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Old 08-12-2006, 02:44 PM   #1
BillC
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Default AU XR8 Front wheel hub Nut

Could somebody tell me the size of the locking nut that holds the wheel bearing hub in the AU's? I need to buy the right size socket. The biggest I have is 32 mm and its a fair bit bigger than that. I would also like to know if the lockingnut (looks very different to any I have seen before) works just like any other nut? Any help would be appreciated.

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Old 08-12-2006, 02:55 PM   #2
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Its 1 3/8" AF or 36mm

I've sent you a pm with hub info.

Good luck with it ;)
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Old 08-12-2006, 06:57 PM   #3
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you could have just measured it with a ruler mate... and i think its a 35 mm socket in fact. not 36
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baboon_AU
its a 35 mm socket in fact. not 36
yes, you're right.

I just checked my calculations and 1 3/8" converts to a shade under 35mm.

I'll fix the 'how to'.

Thanks...
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillC
Could somebody tell me the size of the locking nut that holds the wheel bearing hub in the AU's? I need to buy the right size socket. The biggest I have is 32 mm and its a fair bit bigger than that. I would also like to know if the lockingnut (looks very different to any I have seen before) works just like any other nut? Any help would be appreciated.
It's definately a 36mm socket because it's the only one I've used out of my 3/4" drive set. ( i went & checked 4 the dirty one) It's a group of captivated nuts to make one nut that acts like a nylex self locker and works just like a normal one but a little stiffer. you will probably need a 3 legged puller as well. keep tightening to put pressure on while rotating and hitting off with hammer. if your lucky it will come off in one piece if not the inner bearing inner sleeve will be seized to the stub axle. (all good fun) A very small cole chisel carefully tapped into the seam between the sleeve and the stub axle and worked around a bit will get it. once you crack it it will work off no probs. Just remember not too heavy handed around the stub axle. Hope this helps. both of mine seized on but it really isn't as hard as it sounds.
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:27 PM   #6
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LOL!

Great... I just pm'd Russ to change it in the "how to".

I used a 1 3/8" socket so I don't know for sure which metric size fits but it works out at 34.9mm.

Howesy, have you tried a 35mm socket on it?
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:41 PM   #7
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Definately 35mm socket - thats the one I used on mine. It may be a snug fit but it will go on properly.
Just turn it like any normal nut, the tabs on the outside are there only to retain the washer to the nut.

Also, make sure the car is well supported because it can be very tight.

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Old 08-12-2006, 07:45 PM   #8
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^well all this makes you wonder what models people have been doing it on...i can't see them having changed the size...but you never know
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Old 08-12-2006, 07:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodes-sh
i can't see them having changed the size
one mm over that sized nut is not a great deal.

In any event I just measured my 1 3/8" socket with verniers and it measures at 35.6 mm

I'd say that the correct socket is 35mm but a 36mm also works without a problem.

Anyone have a further comment?
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Old 01-02-2007, 03:30 PM   #10
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Hey guys, the job seems pretty straight forward but where is one supposed to find a torque wrench capable of 305Nm?
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Old 01-02-2007, 08:56 PM   #11
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when i changed my hub a couple of weeks ago, i just tightend using a breaker bar and going FT, as long as its tight and a bit mre then it will be ok. never worried about tourque wrench. but if you are worried about it, perhaps see your local mechanic and see if he would allow you to borrow it (with deposit if that helps) or local tool hire place.
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Its like central locking in your car. We've all had cars without it and we were fine then, but try and take it from me? NO WAY.
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Old 01-02-2007, 11:08 PM   #12
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305NM thats ******* tight..If it where that tight to begin with u would never of gotten undone to start with..I dont think that the right torque setting mate..Ud need alot of leverage to tighten that up..
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Old 01-02-2007, 11:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr t-series
305NM thats ******* tight..If it where that tight to begin with u would never of gotten undone to start with..I dont think that the right torque setting mate..Ud need alot of leverage to tighten that up..
On what are you actually basing your assessment and what would you consider a reasonable torque setting for that sized nut on that sized thread?

While you are pondering, I'll confirm that the correct tension on the nut is 305nm (225 lb ft).

As a by the by, my 3/4" drive torque wrench has a max tension of 320 lb foot (434nm) so 305nm ain't that tight... it's only tight if you've never had occasion to tighten something to those values.

edit: btw BillC, I'm not sure where you are but if you're in Bris, even though I won't loan out that sort of equipment, I'm happy to bring my torque wrench over when you are ready to tighten hub nuts.

Last edited by ronwest; 01-02-2007 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 02-02-2007, 01:44 AM   #14
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Just a question. The front hub nut, can it be reused?
I know the rear one carn't.
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Old 02-02-2007, 02:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AUIII XR8 MAN
Just a question. The front hub nut, can it be reused?
I know the rear one carn't.
Sure can.

I used Loctite as well but I do that on all critical nuts/bolts/threads.
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:28 AM   #16
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my Snap on 1/2 inch does 250 lbft easy. im a mech so i have these sorts of tools
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Old 02-02-2007, 02:07 PM   #17
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Thanks for the offer of the torque wrench but I am in Townsville. I did the job about a month ago now and thanks to all of your help it went very smoothly. The right hand side just slipped off but the left hand side left the inner ring. As you said I just tapped it off with a hammer and cold chisel and all was good. I just did the nuts up very tightly and I will probably have a look this weekend to make sure they are still tight. I bought the replacement bearing hubs from Autobahn for $140 each side. they were the cheapest in Townsville.
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Old 02-02-2007, 04:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillC
Thanks for the offer of the torque wrench but I am in Townsville.
That's no prob... business class seat for me $600 + business class seat for t/wrench $600 + motel, hire car, 2 weeks at Hayman, food, wine.... lets just call it an even 10 grand...

Glad you got it sorted Bill.
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Old 02-02-2007, 09:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronwest
On what are you actually basing your assessment and what would you consider a reasonable torque setting for that sized nut on that sized thread?

While you are pondering, I'll confirm that the correct tension on the nut is 305nm (225 lb ft).

As a by the by, my 3/4" drive torque wrench has a max tension of 320 lb foot (434nm) so 305nm ain't that tight... it's only tight if you've never had occasion to tighten something to those values.

edit: btw BillC, I'm not sure where you are but if you're in Bris, even though I won't loan out that sort of equipment, I'm happy to bring my torque wrench over when you are ready to tighten hub nuts.
Im basing it on the fact that it doesnt mater wot size the nut is or thread capabilities i just stated that seems a tad excessive for a wheel bearing..U dont need to get snotty..jeez
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Old 02-02-2007, 09:58 PM   #20
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if thats the correct setting then all i can say is my mistake..
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr t-series
Im basing it on the fact that it doesnt mater wot size the nut is or thread capabilities i just stated that seems a tad excessive for a wheel bearing..U dont need to get snotty..jeez
Believe me, I wasn't being snotty.

The guy had the right info, you told him that he's got the wrong info, I asked you on what you based your assertion?

I understand that this is the internet and there's a whole lot of dud info around so if you've got ontopic factual information and/or personal experiences that you can share with us then that's great, but it's always good to check your facts before offering advice.
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