behind where the harmonc balancer is.
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Old 26-08-2008, 05:30 PM   #16
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Hi All.
On the subject of oil leaks, I have one from the Tensioner Plug. In your experience, is this likely to be just a new o'ring on the plug, or would I need to go to the extent of getting deeper into the tensioner? Any risks in unscrewing this plug on it's own?

Shane.
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Old 26-08-2008, 05:59 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stav
Man what did it take to remove the timing case? I have a newfound leak..:( It is behind where the harmonc balancer is.
stav

probly just the front main seal not an extremely hard job,pull the radiator/thermos,harmonic balancer,and pry the seal out, replace and grease it up every thing back togeather took me no more than 2 hrs.

You need a good puller though.

Its fun isnt it!!!!
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Old 26-08-2008, 07:54 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by vctxr6ute
stav

probly just the front main seal not an extremely hard job,pull the radiator/thermos,harmonic balancer,and pry the seal out, replace and grease it up every thing back togeather took me no more than 2 hrs.

You need a good puller though.

Its fun isnt it!!!!
So you have done like this before>Or did you remove the case to do it?
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Old 26-08-2008, 07:58 PM   #19
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what grease did you use?
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Old 26-08-2008, 08:50 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by vctxr6ute
stav



Its fun isnt it!!!!
Its a barell of laughs!!! I am learning about new parts I never knew before from all the dead and dying components..hehe

The car has hit 275000 kms
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Old 26-08-2008, 08:56 PM   #21
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yep,did it on my wagon,any grease is ok I use castrol PD2,or EP2 what ever was in the shed at the time,you just need to lubricate the lips otherwise they will burn/wear prematurely.You need to push the seal back in using the the crank bolt and spacer other wise its abit testing trying to get it started and square.

Are you sure its the front main seal though stav,mine turned out after doing all this to be the timming cover mount screws up the top and the oil was spitting/running down on to the timming casing making it look like it was the front main!!!!!!
If you have your doubts do it any way as I said not a major job in my books anyway.

Ha Ha yeh,mine is about to click over to 250k this week, and I think I better do the fuel pump,as she's missing abit on idle on fuel for a while on gas its fine
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Old 26-08-2008, 09:07 PM   #22
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I wish it was my timing case.Yep my first leak was my front power steering bolt and it needed alot of silicone to stop it. Next leak..loose timing case bolt.

Tommorow I may have a quick look behind my belt tensioner to see if there is a leak at the timing case. I had the head reinstalled at a dodgey wrecking yard which compromised the engine.It has little leaks which I am sealing slowly.If the car stops...then Il fix it.For now I hate the oil on my driveway.Not much but enough to make my steciling look ugly.

What spacer did you use man?
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Old 27-08-2008, 07:22 AM   #23
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It was about a 60mm 3/4 drive socket,it works perfectly with a long bolt in the from of the crank,dont forget to emery/sand/rough up the groove in the crank from the original oil seal.
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Old 27-08-2008, 08:59 AM   #24
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I went to fix what I thought was a leaking timing chain tensioner the other day. On the way I found out that a workshop I used to trust had completely stripped the thread on the timing case where the lowest bolt shown goes. Oil was running out when I took the power steering bracket off.





It's the one with all the copper RTV around it BTW! Does anyone know if there is enough metal in the timing case to put a Helicoil in?
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Old 27-08-2008, 11:16 AM   #25
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sly,yep thats the same bolt mine was leaking(one of the times anyway) your drilling into the block there not the case/alluminiun cover if you use a helicoil yes you can do it but DONT drill too far in as you'll drill into to no 1 cyl bore.
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Old 27-08-2008, 12:55 PM   #26
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Thats where mine leakt. When bolting it in it strips the thread alright.I would be defensive to helicoil as there may be a chance of dropping something into the engine wont it?
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Old 27-08-2008, 04:15 PM   #27
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So if it won't seal properly I'll need a new block... any other options?
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Old 27-08-2008, 05:21 PM   #28
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So if it won't seal properly I'll need a new block... any other options?
err no you repair the thread,replace the timming cover gasket,and seals and o-ring for the chain tensioner.
A little trick I did with where your bolt is leaking is put an o-ring on the bolt with silicone. after you've repaired the thread that is
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Old 19-11-2013, 06:32 PM   #29
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Default Re: au timming chain cover removal

Hi everyone. Put 60 k/km engine in au, got massive oil leaks! 2 litres in 2 weeks, barely driving also! Just when it gets up top, gonna do the clean, silicone, tensioner o rings, thread locker, I was playing around with old engine today, is it fine, to lock un lock cam tensioner with finger? Mine fits, lol does it sit on the last step not fully removed, in correct position? Why can't you remove outer thread nut without locking full ninety degree as in full lock position, new engine w.a.p.i.t.***! thanks, are not fords fun, like there aren't better ways to enjoy life!
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Old 19-11-2013, 07:23 PM   #30
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Default Re: au timming chain cover removal

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11336109

Also I think Whoosha did a photo essay when he did his son's AU - I can't find it. Use the advanced search function.

Doesn't look like a pleasant job, but then what is these days?

Cheers!
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