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#1 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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Hi
Okay well I have a center dash fascia and heater controls from a series 3 and want to replace my series 1 fascia with them, I have all the heater controls and vacuum lines and i have the series 3 plugs I just wanted to know if it was a straight case of cutting off the series 1 plugs and wiring up the series 3 with no changes in wiring colours/positions? Thanks Last edited by FYRE_81_AUI_00; 04-01-2011 at 10:07 AM. |
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#2 | ||
AU Falcon Man
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Gippsland
Posts: 928
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sorry not that simple, they use completely different vacuum system that would require a AU2/3 heaterbox aswell as wiring, easier to do a Series 1 faimront dash conversion...
Cheers Cam
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2015 SZ MkII Ford Territory TS Aero Blue, RWD Petrol, Standard Sat Nav. 2013 TF Ford Kuga Ambiente Panther Black, AWD, 6 Speed Auto, 1.6lt ecoBoost Turbo Petrol. Was 2012 FG Mk2 Ford Falcon XR6 Swift Green,6 Speed Auto, Stock... 2001 AUIII Ford Falcon Forte Genuine T2 TS50 bodykit, 18" BF Cobras, Boge and Eibach Suspension and Complete AU2 Fairmont Ghia Interior 1994 EF Ford Fairmont Gun Metal Grey, Lumpy Straight 6 |
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#3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ...in the shed
Posts: 3,386
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IIRC the wiring is completely different Series 1 to 2/3, all the looms etc. as fourl6 said a fairmont conversion is a lot easier
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#4 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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thanks guys,
i was told that it was possible by a mate which is why i wanted to do it and when i tried searching on the net for it the only thing i found was a quick post on fordmods i think it was (which i cant find now ofcourse to link to) where someone asked the same thing about the wiring with the reply basically being to chop off the old plugs and splice in the new ones and to just cut off any unused wires.. no doubt you saved me alot of frustration and swearing trying to get it to work lol so thanks heaps! guess i have a series 3 dash for sale now ;) |
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#5 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 245
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if you are swapping standard fascia's then it is straight forward, you need the later series vacuum lines though. snip the s1 wires then join on the s3 plugs, replace vacuum line, heater cable.
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#6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Victoria, The no fun state
Posts: 1,668
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Some bloke on fordmods said he did this and all he swaped was dash he said when the dash was out he could easyly plug all the series 3 stuff in and hooked up the cable for the heater pluged in his cluster and bcm and said had no probs with it
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#7 | ||
not here much anymore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sthn NSW
Posts: 22,918
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When I had my dash apart (I was replacing some damaged plastics on the console) it was all plug and play so I can't see why it would have changed between the series. Shouldnt be too hard to check though - just pop your fascia off and see if the new stuff will plug in.
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2024 F150 XLT
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#8 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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thanks for your help guys,
yes all i want to do is put a series 3 forte center dash fascia and heater controls in instead of the series 1, I have the center dash fascia piece with the controls and the vacuum lines and cable i do have the entire series 3 dash and loom also, i tried swapping the whole dash over but the airbag module plug and the main plug for the steering column are different and i dont have the series 3 airbag module or steering column or bcm and couldnt be bothered with it all so i just stuck with the series 1 loom in the dash - fun enough job pulling the dash to pieces lol with the series 3 fascia piece and heater controls, i have already tried just plugging it all straight in already, the vacuum lines and the heater cable both plug in fine and look the same as the series 1 the 2 main plugs for the series 1 loom at the heater controls plugged straight into the series 3 heater controls but the aircon didnt work at all that way and also the demister then isnt wired in also because the switch is seperate on the series 1 so I was hoping it was just a case of wiring up the series 3 plugs correctly?? and if it is possible if it is a case of the wiring being colour coded the same or not? also is it possible to wire up the central locking button while im going with a series 1 loom and bcm etc? cheers |
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#9 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 245
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there are some minor differences in wire color and the pin layout is different for demister and air con. also you will end up with a few s1 wires which arent used, just tape them off.
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#10 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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thanks IntechAU, have you already done this to your AU1?
I'll give it a go soon based on what you have said just didnt want to end up halfway through it and with no working aircon in the middle of summer in QLD lol |
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#11 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 245
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Yeah i just did this swap in my s1 forte. everything works fine.
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#12 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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thanks mate, good to know
thanks for the replies everyone |
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#13 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Victoria, The no fun state
Posts: 1,668
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Grouse I want to do the same thing to my au1 xr so all i gotta do is re-wire the a'c and demister butons and should be okay to my understanding.
Also just found out the mirror switch is the same as bf's plugs straight in mine stuffed yp so took one out of a wrecked cab and it plugged straight in, and works fine. |
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#14 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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hey balboa, let us know how you go doing this, it will be a good little mod for other series 1 people to try, i will give it a go soon when i get a day here without rain
i went to the wreckers and found a series 2/3 AU and cut out the heater control plugs and some excess wire to wire it in, too easy also im pretty sure that the EF/EL mirror switch is the same as the AU one also |
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#15 | ||
not here much anymore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sthn NSW
Posts: 22,918
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Ive got a complete centre fascia from an AU3 available if anybody wants it, the controls are perfect but the outer plastic (bit that goes around the CD player etc) has a few holes drilled into it from a phone kit. Good for a changeover though because all the controls work perfectly.
$40 for whoever wants it.
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2024 F150 XLT
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#16 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Victoria, The no fun state
Posts: 1,668
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Yeah i got all the pieces but i don't wanna cut the plugs of the original loom so i'll just use some small spade terminals of the sr2 plugs and do it that way.
Also I wanna change the colour of the illumination in the HVAC controls can someone please let me know what leds they used in there and also the cluster what leds should i go for there. I'm also playing with a few interior ideas for the ute but I have a few medical bills to sort out first so depending on cost might have to be but aside for a bit Also does anyone know which button to use as theres 2 buttons for the a/c in my ute one says a/c max and the other is just a/c but I cant sweet f-all between the two modes and i had a thermometre at the wents and the a/c is always 5 degrees so what's the diffrence i dunno know And need a wiring diagram as i beleive the colours are diffrent between the two |
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#17 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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I haven't noticed any difference between a/c and a/c max either other than that the a/c max setting forces it into recirculate and you can't switch to fresh, probably better to wire in standard a/c if that is the only difference?
I dunno about the wiring hence why I was asking here, maybe IntechAU will know seeing he has done it. I will try and find a wiring diagram for the heater controls and post it on here if I can find one With the led's the instrument cluster ones are T5 wedge led but if you put in blue ones the needles wont light up. I think I read somewhere awhile ago about people sanding the red off the needles to make them work but I haven't tried it so I'm not sure. I think the ones in the heater controls are the T4 neo wedge but I would have to look to make sure. |
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#18 | ||
All Bran = Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: BrizVegas
Posts: 1,970
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Wiring diagrams here:- http://fordforums.com.au/wsm/wire/au/Part%2024-4.html
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#19 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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thanks for posting that ronwest, i didnt see your post with the link until today but i finally found my ellery manual with the wiring diagrams in it and got some blue sky so i went to do this arvo
i was able to work out the wiring diagrams enough to get my head around most of it despite the wiring diagrams colours in the book being totally different to whats in the car - surprise lol but i have one problem im not sure on, the plug for the a/c control (the white and grey one) on the series 1 has one black wire which goes to I/P Junction Box and then onto Boost on the fan switch but the series 2 plug has 2 black wires, one goes to I/P Junction Box and Boost the same as the series 1 does and the other is a Ground wire - but i dunno how to tell which one is which can someone please help out and let me know which wire is which or how i can test it to find out?? it will be very appreciated ![]() |
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#20 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Victoria, The no fun state
Posts: 1,668
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Hey mate would you be able to post some pics of your loom as I'm at the same stage you are but my car is a late series1 and the plugs sound diffrent to yours as I heard there were minor upgrades to late series 1's
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#21 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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hey balboa, mine is as late a series 1 as you can get mate 03/2000 lol
in 04/2000 series 2 started if you are looking for the second black (ground) wire on your series 1 loom, its the one which goes into the demister switch, you need to use the white and black wire that goes to the demister switch on the series 1 loom and move them over to the a/c controls plug for the series 2/3 problem there is the a/c control on series 2/3 has 2 black wires going into it and im not sure how to tell which is the 'ground' and which is the 'boost fan switch' because the wiring diagrams in the book i have are terrible, only (incorrect) colour coding for the wires i'll try and post up some pics for you later today or tomorrow but only have my phone at the moment and it takes horrible pics so you probably wont be able to see anything |
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#22 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 245
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here are pics of the wiring in my au1
au1 demister plug ![]() ![]() au2 demister/air con plug ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#23 | ||
AU Falcon Man
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Gippsland
Posts: 928
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have you got the vacuum plug working correctly? did you have to move much or is it the same plug?
__________________
2015 SZ MkII Ford Territory TS Aero Blue, RWD Petrol, Standard Sat Nav. 2013 TF Ford Kuga Ambiente Panther Black, AWD, 6 Speed Auto, 1.6lt ecoBoost Turbo Petrol. Was 2012 FG Mk2 Ford Falcon XR6 Swift Green,6 Speed Auto, Stock... 2001 AUIII Ford Falcon Forte Genuine T2 TS50 bodykit, 18" BF Cobras, Boge and Eibach Suspension and Complete AU2 Fairmont Ghia Interior 1994 EF Ford Fairmont Gun Metal Grey, Lumpy Straight 6 |
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#24 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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fourl6, the vacuum plug which plugs in under where the glove box is, is exactly the same on both series 1 and series 2/3, but they are different on the back of the heater controls so i dont think that is an issue after all
and thanks for the pics and info IntechAU, have you checked to see if your rear demister does definitely work? i take it you have grouped together the wires on the series 2/3 plug? so the black wire closest to the white and brown and blue-red is joined to the series 1 black (ground) demister wire? and the black wire next to the pink-blue and red-green is connected to the black one on the series 1 a/c control? in what you have written down, i take it the 'taped off' wires were the ones going to the orange plug? which if i remember right are for the wagons/utes with the gear selector on the steering column or something like that so you just dont even worry about touching that plug from what i can see on the wiring diagram i have, the fan switch plug seems to be fine as it is and you dont need to change anything there because the wiring was changed inside the fan switch itself so you dont touch that either so its just the a/c control plug and the demister which need changing around, which also means you can just move the wires around on the current series 1 plugs and dont need a series 2/3 plug if you cant access a wreckers to get one, so.. so if the plug is roughly like this when looking at it where the wires go in like in the photos but with the clip to the right ------- | 1 6 |_ | 2 - | | | 3 - |_| | 4 7 | | 5 8 | ------- on a/c control plug for the series 1 you have 8 wires, 1 blue-red (dimming) 2 black (boost fan switch) 3 pink-blue (eecv 92) 4 yellow-black (fan switch) 5 red-green (fan switch 1) 6 brown (exterior lights) 7 orange (eecv 93) 8 violet-red (ignition accessory) on a/c control series 2/3 plug you have 7 wires, in same order on the plug 1 black (boost fan switch ??) 2 red-green (fan switch) 3 white (body comp) 4 EMPTY 5 black (ground ??) 6 pink- blue (eecv 92) 7 brown (exterior lights) 8 blue-red (dimming) so basically if that is right then you just terminate the blue-red and brown wires on the demister switch, move the white wire from the demister switch to 3 and the black to 5 then on the series 1 a/c plug you terminate red-green, orange and violet-red wires then with the 2 a/c control plugs move 1 to 8 (blue-red to blue-red) 2 to 1 (black to black) 3 to 6 (pink-blue to pink-blue) 4 to 2 (yellow-black to red-green) 5 - terminate 6 to 7 (brown to brown) 7 - terminate 8 - terminate i hope this is right and makes sense lol and hopefully helps other people too ![]() |
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#25 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 245
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Quote:
i swapped the series 2 vacuum plug and lines as the plugs are different. |
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#26 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Victoria, The no fun state
Posts: 1,668
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Quote:
I'm abit lucky mate i have a test light which glows diffrent colours for positive or negative but i keep geting the green light which is earth where there should be power unless they stay grounded and then get power through them when you flick the switch. |
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#27 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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IntechAU - when you say you swapped the vacuum lines, do you mean you used the ones that came with the series 2/3 dash or put the old series 1 lines and plug onto the series 2 heater controls?
Im curious exactly what you mean because I have a series 1 and a series 3 here, both with the vacuum lines and cables etc from the car they came from and the plugs which go into the car under the glove box are identical Balboa - let us all know how you go mate, i started to do it yesterday but kept getting rained on.. will try and go do it now. hopefully have it all worked out now and will have no problems, will let you know how it goes |
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#28 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 245
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check where the plug joins the back of the fascia, i'm sure the pins are different. you may be able to utilise your lines but i'm sure the plug is different.
you need to change the cable as the au1 attaches different to the au2/3 on the back of the fascia. |
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#29 | ||
woop woop woop woop
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 61
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IntechAU- yeah i thought thats what you meant, they are completely different where the vacuum lines are on the back of the heater controls, do you mean you pulled out the entire mechanism and swapped it over or just moved the actual tubes around?
thanks for all your help with this too mate, its appreciated alot well i got around to (almost) finishing a few things on the car today including wiring it all up but now i think the heater controls i had were dud ones because it went spastic for 2 secs then ***** itself and wouldnt work at all and then when i went to start the car with it hooked up still to see if the aircon would work with the car running, it spazzed out and the car started singing at me, hopefully the wreckers here will have some heater controls that work and ill try again in a few days.. |
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#30 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 245
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Quote:
FYRE_81_AUI_00 - this is a pic of the vac lines taken when i had my dash out {you dont need to remove your dash for this** i have highlighted the two retaining clips, a black vacuum line and the plug below the glove box. remove the glove box, seperate the main plug and the black vac line, pop both clips and remove. ![]() |
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