Snapped Clutch Pedal Cable Brak

Mike86 · 10-03-2019, 01:07 PM

Hi All,

I've done a search and found a number of threads relating to this issue but more to do with a cracked firewall. Nothing really conclusive and no pics for me to compare mine to as most threads were from over 5 years ago. People seem to have been welding plate to reinforce it. However haven't spotted a thread where the cable bracket has snapped also. As you can see in the pics there is also a crack where the cable comes through into the pedal box but I'm wondering wether or not that has actually been there since I bought it. The clutch has always been stiff on this car. I've only had it for 1.5 months.

Basically wondering if there's anything missing from the end of the cable or am I able to get away with replacing the bracket and reconnecting the clutch cable? or is this more involved than I'm thinking. Anyone had much experience with this? Keep in mind in the long term I will replace everything but am looking for fix to get me to work and for the next couple of weeks until I get a reasonable quote to do the whole lot.

The car in question is a 2001 ford falcon AU.

Cheers,

M

Citroënbender · 10-03-2019, 01:53 PM

The bad news is, it's stuffed.

The good news is, it's not my car.

Your firewall has failed, the cable bushing sleeve is loose; this has misaligned, the pedal is cracking its pivot off the pedal box. Plus there's the failed cage you show first.

Why does it happen? Galling on the input bearing retainer (aluminium) is a big contributor. I believe there's an aftermarket Ford Motorsport one with steel tube, which can be made to fit.

At workshop rates, there's probably $1K-ish in an honest repair if the clutch still has life in it.

New cage and bushes can be got from Fleabay, Jefferson Ford usually have them listed. Pedal box has to come out, have the pivot refixed and properly stiffened (5mm plate and TIG welds are good). While the box is out you need to weld or bond a stiffener plate to the firewall, ideally outside. I re-used the bushing sleeve tube carefully brazed into my home-made stiffener as it was already 9/10 loose, and the stiffener I then bonded with industrial urethane - two tek screws held it while the adhesive cured.

Mike86 · 10-03-2019, 03:32 PM

Thanks for the detailed reply! Much appreciated.

I'll have to book it in as I've left all my tools in QLD and am currently in Melbourne. I'm probably not skilled enough to do this repair at home anyway. Especially without a proper garage, plus I don't have a welder either.

Couple of follow up questions. Just for my own curiosity. I can't find a picture of how this setup looks when it is all in order. Just want to get an idea so I can see for myself where the parts go. Does the sleeve generally sit where it is in the picture or does it come forward a lot more? Has the firewall broken from the engine side or is it due to the sleeve flinging back and busting through the interior side of the pedal box?I can't find any metal or parts on the floor so i'm guessing the whole lot has gone through with the sleeve.

Was the estimate you gave inclusive of parts and labour?

Cheers,

M

Citroënbender · 10-03-2019, 06:56 PM

Here’s my repaired firewall. You can see the urethane extruding a bit on the inside, and my replacement cable from FDA.

I made the stiffener using basic tools including a vice, angle grinder and large Dremel style die grinder, hand tools, cordless drill and MAPP torch. With hindsight I would have more carefully cut away the outer flocking, just to the factory inset panel edge. It’s a bit gappy on the right side for my liking.

There’s about 20 minutes each way for the pedal box to remove, after degreasing fully I paid $200 to a (motor) bike frame builder to reinforce and TIG it, came back with a lick of paint on the repairs too. Cable cage $40-ish, cable about $100, aftermarket (non-aluminium) bearing support $150-up. You’ll need a new front shaft insert seal for the replacement part too. Box out time depends greatly on the shop; two quick blokes and the right gear it’s a breeze. Steel to make the reinforcement is scrap bin territory. Hope that sheds a bit more light on it.

Mike86 · 10-03-2019, 07:23 PM

Nice thanks mate! Definitely helped. Will get to it after the long weekend. Cheers.

Edxr6 · 22-03-2019, 09:21 PM

T.I. Performance sell the firewall plates. They look pretty smart and purpose fit. I am treading the day with mine. So far so good. Good luck, have you thought about a hydraulic set up.

Regards

Mike86 · 22-03-2019, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edxr6

T.I. Performance sell the firewall plates. They look pretty smart and purpose fit. I am treading the day with mine. So far so good. Good luck, have you thought about a hydraulic set up.

Regards

Thanks I'll check it out. All I've done so far is replace the bracket which has got me up and running again. After the firewall has been welded I'm going to sell it. It's just too thirsty for the commute I have to do at the moment.