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The Pub For General Automotive Related Talk |
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#1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,630
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Hi everyone
Asking here because it’s about more than one area. Got a ba fairmont ghia with reversing sensors and was wondering how you’d disable them when trailer or vans on, there’s a 7 pin flat and a 12 pin flat that has the cutout switch for the sensors but don’t think there’s a 7 pin round with that cut out switch. With wiring the vans fridge on 12v they usually have another circuit just to power the fridge only and another one through the battery isolator to charge up the house battery through a grey anderson plug. The van fridge years and years back they just ran the power through pin 2 on trailer plug but now days it’s not rated heavy enough so they usually have power through a second anderson plug (usually black or a different colour to the charging one) so you can’t plug it in wrong plugs, or they use the heavier pins in a 12 pin flat trailer plug to power the fridge and the grey anderson plug to charge batteries. What would you’s go with if you got a car with reverse sensor or you want to be able to switch between cars camera and vans camera when you plug the trailer plug in. What’s the maximum size wire that fits in the normal pins and the heavier pins on the 12 pin trailer plug. Can you buy things that you crimp a wire onto like a battery lug that has a pin that you insert into a pin on trailer plug like a wire that you insert and screw down and ifso what sizes can you get. Something like this https://goo.gl/images/mvA6Sm but goes on a trailer wire or 8 b&s wire for fridge. Thanks for any help |
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#2 | |||
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 3,618
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Quote:
Billy. PS..run 10mm between my battery's and isolator! |
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#3 | ||
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 3,618
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#4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,252
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Sounds like a job for a 'good' auto electrician?
Too many sensors, plugs, vans, caravans, etc etc for me to get my head around at the moment.....LOL!!!! |
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#5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,630
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Been reading up and apparently new vans have 12pin and you run fridge through that and a anderson to charge or a second anderson for fridge and power esc through 12 pin
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#6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,878
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That would be right about the 12 pin plug supplying fridge power.Be very careful that you use an ignition activated power supply,because caravan fridges draw around 20 amps when working,which will flatten your tow vehicles battery overnight.
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#7 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,630
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So the heavy pins in the 12 pin are ok for van fridge big or small and how do you get 8 b&s cable in the pins can you buy pin ferrules that you crimp onto the wire or can you just trim a couple mm strands off and if you do will it be ok for that cm or 2 difference in thickness
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#8 | ||
BLUE OVAL INC.
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,645
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Theres been a lot of issues with the 12 pin plugs when running chargers and fridges through them and many people are opting to simply seperate the circuits and run anderson plugs for piece of mind.
Try somewhere like the Home of 12v shop at Pooraka for a pre made anderson plug circuit which can be bought to suit the vehicle you drive. I have a BF wagon and i simply told them what i had and they supplied me with a complete kit to install myself with everything required. I also bought a special trailer plug from Autobahn which has a 7 pin flat plug for trailer wiring and a piggybacked anderson plug so it all looks neat and simple. The only other thing you'll need is a Redarc isolator which arent cheap. |
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#10 | ||
Cabover nut
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Onsite Eastcoast
Posts: 10,841
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Probably not such a drama when actually towing but certain Aussie 12v/240v frigs are not CE approved. Which is a pain when parked on 12v.
I found this out when I bought an Engel front door model for a motorhome and it caused me no end of grief with radio / CB radio and TV interference until the penny dropped and had to install a RF blocker ring around the power line. Also had a similar model in a yacht and it caused radio / navigational interference as well when ever the motor would kick in. After much research I found Engel are one of the few who's frigs are not CE approved and are not approved for fitment in boats. As others have said a simple Anderson style plug separate from your other hitch wiring would be the go.
__________________
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#11 | |||
Rob
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Woodcroft S.A.
Posts: 21,551
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Quote:
I did this with my territory. initially I changed to a 7 pin round on the car and disabled the beepers so it didn't beep constantly, but I wanted my beepers back, so I went back to the factory 12 pin and changed my van over to a flat 12 pin. Running a 12v fridge through the 12pin plug (pin 8 I think is aux) is possible if you use 6mm wire (which does just fit in the pins) however if you plan any long drives this could still have the potential to melt your plug. If you only drive up to half a day, then it would probably be ok. As mentioned, most 'vanners run 2 andersons. one for house battery and one for the fridge. |
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#12 | |||
Shockwave
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seaford SA
Posts: 783
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Quote:
Might be rated at 35 amps, but that rating is for the insulator material. IMO, never use auto wire for big power uses, use a voltage drop calculator to get the correct size wiring for the length you are running. Cheers, |
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#13 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 456
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Agree with Blue Bear on not using 6mm auto cable. I would probably use 6B&S as voltage drop can be a problem running fridges. A far as reverse senors. Our vehicle has a switch which I can turn them off, but rarely do.
Warren
__________________
Never argue with an idiot, they will bring you down to their level and beat with experience every time. |
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#14 | |||
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 3,618
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Quote:
From memory B/S cable with hydraulic clamped fittings then run through a protective split spiral cover and cable tied and run through chassis rail. Had absolutely no issues, well worth the money back then, but I was towing a trailer not caravan, my trailer was running 2 x 110amp gel batteries. Never let me down off road or on the blacktop! And the difference between products and labour etc varied by as much as 100%, I will not name the company who was double everyone else, so be very careful, lot of vultures out there, do your homework before committing. Regards Billy. |
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#15 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,878
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If 6mm twin core is too light I would upgrade to 8b&s, 6 b& s would be a bit of an overkill. I actually changed my van wiring from Anderson plug to wiring to the van batteries.While travelling the van battery is getting charged,then when I park I switch the fridge to gas. If I forget( which I haven,t done yet) the fridge is going to flatten the van batteries,not the tow car battery.
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#16 | |||
BLUE OVAL INC.
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,645
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Quote:
I run an anderson for the fridge from the car through a Redarc isolator and have a seperate anderson from the house battery which i can plug my portable solar (180w) or ARKPAK (130ah) into. |
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#17 | ||
Shockwave
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Seaford SA
Posts: 783
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This calculator is simple and easy, just keep in mind it's in feet - not metres.
https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html Also keep in mind that every join in the wiring such as an anderson plug for instance, increases the resistance and therefore making greater voltage loss. My recommendation would be to use the calculator and instead of choosing the minimum recommended, go one higher. Cheers, |
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