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#1 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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Hey everyone, im after a bit of guidance here.
A month or 2 ago, what I believe was a squealing noise coming from the torque converter, I have bought a used torque converter and I want to swap it over. The reason why I believe it is the torque converter is because the squealing occurred only while I held my foot on the brake and had the trans in gear/drive or reverse, it would go away in park or neutral, and would also go away once I actually started driving until I came to a stop. Anyway, needing the car, I continued to use it ![]() I may also have a small leak somewhere under there as well, as I noticed some oil drips on the concrete under the trans, so I've lifted the car and cleaned up under the trans with degreaser, so I may be able to find where it is coming from. Now, I have bought a replacement torque converter, a couple bottles of tq95 and a transmission service kit. The plan is to drop the auto, change the torque converter, put the auto back in and do a service and flush. I've been looking everywhere for a guide on how to take out the auto, the best piece of information I could find is: (a single reply from a thread on fordmods) Quote:
I could not see any bolts/seal under the trans which would be for an inspection plate? Any other surprises I should be aware of, like leaking oil from driveshaft/oil lines etc. I installed a bypass trans cooler about 20-30K ago to avoid transmission problems ![]() After as much advice as possible, the more in depth the better, I will try and do this with a friend on the weekend. |
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#2 | ||
Got Ghia?
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Perth
Posts: 999
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Yep remove driveshaft diff end first. Mark the Uni with paint marker to be sure it goes back in same way for balance purpose.
You might lose some oil out of the output shaft seal, especially when you tilt it back. I'd crack the rear pan bolts and drain some oil first. Then put a jack under the pan with some wood bracing to distribute the load. Inspection plate is at the front of the bellhousing, you can only see a little part of it from the front of the transmission looking back at the bellhousing at the bottom. It's a sheet metal plate you take out. Have fun getting the top bellhousing bolts is all I have to say! I used about 1.5m of extensions and a uni and got to it from behind the gearbox over the top.
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2007 BF MKII Ghia V8 - BA GT Exhaust| F6 Intake | Superlows | 19" GT-P's | 30mm Swaybar | - Sold ![]() 2002 AU2 XR8 Ute - Manual | Leather | Injected LPG | Pacemakers |
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#3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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2 and a half weeks later lol, I've finally got the time to get into this. Car is up on stands, I've removed the driveshaft, taken out the 4 torque converter bolts, disconnected the oil lines and unplugged the wiring. Now I need to unbolt the bell housing...
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#4 | ||
64 Deluxe 4 door
![]() Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Raxacoricofallapatorius
Posts: 10,357
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make sure you push the converter back into the trans before you pull it all apart.
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XM Deluxe FG XR50 BA Pursuit Ute |
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#5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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yeh, i didnt get that far yet, will finish the job later in the week. Also look like i need to unbolt the trans from the gear selector?
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#6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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So close yet it feels like i'm so far, all that is left is the top bolt on the starter motor and a couple of bolts on the bellhousing. The top bolts on the bellhousing were a PITA! but i could atleast see them.
Ah, i picked up my kincrome garage creeper from bunnings yesterday, special order for only $75. makes working under the cay so much more comfortable ![]() Also, when you say push the torque converter back first, thats obviously after i've cracked the seal between the bell housing and the engine right... |
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#7 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2005
Location: On a knifes edge!
Posts: 3,407
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Quote:
How I achieved this is the removal of the trans support (ensure trolley jack in supporting trans of course). Lower trans down (it shall pivot on the engine mounts) unit you can get your extensions (which shall not be that far, probably an inch), swivel socket and ratchet in there to undo them, then jack up again into original position and block up engine sump/flywheel housing. Another word of advice is to do the above before you undo any of the other transmission to flywheel retaining bolts. Doing it this way will ensure it remains flush and secure, hence those two bolts shall be much easier to remove. The above is just what has worked for me as on the 5L you can barely see the top bolts. I'm assuming the same can be said for the inline six. Good luck with it. When you have done it once, the second and third time is so much more easier. |
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#8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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Yeh, i've gotten the top bolts out, hopefully later today ill have the transmission out. Literally ive got 5 bolts to remove. The top starter bolt and 4 tans bolts which i've left in until i get the starter off.
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#9 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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the transmission is on the ground
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#10 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2005
Location: On a knifes edge!
Posts: 3,407
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Seems odd!
Should just slide off because, if you are not careful when removing the trans, and tip it forward, the T/C generally slides off onto the ground, hence why there is generally a brace across the front of the trans when they are done up and transported. Memory is a bit foggy on this one .................................... |
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#11 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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yeh thats what i thought too, wont budge for me. From reading around, could mean spline damage?
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#12 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2005
Location: On a knifes edge!
Posts: 3,407
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Yep.
Thinking similar. May have to try supporting it (the T/C) and giving it a good jiggle. If that does not work, you may have to give Brut Force a call. Let us know how you and him get along and what progress you have. |
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#13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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i've put a strap around the t/c and tried jerking and muscling it out, no luck. it spins freely and can move back and forth about 1cm, wont budge any further though.
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#14 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: QLD
Posts: 11,824
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Sounds like it might have picked up in the front bush
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#15 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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hmm, i got out the slide hammer. i think ill need to make up a bracket to go across the t/c.
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#16 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: QLD
Posts: 11,824
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If its that tight you found the noise. If its picked up the bush the pump will be damaged
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#17 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: May 2005
Location: On a knifes edge!
Posts: 3,407
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^^^^ What he said.
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#18 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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hmm, if that's the case, what options does that leave me? Is the pump replaceable?
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#19 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: QLD
Posts: 11,824
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Yes pump is replaceable.
They are tough to remove . I had one like that had full weight of trans hanging and near had to belt the trans out, sure took some getting off. The bush was stuck on the converter. |
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#20 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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made up a bracket this morning, and a couple of good whacks with the slide hammer broke the t/c free
![]() What should i look for in terms of damage, and what would the cause of the noise have been. If the pump was squealing would it not be constant no matter what gear i was in. so i assumed it was coming from the converter as it only happened in gear on the brake... |
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#21 | ||
64 Deluxe 4 door
![]() Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Raxacoricofallapatorius
Posts: 10,357
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Where ya at? Got a S2 auto sitting in my parts car. Can have it cheap if you come and pull it.
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XM Deluxe FG XR50 BA Pursuit Ute |
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#22 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: QLD
Posts: 11,824
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What does the converter snout look like?
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#23 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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#24 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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#25 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: QLD
Posts: 11,824
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The outside? where it runs in the pump bush? Can you see what was holding it in there ?
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#26 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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Looking into the pump housing, i cant see signs of any damage, the pump rubber bush is not damaged. The outside of the torque converter spout has no signs of damage and the spline has a few light scratches. inside the torque converter possibly on the face of the stator (where the spline reduces in size down inside the t/c) a round piece of metal is loose, and when i move the torque converter around i can hear what sounds like loose metal moving inside it. Also there were no signs of leaking oil.
Is it safe to say the damage was contained in the torque converter? |
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#27 | ||
Donating Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: QLD
Posts: 11,824
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Inside the converter does move around and will rattle , is normal . Once it is installed the internals are located on the front of the trans
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#28 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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Hmm, unless there is a way to test the pump, i think i'll install the new torque converter and see how it goes.
And what i meant by loose metal, it actually sounds like pieces of metal floating inside in the oil, i may even cut the converter open and check it out. |
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#29 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 721
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almost back together, and holy crap getting the transmission back onto the jack under the car by myself was a pain in the ***! However looks like i've now got a coolant leak, its coming from the back hose that goes under the extractors into the back of the water pump...
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#30 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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Quote:
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