Question RE: Power steering oil line fix on AUII. Photo.

[Baldman]

Hey again guys, forgive me for creating a new thread on this, the old one I was reading up on is about 50 pages back that way and Im covered in oil. I would've dropped it in my other thread but I think the picture will better help others to understand the slightly confusing spot you need to cut at to replace the bolt instead of the entire hose when you spring a leak in your power steering line at the connection end. From what I've heard its a pretty common problem for the seal inside the bolt to blow out and give your alternator an oil bath.

As my other thread states, I had a problem with the power steering line leaking from the connection to the power steering oil box onto the alternator. I read up on the threads on how to fix it but I'm slightly confused as to where exactly I should make the cut to remove the bolt end from the pipe.

As I understand it, the cut needs to be made slowly and carefully here:



As to not damage the pipe underneath. The pipe can then be wrestled out of the bolt and a replacement can be fitted.

Have I found the right spot to make the cut to get at the sirclip or am I way off?

Thanks for any help.

Also what have you found the best place to be to pick up a replacement? Ford dealership?

[EvilChief]

only come as one piece (hose and nut), around $60 to $75 from repco

[Baldman]

oh really? I was reading here that the entire hose setup comes at about $180 and the end can be purchased seperately?

[Jastel]

Thats the right spot, you have to cut the thread through and then the top half (threaded part) will come off. You should be able to see a small circlip, maybe a bit more grinding will be needed to get it out, then the nut part comes off. Make sure pipe is clean, a light sand maybe. Then screw new nut into pump and push pipe into nut.

You can usually do this repair a few times until the pipe actually gets too worn out to seal correctly

Buy the nuts from Ford, about $12 the last one I got, they ARE sold separately, or were as of a couple of months back when I bought a few.
Find another salesman/dealer if they don't know
Hoses were originally very expensive but may have down lately, still not down to $10 but...

Done this repair dozens of times

[Baldman]

Sweet, thanks. Grinded it down and I can see the small brass circlip, having a bugger of a time getting it out and lost the light so I'll have to get it tomorrow.

Yeah, I figured the Ford dealership was the place to go, I'll stop by on the way home and get it sorted.

What do you find the best way to get the circlip off? I've grinded it down so that it is exposed, trying the get a small screwdriver in there to get under it but having a bit of a tough time getting the bastard to let go.

[Jastel]

I have a small picker thing, hold one end still with small screwdriver then pick it out, have someone else hold the thing still helps too
Grind down some more maybe

You have done the hard part (not cutting the pipe in half) LOL

[Baldman]

Yeah, but I did put a very light shine on one part of the pipe . Close call that one.

[philstoj]

Ive done 2 so far and i cut the nut vertically, from top to bottom, making sure not to go all the way through.
Cut one face, then spin it around and cut the other, then hold it with some vise grips and pry it apart with a large screw driver.
When you get the new nut(yes you can purchase it seperatly and dont need to spend 190 odd for the whole line, also when you purchase the line off ford, it does not come with the nut fitting!! you have to buy it seperately!!)
it has the brass circlips inside it so make sure you remove them from the line after cutting the nut off.

[Baldman]

So is the cause of this problem the rubber in the nut blowing out?

[philstoj]

No rubber in the nut, it has an O ring on the outside, there are 2 brass clips in the nut which seat on the pipe and let it spin, they would wear out and thats most likely where the leak comes from.

[Baldman]

You see thats worrying, I heard somewhere that the rubber that seals the connection was inside the nut/part of the nut itself, someone seemingly reputable must have told me because in my mind it seems pretty reliable.

There was no O ring where the pipe joins the nut so Im thinking that was the problem right there. Either way It seems I would have to remove the nut anyway.

In the picture (2nd finger from the top) it looks like there is an O ring but thats just shadow, there is/was nothing there.

[Baldman]

For some reason the edit button is gone so I cant edit my post.

Just got off the phone to the ford dealership and now I know that there is meant to be an O ring between the nut and the pipe, pretty obvious when you look at it and I feel like a total retard for not figuring it out lol.

Anyway, all sorted now, I have the new fitting here and ready to go in as soon as I win my titanic struggle with the circlip then I can get my alternator back in and hopefully get the old girl back on the road by this arvo.

Thanks for all the help guys, wouldn't have been able to do it without you, pretty simple job but I haven't done much in that area before so its been a good lesson.

I'll probably run into another problem when it goes in and be back here with my tail between my legs though. .

[Jastel]

There is an o ring on the thread end of the nut that screws into the pump, (yours could be stuck in the pump still), AND there is an o ring inside the nut, how else does it seal on the pipe?

Either can cause a leak but murphys law says it is usually the internal one.

Might try a vertical cut next time for a change.....

[Baldman]

Yeah all done and fixed no more leaking. I'll go with the vertical cut next time though just for the experience.

I was told by a service tech at the ford dealership near my place that there was an O ring at the end (between the nut and the pipe) I rang him again today to double check and he still said yes.

After hearing what you guys had to say I rang 3 other ford dealerships and a regular mechanic and all said no O ring there, just the 2 that come with with the nut. Seems that one tech had no idea what he was talking about.

[blackers10]

good work mate!! glad its fixed haha

[jrh001]

Hi,

Yet another victim here. Have just replaced the power steering hose on an AU series 1. Bursons price for the hose (Kelpro brand) was $84.10. They quoted $114 for AU series II. Repco price for AU II was higher, $133.

Many thanks for this thread (and the one on alternators).

JH

[frd906]

nearly 12 months later, lol

never replaced mine yet, havent had to, and mines a series 1

[NC1183]

Karma says you will now.

[DJM83]

Originally Posted by frd906

nearly 12 months later, lol

never replaced mine yet, havent had to, and mines a series 1

Id nearly bet it has been changed at some point though.

[frd906]

nope well since ive had it has been no problems at all, lol, at that time is the car was 18 grand at zupps holden,

we have had it for about 6 years, no powersteering leaks, but the rack is leaking so that will get replaced soon