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#1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 5
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I think most AU Wagon owners are probably aware that there is an issue with the Fuel Gauge at some point in time. With the recently acquired AU2 Wagon I have the fuel gauge seemed to have a mind of its own. Ford have acknowledged that there is an issue with the sender in the tank and have issued (in the past) a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for this problem.
So, left with that news I had no other option other than to buy a Fuel Pump Module (Assembly) from a local spare parts store, which by the way was cheaper here in Cooma than I could buy in Canberra. I decided to buy it and rather than just replace the sender it would probably be a better idea to replace the whole unit, pump and all. I don't really know how good the old pump is and it looks to be the original unit, but still working ok. I have some photos of the procedure for those interested, I wasn't about to drop the tank from underneath, seeing as I don't have access to a hoist or even a concrete floor to work on, so the other option was to cut a hole in the floor in the rear to make gaining access a lot easier, both now and in the future if needed. All in all it was a fairly easy job, although I can't/don't work to fast these days it still only took about 2 to 3 hours to complete the job. Now for those who don't wish to cut holes in their wagons I hope you have fun dropping the tank and refitting it - but for those who want easy access then check out the photos. I hope that you may find the job of doing a fuel pump unit change as easy as I did. Basic tools are required, Electric/Battery Drill & Drill Bits and a good pair of tin snips, and a hammer and dolly to panel the edges with. You will also need a vacuum cleaner to suck up the metal shavings/cuttings and the dirt & crap, a piece of sheet metal or alloy and some pop rivets (or screws) to install the plate as well as a tube of suitable sealant and some of the original colour spray paint to make it look like a factory job . Looks Good finished and ready for the Next Fuel Pump fitment which will be a breeze . Proceedure: Remove the rear cover strip for the carpet Flip over the carpet from the Left Side Drill some Pilot Holes to start the Snips in and cut away the floor panel BE CAREFUL HERE as you DO NOT want to drill holes into the Fuel Tank Once the section is cut out then everything IS exposed and easy to get at. Removal of the Locking Ring on the top of the pump is a matter of using the Correct Tool Which is easy to make if you are skilful enough OR you can use a Large Flat Blade Screwdriver and a Hammer to tap the tabs on the lock ring till it comes loose and then screw it off by hand Then USE the Vacuum cleaner to remove any and all crap from around the pump top and tank area as you dont want to get all that rubbish into the tank Undo the electrical plug Undo the Clips/clamps on the fuel lines with the appropriate fuel line tool (less than $10 from an auto spares atore) and you are ready for the removal & replacement process Now that wasnt too hard was it ? SO Much easier than dropping the fuel tank. PS You can install a new O Ring for the tank seal I just reused the old one but I did put a little silicon grease on it before installation just to make sure it wouldnt bind on the lock ring No leaks is very important I have had no leaks re-using the old O ring . Cheers, Greg. |
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#2 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 444
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Great way to now make your car un-roadworthy.
Also a good way to have your insurance company wipe any cover you may of had in the event of an accident. Although I see it would be a good idea to have the access hole, the tank is a piece of **** to drop down and is not really needed. Anyone thinking of doing this modification just keep this in mind before you start cutting.
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2003 BA XR6 N/A SEDAN IN ACID RUSH CURRENT MODS: PACEMAKER 4490's, 3 INCH HIGH FLOW CAT, F6 CAI, K&N PANEL FILTER FUTURE MODS: CAT BACK EXHAUST, MAG WHEELS |
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#3 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 124
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Quote:
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#4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Riff
Posts: 12,362
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deleted
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FGII XR6 IN LIGHTNING STRIKE R52 SIII IN GUN METALLIC Last edited by Mont5.0; 05-02-2016 at 09:52 PM. |
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#5 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 11
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I contemplated cutting the floor to gain easy access but I knew this could have repercussions (insurance wise) in the future.
It's not hard to do the right way. 1)Depressurize the fuel system by running the engine and then removing the fuel pump relay from under the hood. The car will burn up any fuel in the lines and stall. 2) Put the rear end on stands (as high as possible) 3) Lower the spare wheel and push it out of the way 4) Open the fuel filler door and remove the earth wire 5) Remove the 2 fuel filler retaining bolts (done from under the car) 6) Place a jack under the tank (with a piece of wood sandwiched between the jack & tank so you don't damage the plastic tank) and support the tank. 7)Undo the 2 bolts for the fuel tank straps and get straps out of the way. 8)Slowly lower the tank until you can see the top of the fuel pump and unplug the electrical connector. 9)Disconnect the 3 fuel line going to the pump. (Easier with fuel line dis-connector tool, approx $15 from Supercheap) 10) Now you can either lower the fuel tank right down and drag it out from under the car for easier access, or leave it on the jack...it's up to you. (Much easier to work on when it's dragged away from the car) but if it's full of fuel might pay to leave it on the jack. 11) Knock the spring retaining ring anticlockwise until it's free (can take some force) 12) Remove and replace fuel pump. (This is also a good time to replace the fuel filter, in front of the diff housing passenger side) Once it's all back together, before you start the car, turn the ignition on to accessories, so you hear the new fuel pump activating, several times before you start the car. This will prime the fuel pump and lines. Enjoy! |
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