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Old 17-06-2010, 04:51 PM   #1
ST
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Default Has anybody had problems with their AU2/3 remotes dying without any apparent reason?

As the title states, i've recently had both my remotes die without any apparent reason. I made sure all contact points were touching and replaced the batteries on both but they still won't work.

Now I thought maybe the car isn't recognising the remotes anymore or they might need reprogramming but the red led doesn't even go on when I push any of the buttons.

Anybody have a clue what the go is? Seems way too coincidental that both stopped working completely at the same time.

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Old 17-06-2010, 05:00 PM   #2
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mine died today
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Old 17-06-2010, 06:25 PM   #3
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I've never had an AUII/III remote i couldn't repair
and i've done dozens now
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Old 17-06-2010, 07:52 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Mr Hardware
I've never had an AUII/III remote i couldn't repair
and i've done dozens now
Me too. I kind of specialise in fixing them for family and friends. The 3 points that hold the battery cradle to the circuit board tend to break solder. Easy fix is to heat up the solder while holding the cradle down. once cool (about 5 seconds), try it and it will miraculously work.
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Old 17-06-2010, 08:23 PM   #5
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^^What he said, happens all the time.
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Old 17-06-2010, 10:10 PM   #6
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yeah mine is hit and miss....think I might just invest in a new one.

How much do they usually set you back?
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Old 17-06-2010, 10:28 PM   #7
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Very common, as above the 3 points for the battery holder always break. Next thing they do is the buttons don't contact properly. I'm too lazy to fix, so I've got 5 sitting here that I should do something with!
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Old 17-06-2010, 11:02 PM   #8
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My unlock button stopped working. Not surprising considering the crap that came out of it when I pulled it apart.
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Old 17-06-2010, 11:08 PM   #9
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Don't replace the remote - fix it. They are around $75 each, so a free fix is cheaper.

If buttons don't work at all (and you've replaced the battery with a new one......)
1. Pull the remote apart (lever from the indentation on the top/bottom)
2. Remote circuit board section from the rubber buttons, taking note of how the circuit board fitds INTO the rubber button holder thing.
3. Heat up soldering iron, and with the point of the iron, solder the 3 contact points from underneath (they are each a small circle). You shouldn't need any more solder; just re-melting what's there tends to work
4. Before putting it back together, test the buttons without the rubber cover
5. If it works, you're done, if not, see next heading

If you do the above and buttons still don't work, or one doesn't work
1. Clean the small metal buttons with some WD40, metho or CRC (a small amount on a tissue/cloth and wipe over and around the small metal button
2. Before putting it back together, test the buttons without the rubber cover
3. If it works, you're done, if not, REPLACE (there is no thope if these steps don't work).

Put remote back together and test buttons now
1. If one of the buttons doesn't work, pull remote apart.
2. Get a 0.5 to 1mm thick piece of plastic - the small packets of screws you get are bunnings are ideal (you just need the packet, not the screws)
3. Cut a piece of plastic into a rectangle with one slightly angled side to fit inside the rubber button thing
4. Might as well do all the buttons while you're there
5. Reassemble remote, and test.

It should now work without having to put superman like pressure on the buttons.

OK, so now I've given away ALL my secrets.................
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Old 18-06-2010, 05:22 AM   #10
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i have one that the light comes on, so appears to be unfunctional but it wont program to the car. any ideas?
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Old 18-06-2010, 07:34 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
Don't replace the remote - fix it. They are around $75 each, so a free fix is cheaper.

If buttons don't work at all (and you've replaced the battery with a new one......)
1. Pull the remote apart (lever from the indentation on the top/bottom)
2. Remote circuit board section from the rubber buttons, taking note of how the circuit board fitds INTO the rubber button holder thing.
3. Heat up soldering iron, and with the point of the iron, solder the 3 contact points from underneath (they are each a small circle). You shouldn't need any more solder; just re-melting what's there tends to work
4. Before putting it back together, test the buttons without the rubber cover
5. If it works, you're done, if not, see next heading

If you do the above and buttons still don't work, or one doesn't work
1. Clean the small metal buttons with some WD40, metho or CRC (a small amount on a tissue/cloth and wipe over and around the small metal button
2. Before putting it back together, test the buttons without the rubber cover
3. If it works, you're done, if not, REPLACE (there is no thope if these steps don't work).

Put remote back together and test buttons now
1. If one of the buttons doesn't work, pull remote apart.
2. Get a 0.5 to 1mm thick piece of plastic - the small packets of screws you get are bunnings are ideal (you just need the packet, not the screws)
3. Cut a piece of plastic into a rectangle with one slightly angled side to fit inside the rubber button thing
4. Might as well do all the buttons while you're there
5. Reassemble remote, and test.

It should now work without having to put superman like pressure on the buttons.

OK, so now I've given away ALL my secrets.................
i used a fat wad of blue tack stuffed in the void behind the battery and case to hold the contacts down til i got a soldering iron
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Old 18-06-2010, 08:30 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by HLC
i used a fat wad of blue tack stuffed in the void behind the battery and case to hold the contacts down til i got a soldering iron
I use that method on my territory remote because it's got broken battery clips. Blue tack - the McGiver of stationery.
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Old 18-06-2010, 08:51 AM   #13
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3 points?
I only ever see 2.
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Old 18-06-2010, 09:36 AM   #14
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Come on JC you know the drill, go get pictures and do a step by step how to,then it can be added to the list . ..
oh then I may try and fix mine :
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Old 18-06-2010, 10:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
Me too. I kind of specialise in fixing them for family and friends. The 3 points that hold the battery cradle to the circuit board tend to break solder. Easy fix is to heat up the solder while holding the cradle down. once cool (about 5 seconds), try it and it will miraculously work.
So JC, we can send our broken ones to you to have fixed???
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Old 18-06-2010, 11:34 AM   #16
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Hahahaha yeah JC, sounds like you have a little workshop made up especially for this. Thanks for the help, gonna give it a shot now.
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Old 18-06-2010, 04:58 PM   #17
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Come on JC you know the drill, go get pictures and do a step by step how to,then it can be added to the list . ..
oh then I may try and fix mine :
I have an AU1, so send me one of your broken AU2 ones, I'll fix it, take pics, and post the pics up and the remote back!
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Old 18-06-2010, 04:59 PM   #18
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So JC, we can send our broken ones to you to have fixed???
Absolutely. Postage should be about $3 each way, and I charge nothing. Only problem is, I have no way to test if the fix works, unless you post me the car too!
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Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

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Old 18-06-2010, 05:02 PM   #19
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Hahahaha yeah JC, sounds like you have a little workshop made up especially for this. Thanks for the help, gonna give it a shot now.
Please post up results one way or another. In fact, when you do it, if you can take pics of the remote pulled apart (so top section outer casing, bottom outer casing, rubber button bit and then the top and bottom of the circuit board/battery bit, I can incorporate these in a write up for everyone. I did the above going from memory! (So Mr H, it may be 2, but I'm pretty sure it's 3!).
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Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

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Old 18-06-2010, 05:35 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by JC
I have an AU1, so send me one of your broken AU2 ones, I'll fix it, take pics, and post the pics up and the remote back!
Thats the spirit Pm me your address and there on there way or post it here and you have a new full time hobby at $10 each 200000 bogie AU remotes and you could retire in12 months
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Old 18-06-2010, 07:39 PM   #21
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Thats the spirit Pm me your address and there on there way or post it here and you have a new full time hobby at $10 each 200000 bogie AU remotes and you could retire in12 months
PM on it's way. And I can test (at least to get the red light going) them before sending back.
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Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

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Old 18-06-2010, 10:56 PM   #22
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and you have a new full time hobby at $10 each 200000 bogie AU remotes and you could retire in12 months
Then he'll will be able to buy two proper cars, instead of one car and one shoebox on wheels
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Old 19-06-2010, 10:06 AM   #23
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Wow you're generous JC I charge $20 a piece
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Old 19-06-2010, 10:10 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JC
Me too. I kind of specialise in fixing them for family and friends. The 3 points that hold the battery cradle to the circuit board tend to break solder. Easy fix is to heat up the solder while holding the cradle down. once cool (about 5 seconds), try it and it will miraculously work.
I can vouch for that! LOL!

He fixed a couple for me a few Canberra visits ago!

Last visit it was the cluster, trans cooler and front grille!

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Old 20-06-2010, 12:43 AM   #25
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Wow you're generous JC I charge $20 a piece
Probably why I'm still poor!
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb)
1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs).
Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s

Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings

FPV 335 build stats: <click here>

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