Best fix for stripped sump bolt hole.

[avisionit]

I just thought I would add this for people that go through the same agony as I did over the last few months. I don't know how to put up a tutorial in the other section otherwise I would with pictures.

I have an AU3 XR8 but this would work on any sump pan. 8 months ago, my sump pan plug hole stripped. So, first you need to know, I don't know how to weld, even though I own a welder, I don't have any friends that are ever willing to help out. I don't know anyone with a hoist. I REALLY didn't want to have to take the motor out.

First thing, I went out and bought an oversized bolt. After batteling with it for over 2 hours, all it did was made the thread worse.
Second.. I did a lot of searching and YouTubing and found somthing called a Hellicoil. I was over the moon thinking this will solve the problem. After spending 100 bucks on a helicoil kit, I drilled the hole on the sump pan out and tapped a new thread. At the time of doing this, I started thinking to myself, there is really only 3 to 5 mm or steel on this pan. I began to wonder whether this would work.
So I loaded up the helicoil with heaps of the strongest Threadlock. I screwed it in and let it sit over night.
Next day seemed great. I put a new bolt on and was able to get it tight enough for it not to leak. This was 3 months ago and I thought my oil leak problems were a thing of the past.

The other day, I went into the garage, my car had not been driven for 3 weeks. I noticed a pool of oil seeping from under the car. After getting down and looking, sure enough, it was the bolt again.. I was beside myself. So I came the conclusion I either had to buy a new pan and take the motor out and put that on, I really dreaded that, OR find someone that would weld or bronze a nut to the out side. Yeah well I know noone that would do that.

So I keeped looking and thinking and one night watching youtube, I came accross this thing called a RivNut? I was not sure whether this existed here in Australia or whether it was not real. I am 58 and I thought how come I have never heard of this? How come when I put out and asked the questions on the forum for a fix to my stripped pan problem noone else had ever mentioned it.

So I thought maybe it isn't known very well. For those that don't know, Basically it is a tool you need to get and some special nuts for it. It is basically a pop riviter that rivits NUTS. Perfect I thought. I dont need to take out the engine just have to work under the car on stands. These tools and the nuts come in various sizes and can be purchased for around 100 bucks on Ebay BUT a word of caution. I bought a proper one at Total tools for $250.00 It is really had to compress and there is just enough clearance under the car on stands to use this tool. I barely had the strength. On a hoist would be a different ball game and if you can get to do it on a hoist that is DEFINATELY the way to go. Anyway, I drilled the hold out for the larger Rivnut M12, took a 15mm Hole. I also Bought Some JB Weld for added peice of mind. After drilling out the hole and letting a couple of litres of oil run through the motor over night to get any little bits of metal that might of come off during the drilling, I set out to install it. Yes I used grease on the Drill bit too, but wanted to make sure... I loaded it with JB Weld crawled under the car and with all my stregnth put it in.

So HOPFULLY I am not being premature here, and saying it seems all good. I hope in 3 mths I can say the same. I am confident and this Rivnut makes sense and if installed ok, it sould be fine.

I belive the reason the Helicoil failed was 1. there is not enough steel for it to lock onto. 2. the Threadtight, overtime was weakend by the oil and started leaking again.

I hope it lasts and for those that are in the same boat, give it a go. Search Youtube to see what it is. I think it is also called a Nutsert.

Good luck. PHOTOS..... https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...3a?usp=sharing

[83Aerodyne]

A previous mechanic stripped the thread on the aluminum oil pan on my suzuki road bike. I tried tapping and a larger plug, extra fibre washer seals and I paid to have helicoil installed.....still leaked.

I needed a quick fix so used plumbers tape and automotive gasket cement...Not a leak in 5000 km.

Might be worth a try.

[aussiblue]

I would use the solution I used to put drain plugs in BTR auto transmissions sumps. Essentially brass fitting secured with flat nuts, washers and some master pipe sealant as pictured in my post here: https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11487042

Suitably sized reducing bushing e.g. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hex-Redu...0AAOSwk-1Z6x7d held with a brass flat nut like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-...k-nut_p4700216 and copper washers and plugged with solid brass plug. Of course the sump has to come off for this solution. I have several nutsert and rivnuts sets of various brands and quality. They are good for attaching odd bits of trim and fastening small hinges etc on older cars but I would never have thought of using one for a sump nut solution and I am not sure, that, as they are just a friction fit fastener, I would trust one (in fact I wouldn't) to hold especially somewhere subject to heating up and cooling down.

[aussiblue]

I also find that even just being used on metal trim pieces, nutserts/rivnuts tend to loosen over time. For example the lift up rear Aungar window louvers on my 1980 LC Lancer Hatchback have aluminium hinges fastened to the hatch with four nutserts (2 for each hinge) and I have to replace them every so often even though I probably lift the louvers up on the hinges less than once a year to thorough clean the rear window. They are also somewhat renowned for eventually spinning free if the bolt in them is frequently undone or removed; they are best for thing left permanently bolted together.

In any event, I hope despite my reservations, your innovative solution lasts.

[avisionit]

Originally Posted by 83Aerodyne

A previous mechanic stripped the thread on the aluminum oil pan on my suzuki road bike. I tried tapping and a larger plug, extra fibre washer seals and I paid to have helicoil installed.....still leaked.

I needed a quick fix so used plumbers tape and automotive gasket cement...Not a leak in 5000 km.

Might be worth a try.

Not really a permanent fix

[avisionit]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

I would use the solution I used to put drain plugs in BTR auto transmissions sumps. Essentially brass fitting secured with flat nuts, washers and some master pipe sealant as pictured in my post here: https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11487042

Suitably sized reducing bushing e.g. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hex-Redu...0AAOSwk-1Z6x7d held with a brass flat nut like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/kinetic-...k-nut_p4700216 and copper washers and plugged with solid brass plug. Of course the sump has to come off for this solution. I have several nutsert and rivnuts sets of various brands and quality. They are good for attaching odd bits of trim and fastening small hinges etc on older cars but I would never have thought of using one for a sump nut solution and I am not sure, that, as they are just a friction fit fastener, I would trust one (in fact I wouldn't) to hold especially somewhere subject to heating up and cooling down.

That was the whole point I was making. I, in NO WAY, wanted to have to remove the sump because it meant lifting or removing the engine. Otherwise the fix was easy. A new Sump.

[avisionit]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

I also find that even just being used on metal trim pieces, nutserts/rivnuts tend to loosen over time. For example the lift up rear Aungar window louvers on my 1980 LC Lancer Hatchback have aluminium hinges fastened to the hatch with four nutserts (2 for each hinge) and I have to replace them every so often even though I probably lift the louvers up on the hinges less than once a year to thorough clean the rear window. They are also somewhat renowned for eventually spinning free if the bolt in them is frequently undone or removed; they are best for thing left permanently bolted together.

In any event, I hope despite my reservations, your innovative solution lasts.

Me too, at least untill I can be bothered taking the engine out for a better reason than just fixing the sump.

[gregaust]

Your best option now that a helicoil has failed would be

See what size the hole is now .
Then look at a thread chart , see what thread suits that size hole .
Cut a new oversize thread .
have an insert made up to screw in that hole as a plug
or use it as an insert with a smaller thread for a plug machined in the centre

[avisionit]

Originally Posted by gregaust

Your best option now that a helicoil has failed would be

See what size the hole is now .
Then look at a thread chart , see what thread suits that size hole .
Cut a new oversize thread .
have an insert made up to screw in that hole as a plug
or use it as an insert with a smaller thread for a plug machined in the centre

Not enough steel on the oil pan for that really. Its only 3mm. The insert would end up stripping that too or just spin around unless it was welded in. Or maybe with JB Weld. But thats similar to what I have already done With the added advantage that the insert is crimped in.

[gregaust]

Ok then pull the sump off . Sorry I commented

A sump plug can hold in that thin threaded plate for many years . Done correctly could work fine .. A rivnut was never going to work lol

[Pis-ton broke]

weld a nut over the sump hole. then put a bolt and washer in the nut. you can cut the nut down if its to thick.
you will need a good welder to do this, you can do this with the sump on.

[avisionit]

Originally Posted by gregaust

Ok then pull the sump off . Sorry I commented

A sump plug can hold in that thin threaded plate for many years . Done correctly could work fine .. A rivnut was never going to work lol

So far so good. Seems to Rivnut seems to be working.

[avisionit]

Originally Posted by Pis-ton broke

weld a nut over the sump hole. then put a bolt and washer in the nut. you can cut the nut down if its to thick.
you will need a good welder to do this, you can do this with the sump on.

Thats was the whole thing. I said I couldnt weld and didnt know anyone who could or that would have been my first option.

[Uncle_Ken]

I got put a Magnetic Oil Drain Plug on mine no issues with it leaking
UK

[avisionit]

Originally Posted by Uncle_Ken

I got put a Magnetic Oil Drain Plug on mine no issues with it leaking
UK

Magnetic? What on earth is that?

[Polyal]

Originally Posted by avisionit

Magnetic? What on earth is that?

Mag plug I assume that catches debris.

[Uncle_Ken]

Originally Posted by avisionit

Magnetic? What on earth is that?

HAve a look on ebay..
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...Plug+&_sacat=0


I cant remeber what I got.


It seals the hole but it grips using magnetic force.
UK

[aussiblue]

I have never seen a drain plug that seals magnetically but perhaps they exist; magnetic drain plugs usually are just designed to attract and catch magnetic particles floating in the oil.

[Uncle_Ken]

Originally Posted by aussiblue

I have never seen a drain plug that seals magnetically but perhaps they exist; magnetic drain plugs usually are just designed to attract and catch magnetic particles floating in the oil.

Magnetic Oil Drain Plug does this at the same time