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30-09-2015, 03:25 PM | #1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Sth Coast NSW
Posts: 110
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hi everyone. My 2000 model AU XR8 has a crook rear wheel bearing which my son & I are doing at home. Everything pulled down without a problem until it was time to pulley the hub off. It just won't move & we have no idea on how to get it off. We have pullers and are using them to no avail. Please help us if you can,I'm stuck with no car!! George
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02-10-2015, 07:38 PM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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How did you go George ? I haven't touched mine for some years, but from memory mine where pretty stubborn to get off also,
I think a bit of rust around the centre hub was the issue with mine, a bit of CRC or wd40 to loosen it up and a puller and some blows with the big hammer to help jar it loose did the job, don't forget to release the handbrake. |
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03-10-2015, 11:54 AM | #4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Newcastle NSW
Posts: 7,890
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An excellent product for dissolving rust is Rost-off made by Wurth. I think Repco sell it. 10 times faster than wd40 or crc
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03-10-2015, 12:20 PM | #5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
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05-10-2015, 04:32 PM | #6 | ||
CNC fixer guy
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Melbourne Vic
Posts: 609
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Rost-off etc is great, can also try a paint strip gun to expand the hub while pulling, can also squirt some freeze spray on the splined shaft to shrink it, again while under puller tension.
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Weekend Toy: S1 AU Fairlane V8 with LTD bits, Tickford 17" wheels, front and rear chin spoilers, series 2 front brake conversion with Super pro bushes, Pacemaker headers, rear muffler removed, Kings/Pedders lowered suspension, Koni adj rears, painted headlight bezels, HR 2300kg hitch, 2 stage shift kit, trans cooler, reverse cam and media player. Wife unit's : 2010 update FG XR6, reverse cam, HR 2300kg Hitch, German Maestro speakers, parcel shelf sub, trimmed mudflaps, batman stickers. |
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06-10-2015, 02:05 AM | #7 | ||
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Sth Coast NSW
Posts: 110
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Thanks everyone, jobs done! I ended up taking the whole hub assembly to the local steering guy & he pressed out with the old and in with the new bearing and charged me $66. To do the job cost me a total of $165, any idea on what the cost would be for a mechanic workshop would charge???? George
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06-10-2015, 08:06 AM | #8 | |||
Au Falcon = Mr Reliable
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North West Slopes & Plains NSW
Posts: 4,076
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Quote:
cheer's, Maka
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Ford AU Series Magazine Scans Here - www.fordforums.com.au/photos/index.php?cat=2792 Proud owner of a optioned keeper S1 Tickford Falcon AU XR6 VCT - "it's actually a better-balanced car than the XR8, goes almost as hard and uses about two-thirds of the fuel" (Drive.com 2007) |
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06-10-2015, 09:25 AM | #9 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Sth Coast NSW
Posts: 110
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Was that doing the job yourself and $200 in parts & press labour or $200 + parts finished!
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06-10-2015, 09:34 AM | #10 | ||
Au Falcon = Mr Reliable
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: North West Slopes & Plains NSW
Posts: 4,076
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Sorry George, that was with parts supplied by me. I paid $140 for a pair of bearings sourced locally. All up $340, they did all the labour, i'm happy with what they did.
You did good! cheer's, Maka
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Ford AU Series Magazine Scans Here - www.fordforums.com.au/photos/index.php?cat=2792 Proud owner of a optioned keeper S1 Tickford Falcon AU XR6 VCT - "it's actually a better-balanced car than the XR8, goes almost as hard and uses about two-thirds of the fuel" (Drive.com 2007) |
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06-10-2015, 09:38 AM | #11 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Sth Coast NSW
Posts: 110
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I suppose you dont save much these days doing it yourself, I've always told my sons that you have to fix some things yourself!!! Thanks George
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06-10-2015, 10:06 AM | #12 | |||
CNC fixer guy
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Melbourne Vic
Posts: 609
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Quote:
I thought you were stuck trying to pull the hub off the spline of the half shaft, obviously you already had that off, yeah you need a decent press to separate bearing and hub. PS: Too late now, but make sure there are no scores or marks on the hub as the OD of the hub sets the preload on the ID of the bearing. If scored, the new bearing will be loose/fail in no time. Cheers.
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Weekend Toy: S1 AU Fairlane V8 with LTD bits, Tickford 17" wheels, front and rear chin spoilers, series 2 front brake conversion with Super pro bushes, Pacemaker headers, rear muffler removed, Kings/Pedders lowered suspension, Koni adj rears, painted headlight bezels, HR 2300kg hitch, 2 stage shift kit, trans cooler, reverse cam and media player. Wife unit's : 2010 update FG XR6, reverse cam, HR 2300kg Hitch, German Maestro speakers, parcel shelf sub, trimmed mudflaps, batman stickers. |
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06-10-2015, 05:51 PM | #13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 2,009
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This.
Always keep a can Wurth Rost Off Plus in the shed. If you ever see a good price on a hydraulic gear puller on Gumtree, etc, then buy it straight away. Useful gadget. Weighs a ton, though.
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19-10-2015, 11:55 AM | #14 | ||
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 32
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Good pics Phildo, serious looking puller there. Doesn't look like there would be much that could resist that!
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20-12-2016, 05:11 AM | #15 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,874
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What do you use for front rotors where you have a bearing cap instead of the solid centre like on the rear?
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20-12-2016, 11:46 PM | #16 | ||
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21-12-2016, 09:10 PM | #17 | |||
All Bran = Regular Member
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Quote:
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