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OzECruisers General Discussions E/N/D vehicles General Discussion ONLY. NO TECH THREADS

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Old 30-03-2006, 05:06 PM   #1
Interceptor'85
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Default Camshafts

Heya,
My cars an EF II GLi 4.0 auto, w/ pacemaker h4480 extractors, hi flow cat and 2.5" straight thru exhaust.
Who's delt with what Cam or knows some info they can share about the following?
What prices am I looking at?
And looking at 'Neb's Guide' it seems a Vernier Gear may be needed for some cams? At what stage is that necessary?
Same with upgrading valve springs, at what stage is it necessary?

Crow Cams
2222519 Mild Performance Cam EF/EL
2222543 needs computer recalibration
2222546 Race Cam need new computer

ALTED Cams
Stage 1 ?
Stage 2 ?
Stage 3 ?

Wade Cams
Wade 1636 - mild street setup
Wade 1004 @ 112 lumpy idle again still suitable for a mild street setup
Wade 1521a large cam recommended run a computer heavy duty valve springs

Jim Mock Motorsport Cams
DEV3HL - good idle and good midrange power for the street, requires heavy duty valve springs due to the high lift
DEV5 - good idle, makes most power high in rev rangeneeds heavy duty valve springs

Cheers

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Old 30-03-2006, 05:24 PM   #2
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in short...what cams have ppl been happy with...and vouch for any of the info above ^^^
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Old 30-03-2006, 05:27 PM   #3
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Camtech 833, 215@50 530 lift, 110LSA
Need HD springs.
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Old 30-03-2006, 05:28 PM   #4
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I am interested in knowing what cams people have used and are happy with.
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Old 30-03-2006, 05:34 PM   #5
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getting a wade 1636 in very shortly. will let you know.
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Old 30-03-2006, 05:57 PM   #6
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What do you want to do with the car? What other work have you done? A camshaft is only one part of an engine, it's pointless picking the biggest cam around, and running a stock head/auto/diff/ECU.

Wade 1636 is probably your best bet for a near-stock car.
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Old 30-03-2006, 05:59 PM   #7
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I've got a Clive custom grind stage 5 cam and a Vernier gear was required along with after market ECU.
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Old 30-03-2006, 07:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron_EF8
What do you want to do with the car? What other work have you done? A camshaft is only one part of an engine, it's pointless picking the biggest cam around, and running a stock head/auto/diff/ECU.

Wade 1636 is probably your best bet for a near-stock car.
as said above ive got a full exhaust system.

im not interested in head work/port polish...just a good cam without too much hassle

I know ppl on here are Wade cam crazy :P, which is why im asking about the other brands too
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Old 30-03-2006, 07:06 PM   #9
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i have the 2222519 but havent put it in yet, also have valve springs too but same thing havent put them in yet
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Old 30-03-2006, 07:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eb91xr6
i have the 2222519 but havent put it in yet, also have valve springs too but same thing havent put them in yet
let us know how that goes eb91 cozz thats an EF/EL cam.

i wonder if putting a later model crow cam in would have any advantages? any thoughts pplz?
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Old 30-03-2006, 08:36 PM   #11
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see ya done ya home work on the cams just like me. i'm going the crow 2222543 for my eb (bout $550 all up including springs and vernier gear, chain and crank pully from repco with a good discount) but i'm getting major work to the head and intake should be able to flow about 360hp. without any head work i'd go the smaller crow, but i'm new to the sceen so i don't know much. but i did here that the vernier gear is used if ya shaved the head. not sure about that at all. i think there is a few more important reasons to use it bar the shave.
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Old 30-03-2006, 09:03 PM   #12
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Have a look at my mods below. She goes good, rwkw was with a bad AFR due to a bodgy oxy sensor and was before the K&N filter. 112 probably the most i'd go for an auto though, 110 way too lumpy.
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Old 30-03-2006, 09:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron_EF8
it's pointless picking the biggest cam around, and running a stock head/auto/diff/ECU.
Soft. Utterly soft
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Old 30-03-2006, 09:54 PM   #14
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wade 977B
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Old 31-03-2006, 12:20 AM   #15
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I had a crow stage 2 in my EF and really didnt notice much difference. A friend of mine has a Crow stage 3 and some mild headwork and notices a huge difference with the stock computer. I'd love to see what an aftermarket ECU would do.
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Old 31-03-2006, 08:28 AM   #16
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wade 977b and very happy with it runs well on stock computor to.
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Old 31-03-2006, 11:07 AM   #17
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Ok and how much are we looking at here? $200-300 for the cam installed?

I might look into ECU's also while im at this.

Just found out too that the vernier gear allows you to adjust the rev range of the cam up or down to suit your taste or dyno output.
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Old 31-03-2006, 12:59 PM   #18
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If your going ecu go the 1521a instead and get the rev limiter lifted a bit
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Old 31-03-2006, 03:36 PM   #19
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Tahts the thing though...is the 1521a very lumpy and a frustration for slow traffic? Then again i dont want to be disappointed and want a better cam later on.

It's a daily driver and I'm looking to get some more out of my car without making it a racer, which it isnt.

What are Unichips like or any other chips?
Are chips and ECU's the same thing, im not sure?
Will I benefit again in fuel economy with a cam like my exhaust system did for me, or not?
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Old 31-03-2006, 03:43 PM   #20
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a cam alone depending on what one you select can change fuel econ either way.
the more unhappy the cam, the more fuel it'll use, but most of these problems can be fixed by having an aftermarket chip installed.
rumour has it that very soon CAPA will be releasing a 'flash' style tuner for the EF/EL.
its not the same as the flash tuner for the AU/BA, but an addon module that is flash updatedable and essentially as good as an full aftermarket ECU.
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Old 31-03-2006, 04:15 PM   #21
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I'll keep my eye open for that CAPA flash release chip.

How do you find the Wade 1004 110 cam john?
better than the stock one? more gains and efficiency/economy?
is the 112 slightly different or very different to the 110?
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Old 31-03-2006, 04:20 PM   #22
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well, when we put the cam in, the difference was awesome.
unfortunately since then my engines been through hell and hasnt been the same since.
i'm sure performance on petrol would be a lot better then LPG but i can't run petrol as the injectors are stuffed.
my cars best is a 15.9, which is far from what it SHOULD run, but i hate to think how it'd go with a stock cam now :P

difference between 1004 110 and 1004 112 is the idle quality and down low power.
the 110 will come on a little earlier, but at the expence of idle quality.

for an idea of performance, 2 EL fairmonts had 1004's installed.
both were practically the same, cat back only.
1004 110 ran 15.4, 1004 112 ran 15.6
but as i said, the idle quality on both these cams isnt exactly optimal :P
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Old 31-03-2006, 04:29 PM   #23
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cheers John. Mine already idles a little rough while sitting still so maybe a lumpy cam wouldnt be the best move for me?

i guess the 110 could work well for with the all round power band since the 4480 extractors give the high end gain. the 110 cam working the low end.
or i could go the 112 and give the high end all the gain.

what pricing am i looking at for cams?
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Old 31-03-2006, 04:35 PM   #24
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the 1004 110 makes idle fiarly bad :P
especially with an auto, be prepared for lots of stalling lol.
1004 112 seems to idle ok with a tickford ECU.
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Old 04-04-2006, 11:00 AM   #25
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What about an EL XR6 cam or the like?

Good gains? Would I need to replace valve springs?
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Old 04-04-2006, 12:35 PM   #26
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i got a dev 5 down low is abit average, but I got a hi stall (3000rpm) and woooot away we go!

I guess you can retard the dev 5 a bit to get more bottom end as the cost of the top if you don wanna get a hi stall
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Old 04-04-2006, 10:47 PM   #27
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Default Wade Regrinds???

Ok im not going the XR6 cam. 7kw is not worth it.

How cheap are Wade Regrinds ppl?
And whats the diff between 1004 and 977b cams?

cheers
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Old 04-04-2006, 11:38 PM   #28
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977b a bit beefier...

regrinds normally about 120 changeover..
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