Car Stalling

tabletennisman · 26-06-2007, 07:56 PM

Recently we've been having a few problems with our auto AU1 Futura. It all started with the car not starting making a tick tick tick sound as we tried to start the car. All the lights, etc inside the car worked, but just wouldn't crank over. We soon discovered it was the battery so charged it up and the car started fine.

But here was where the problems started. The car sometimes stalls when below 500rpm (ie when stopped at lights or going very slowly). I've noticed when it "almost" stalls (car shakes), its at around 400rpm, and its fine at around 550+rpm. So, I've done the ECU Reset, and have since done just under 300kms, but are still having the same stalling problems. All sparkplugs have been changed as well as new oil, oil filter and air filter.

Anybody have any ideas before we take it to a mechanic?

Cheers, Appreciate any help!
Adrian.

EDIT: It only struggles when in drive/reverse. Its fine in neutral and park.

bodes-sh · 26-06-2007, 08:03 PM

try cleaning the throttle body and isc valve, then go from there

BA Turbo · 26-06-2007, 08:07 PM

How do u clean a throttle body i got a BA turbo and got simular problems please help

tabletennisman · 26-06-2007, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

try cleaning the throttle body and isc valve, then go from there

Cheers buddy. Will give these a try on the weekend.

tabletennisman · 26-06-2007, 10:14 PM

Another thing i forgot to mention, when it stalls, the oil light comes on. Not sure if this would have anything to do with it. I've found some guides of how to clean the throttle body and isc valve so will give it a go on the weekend.

BLACKAUXR8 · 26-06-2007, 10:40 PM

this sounds like when your battery died you took it out to charge it and now the computer might have reset. Im not sure if they reset from haveing the battery out for to long. But if they do and im sur someone will correct me if im wrong, your computer will be reading that your throttle body is new because the computer is reset. As said above you will need to clean it out as it is not getting the air the computer thinks its getting then it stalls. If that makes any sense to you at all. I just read it back to myself and nearly confused my self. Ha ha

tabletennisman · 01-07-2007, 12:27 PM

Thanks for everyones help. Just finished cleaning the throttle body and it seems to be fixed! Going to work tomorrow will be the real test but so far so good.

For anyone who searches this in the future, here's the guide to cleaning out the throttle body: http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...2&postcount=48

Just curious, but how has cleaning the gunk out stopped it from stalling? There was barely any black grease gunk in it? Definitely less than there was in that guide!

Cheers,
Adrian.

bodes-sh · 01-07-2007, 02:02 PM

more than anything it's the cleaning of the isc valve that helps with stalling as this gets clogged up with carbon making it harder to move, therefore cleaning it helps it move properly again

tabletennisman · 01-07-2007, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bodes-sh

more than anything it's the cleaning of the isc valve that helps with stalling as this gets clogged up with carbon making it harder to move, therefore cleaning it helps it move properly again

Looks like I spoke too soon. It's not quite as bad but did drop to around 500rpm at the lights and shook a bit. All I've done is what was in the guide above with cleaning the throttle body. I take it the ISC valve isn't the same thing? If not, can someone point me to a guide?

Cheers.

bodes-sh · 01-07-2007, 06:12 PM

i know there is a thread somewhere about it, tho i can't find it now.....where you took the intake piping off the throttle body, above that is a cylinder shaped device with a wire hanging out of it. This is the isc valve, undo the bolts holding it on, unplug the wire, remove it.

Turn it upside down and there are 2 holes. Spray a decent amount of carby cleaner in it, then either use compressed air or a screwdriver and a rag to try and clean some of the crap out of it, then afterwards give it a bit of a spray with wd40 or similar to lubricate it a bit.

Put it back on and test the car, this should hopefully fix your problem

Blue Ice · 01-07-2007, 06:30 PM

An ISC looks like this

tabletennisman · 01-07-2007, 07:38 PM

Found the How to guide on cleaning the ISC Valve.
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...9&postcount=43

This is all clean now, however i ripped the gasket/seal as i was pulling it off so i'm gonna have to buy a new one tomorrow. Thanks for everyone's help. Will let you know how i get on.

tabletennisman · 04-07-2007, 08:58 PM

Well, went to Ford this arvy to get the ISC Valve gasket (ford called it a air bypass valve - did not have one idea what a ISC valve was and thought i was from another planet). Put it in, reset the ECU however still the same problems.

So i remember reading somewhere that the idle should be 800rpm? So i'm gonna adjust it from 750 to 800 rpm and see if that makes a difference.

Any other ideas?

tabletennisman · 06-07-2007, 12:20 PM

anyone?

:

SirHenry · 06-07-2007, 02:38 PM

I had the exact same thing happen with my 2000 series 1 Classic, fine in park and neutral but the revs were too low in normal driving stalling and carrying on etc....

Turns out it was the Base idle needed to be reset, apols if I offend anyone here, but I tried every single trick suggested to get it to relearn itself but at the end of the day I took it in to Denmac Ford at Darra in Brisbane and had it fixed but $45 approx.

It was the best $45 I think I've spent on it, because the problem was just annoying the heck outta me.

tabletennisman · 07-07-2007, 08:44 PM

Well, yesterday leaving work, went to start the car. Nothing. Flat battery! So got it replaced and it seems that that may have been part of the problem? Got home and reset the base idle, however it still does shake a little (very little - could do this normally, but cant remember). The revs are still a little irregular but not too bad.

Will leave it like it is for now and hope it doesn't get bad again!

Thanks to everyone who helped!

blacklabel · 09-07-2007, 05:46 PM

Could also be your charging system, eg-alternator and/or regulator.
Battery light flickering at all??

tabletennisman · 10-07-2007, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blacklabel

Could also be your charging system, eg-alternator and/or regulator.
Battery light flickering at all??

Thats what i was thinking as it was only struggling when we were idling (which is when it isn't charging). Battery light doesn't flicker.

Car is still shaking, but nowhere near as bad. Next chance i get i'll up the idle RPM's to 850rpm instead of 800.

GK · 10-07-2007, 05:04 PM

Hi TTMan,

Glad the "How to's" were easy to follow.

The problem though is with your battery being stuffed. Low idle issues can occur when the battery is about cactus.

With the new one fitted, go through the computer reset procedure and it should sort itself out again.

Resetting of AU ECU
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...9&postcount=85

Keep us posted.

GK

SirHenry · 10-07-2007, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GK

Hi TTMan,

Glad the "How to's" were easy to follow.

The problem though is with your battery being stuffed. Low idle issues can occur when the battery is about cactus.

With the new one fitted, go through the computer reset procedure and it should sort itself out again.

Resetting of AU ECU
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...9&postcount=85

Keep us posted.

GK

Sadly I found this exact thing out the hard way symptoms presented just before the battery packed it in.

tabletennisman · 11-07-2007, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GK

Hi TTMan,

Glad the "How to's" were easy to follow.

The problem though is with your battery being stuffed. Low idle issues can occur when the battery is about cactus.

With the new one fitted, go through the computer reset procedure and it should sort itself out again.

Resetting of AU ECU
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showpos...9&postcount=85

Keep us posted.

GK

Thanks for taking the time to write out all your guides! They've been very helpful.

Did the ECU reset one final time. Also upped the idle rpm to 1000rpm in neutral & 750-800rpm in D.

You can still however feel it shaking/vibrating (even in Neutra/Park now & at 1000rpm). So i've come to the conclusion (a couple of mechanics have said) that it will be the leads! Well, i can only hope. They're gonna be a bugger to replace to, whilst trying to get ur hand in!

Philboss · 11-07-2007, 08:02 PM

Gday mate, I have an EL Falcon that does exactly the same thing. I've done every trick that has been posted here & more. Cleaned n replaced 3 ICS, cleaned throttle body, changed leads, reset base idle, new battery, used a feeler gauge on the throttle cable backing plate, increased the base idle using the throttle backing screw, none of it has worked. I'm gonna replace the battery terminals & have a local mobile ford machanic I've recently been introduced to, who is gonna put it on his computer. Like one bloke said in a previous post, it's just a problem that annoys the heck outta ya. I have a stage 2 crow cam in my 4litre, so the carryin on it does is often exagerated.

tabletennisman · 11-07-2007, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Philboss

Gday mate, I have an EL Falcon that does exactly the same thing. I've done every trick that has been posted here & more. Cleaned n replaced 3 ICS, cleaned throttle body, changed leads, reset base idle, new battery, used a feeler gauge on the throttle cable backing plate, increased the base idle using the throttle backing screw, none of it has worked. I'm gonna replace the battery terminals & have a local mobile ford machanic I've recently been introduced to, who is gonna put it on his computer. Like one bloke said in a previous post, it's just a problem that annoys the heck outta ya. I have a stage 2 crow cam in my 4litre, so the carryin on it does is often exagerated.

Let me know how you get on buddy!

all4fordau · 11-07-2007, 11:04 PM

Every time you reset the ecu it will take some time ( up to a couple of days) for the ecu to completely relearn all the parameters it needs for the correct operation. With all that you have done so far, I am sure if you just drive it for a few days it will relearn what it needs to know and you will be fine. Damn those computers!

robbo_yobbo · 12-07-2007, 07:57 PM

idealy you will want the computer to be good to go from the get go as soon as its reset, if the basics take a while to sort out, then the computer is not the real problem, the ECU is mereley learning how to mask the real issue over time, when infact it should only be learning how to improve fuel economy/emissions etc

s2_hyundai_s2 · 22-07-2007, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tabletennisman

Well, went to Ford this arvy to get the ISC Valve gasket (ford called it a air bypass valve - did not have one idea what a ISC valve was and thought i was from another planet). Put it in, reset the ECU however still the same problems.

So i remember reading somewhere that the idle should be 800rpm? So i'm gonna adjust it from 750 to 800 rpm and see if that makes a difference.

Any other ideas?

give your car a can of Vtech, and see what it does :ohnoes:
mad guy

:
nah ummd duno,
i will check your car out when i go to your house mate

see you sometime, tabletennismang

GK · 22-07-2007, 10:23 PM

Ttman,

How has your car been going?

Is it sorted now? Did you get the leads changed?

GK

tabletennisman · 23-07-2007, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GK

Ttman,

How has your car been going?

Is it sorted now? Did you get the leads changed?

GK

Well, it hasn't stalled since, but still is a little rough. Have the leads sitting in the garage. Still have to put them in but it looks like its gonna be bloody hard to get your hand in there even!

cazzi_miei · 15-09-2007, 03:16 PM

Hey t man..

Still having problems?

Not sure if it could be applicable to your situation.. (Is yours a 6 cyl?) but here's what's happened to me... Exact same symptoms you describe, although mine never actually stalled.

Maybe thats because it's an 8.. always a bit harder to pin point the fault on an 8.

Its an AU2 XR8 ute.. 230,000ks.

Looks like my friend finally found what the problem was.. it is now fixed.

And after doing/eliminating all the items below.. I might add that it runs like new ..

I searched these forums at length and tried all the things suggested.

Replaced Spark plugs..
Checked Leads.. Possible arc-ing to exhaust etc..
Cleaned Throttle body..
Checked Air flow sensor in air box because of possible oil build up from K&N filter..
Diagnostic test for possible error codes..
Including Oxygen Sensor etc..
Took injectors off.. Tested.. Cleaned..

Finally.. turns out the HARMONIC BALANCER was the problem.

Apparently.. after speaking with another mate of mine.. They are a common problem on the windsors.

Any way.. hope this helps you or others with similar problems.