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#1 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,262
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I have always found lifting and supporting the front to be a real pain. The last couple of times, I've jacked up under each sill and put an axle stand under the big bolts on the crossmember brace thing behind the main crossmember.
I found a slight variation on that today. If you lift one sill so that a front wheel is just off the ground, then you can (just) get the head of a big trolley jack (mine is 2. something tonne) under the main crossmember. That does make it easier to lift the front and place the axle stands. I put a block of wood between the crossmember and the head of the jack. It also gives you the option of placing the axle stands under the sills, but I try to avoid the sills after slightly damaging one. Sent from my SM-G9208 using Tapatalk
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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#2 | ||
Moderator
![]() Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 7,940
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... Or you could just spend a bit more and buy a low profile racing jack, so you would not have to first jack up one wheel to get the extra clearance needed.
I bought a new 2 tonne racing jack locally for $190, which is not much more than the higher profile ones you normally find at Supercheap. |
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#3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,262
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I already have 2 trolley jacks in the garage ... But yes, that would be an option.
Sent from my SM-G9208 using Tapatalk
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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#4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,530
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For low cars with a deep overhang (like my VL Brocks) I drive up on some 4x2s laid flat, to give enough height for jack access. It's a simple fix that will solve your issue.
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#5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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One risk with hydraulic jacks is loss of fluid pressure.
With Chinese crap, it happens. This risk can be eliminated by using (as I do) a prop or brace between the axle and head of a trolley jack. This is a million times easier than using an axle stand. This means jacking up the car and inserting a prop, made of rectangular box section steel, which is made to fit neatly under the head of the jack and to sit on the axle. The exact length of the prop depends on the work reqired, I use a couple of lengths. As for sill damage I use 3/4 plywood discs. No problem except when I drive off with one stuck on the sill. |
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#6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,262
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Yes, but quite often you need the jack out of the way to do the work, for example when changing the oil.
What happened to cause the sill damage was one of the wheels of the trolley jack became stuck on a small stone. This resulted in the folded edge starting to bend as the jack was raised. I did notice it starting to happen, so there was only minor damage. What diameter are your plywood discs? Sent from my SM-G9208 using Tapatalk
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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#7 | ||
FG XR6 Ute & Sedan
![]() Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Bibra Lake WA
Posts: 23,026
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Hydraulic jack stands are a safer option https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64.../dp/B003ULZGFU
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regards Blue |
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#8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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NZ, I always use two trolley jacks with built in props, these are positioned on the outside so no obstruction under the car.
I increment each jack in turn. Steel props are inserted when the jacks are high enough, then the jacks are lowered onto the props. The props are carefully designed and the end result is a triangle with the trolley jack forming two sides and the steel tube the third. Nowhere to go. Rotating tyres - two jacks with props on one side at a time. Oil change - two at front. Fuel filter - two at rear. Transmision oil - either four jacks with props or lately one jack with car level on three wheels. Plywood discs are 80mm to fit jack head. Blue's link https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64.../dp/B003ULZGFU shows another good idea. From a safety point of view it could be said two devices (separate jack and stand) would require two simultaneous fails, and would on that account be safer. On the other hand the propped hydraulic idea would require properly sectioned steel components to shear or crumple. Not likely with 750kg on 2 ton jack. Incidentally, I bought four Chines trolley jacks at Repco years ago when they were half price. The latest iteration of the same jack has narrower front wheels. 50mm or more wide is good, to my mind. |
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#9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,878
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If you want to work under the car and don,t have to take the wheels off either buy ramps,or even better buy some 200x50 timber and make your own drive on ramps,much safer and probably cheaper than stands,which are not the safest way of holding up a vehicle.
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#10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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Agreed. Ramps probably the quickest and safest way when the wheels don't have to be removed, as for oil change etc.
I have the jack levers at half length, saves space and gives my old muscles a go. |
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#11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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Photo shows prop.
I started cutting the axle end with a holesaw. In hindsight I' weld some angle iron there to spread the load, but have been using it for a few years now without issues. At the other end is a tab made of half a washer, enough to prevent the prop popping out. Might be of interest to DIYers. You would want to be keen though! Last edited by rondeo; 27-01-2018 at 06:23 PM. |
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#12 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,262
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Thanks, I have the same jack. I can see how the bottom works, but what holds the top in place?
Sent from my SM-G9208 using Tapatalk
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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#13 | |||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 8,576
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Quote:
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Be the man your dog thinks you are. |
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#14 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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NZ, there's a tag welded to the prop which fits under the jack head, alternatively the prop is shaped to fit, as on the right in the photo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/r983aq28my...P2183.JPG?dl=0 WARNING: This setup isn't foolproof. The car may be damaged If the jack is lowered when the prop is not engaged in the head of the jack. The bottle jack/axle stand combo looks safer in that respect: https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64.../dp/B003ULZGFU See also: https://safejacks.com/products/the-r...d-by-safe-jack and: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azkT6mL_tDQ Last edited by rondeo; 29-01-2018 at 11:59 AM. |
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