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#1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 10
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Okay. Have a new Fiesta, metallic paint. What is the best polish? I believe even with a new car that it is worthwhile so paint fade does not become a problem later on. Some say a silcon based one others say a wax is best.When I drove it home for the first time I gave it a good clean with a wash and wax polish, hosed underneath etc. Car has come ex Thailand on a boat and no doubt it has had its share of salt laden sea air. I have seen what sea air does to metal even when items have come stored below decks in a container.Call me fussy but intend to keep this car for many a year.
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#2 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 40
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I am on to my 6th new car, I turn them over every 3 to 5 years (sometimes the mrs gets them once the lease is up) and other than regular washing, I have not seen the need for polishing. In fact the one time I did get a car 'professionally' detailed it ended up with unsightly swirl marks all over the paint.
Like I said give it a thorough hand wash (inside the doors, boot, bonnet etc) every fortnight or so, with a half decent wash and wax i.e. no washing detergent, and then chamois it down in the shade and I reckon you will be fine. Every car I have sold has sold quickly, with the first or second person buying the car (all comment on how good they look - when did you have it detailed etc). I know plenty of people will come on here and say block it back with clay every six months, then use Carnauba wax blah blah - it's not a $100,000.00 exotic, wash it regularly (never go near an auto wash, or car spa) and the car will look great for many years. Moorie. |
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#3 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,481
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Some people are very particular about the types of polish to use & I think you could easily get carried away with layers of different types of polish.
I prefer to polish my car because its outdoors all day everyday & I notice when it hasnt been done in a while. I just use a single polish or wax. I use the turtle wax colour cure wax bacause it helps hide minor scratches that the car gets from everyday use. It also makes claning the car easier when the water beads off after a wax. I can see where moorie is coming from though. I saw an old EH Holden, one owner, at a show on the weekend that had never been polished in its whole life & still looked in mint condition. But it had always been garaged & had a pretty easy life. |
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#4 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 10
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Thanks. The car spends most of its days parked outside ( work). Garaged rest of time.Live in Tassie BUT UV rays in summer here higher than most other places and that is what does the damage. Will stick with a good wash and wax and maybe every 6 months hit it with a wax polish as per Neales suggestion.
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#5 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: outback S.A...hiding in a workshop
Posts: 3,513
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leyton head into the car care section if you really wish to look after your car, you will find very knowledgable folks in there
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#6 | ||
Resident AFF detailer
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 3,730
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Thread-mine time...I only just saw this thread.
Now the OP hasn't been active for almost 3 months, but this is relevant to everyone so I'll still add in my two cents... On the part of the OP, there appears to be some confusion as to what a polish actually is, and what it actually does. Firstly, 'waxes' and 'polishes' are different products. A POLISH by definition contains abrasives, these types of products are rubbed against the paint surface for the purposes of defect removal and/or to enhance gloss. 'Compounds', ' Swirl Removers', Finishing Polishes'...these all fall into the POLISH category. A WAX is used to protect the paint surface by forming a barrier-like coating over the surface, whilst also giving a high-gloss finish that repels water and other airborne contamination. Now for those who don't want to dabble too much into all things detailing, the best type of product is a 'cleaner wax'....these products are actually a combination of a polish and a wax - that is, they contain very light abrasives that will help to remove very fine swirls, scratches and oxidation, while cleaning the paint and leaving a clean, even surface for the wax to bond to. A cleaner wax, applied every 8-12 weeks would keep a car's paintwork clean, glossy and looking good for a long time to come. So for those who were looking to only wash their car and occasionally give it a wax, I'd recommend that type of product. From the OTC range at auto stores, either Meguiar's Cleaner Wax, Mother's Carnauba Cleaner Wax or Meguiar's ColorX (the best out of these three and actually cheaper as well) are the way to go. Hopefully this helps to clear up some confusion...if anybody ever has any detailing-related questions just PM me!
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No longer an 'active' detailer. |
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#7 | ||
Moff-fan
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 314
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My Fiesta is also metallic, and also parked outside. I have used Autoglym Super resin polish on it, then Extra Gloss Protection (also Autoglym). Have found both of them offer very easy application and wipe off, as well as durability. There would definitely be better products out there if you wanted to look, but for the availability in store and price, I'm happy.
Only thing I have noticed is I don't get a ton of flake pop, but I have gotten more since my second time detailing the car. Odd!
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#8 | ||
Resident AFF detailer
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 3,730
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The AG SRP & EGP combo is actually pretty darn reasonable all things considered.
The more 'clean' your paint is (ie. less contamination of the surface) and the more level the paint is (less blemishes such as swirls and hazing) = more flake pop.
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No longer an 'active' detailer. |
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#9 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 360
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Can you find the products you mentioned at pretty much any Autobarn or SuperCheap?
Also, what do you do for cleaning out the brake dust from rims? My LX rims have about a billion spokes and the rim cleaners foam sprays don't really get all the dust off even after a good hard hose off. There's got to be a better way than sitting there with a toothbrush scrubbing every gap between every spoke... |
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#10 | ||
Moderator
![]() ![]() Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Kenthurst
Posts: 40,394
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Carpro Iron X
Spray on ... let it bleed off ... agitate if needed with a soft brush. rinse off Shiny There's a good thread in the Waxit subsection of this forum about it with pics. Don't use it on your lawn though ... leaves small dead patches.
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#11 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Rural Victoria
Posts: 184
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Caydus,
I started a thread about brake dust a few weeks back. It might be helpful. http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11361656
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#12 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 360
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That's brilliant mate, exactly what i needed, cheers!
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#13 | ||
Resident AFF detailer
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 3,730
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Guys, IronX is very expensive for not a whole lot of product, remember it's NOT a wheel cleaner, it's an iron and ferrous metals remover than can be used on wheels. So for sure it's something you'd use every few months as a maintenance-type product on your wheels, and but for regular use, it's going to get quite exy quite quickly...a dedicated wheel cleaner is the way to go.
There are a few different types of wheel cleaners out there - some are non-acidic, some use hydrofluoric acid, some use oxalic acid, some are hybrids...therefore not all cleaners are suitable to all types of wheels...make sure the product you get is suitable for your wheels...OEM wheels are clearcoated so they can handle anything, but if you wheels are chrome or anodized, then you need to be wary, as acidic cleaners can actually strip the coating off the wheel. If you're not sure, get a non-acid cleaner...it may mean you need to apply a few times at the start, but like anything else, if you clean your wheels thoroughly the first time, it's easier to keep them that way with regular maintenance, rather than letter them build up over time and then having to spend a lot more time cleaning them... I've actually just gotten my hands on a gallon of Finish Kare 817 non-acid Wheel Cleaner and Degreaser...has worked really well the first couple of times I've used it...it's a concentrate as well so I can dilute to whatever strength I need...suffice to say that gallon bottle is going to last me a fairly long time!
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No longer an 'active' detailer. |
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#14 | |||
Resident AFF detailer
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 3,730
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Quote:
For wheels that have many spokes...just spray on, allow to sit for 60-90 seconds to let the solution emulsify any dust...agitate with a soft paintbrush or wheel brush...then rinse off...you may need to do it a few times if the wheels are heavily coated with dust. Certainly for extremely heavy deposits then a decontamination product like IronX is going to be a huge assistance though.
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No longer an 'active' detailer. |
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#15 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 376
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If your a lazy slacker like myself when it comes to polishing cars get yourself a cheap orbital sander from bunnings and get some of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meguiars-Sof...022d13&vxp=mtr Pads come in 3 grades and this guy sells them for 1/2 the price you pay here. If your into Meguiars products there also way cheaper.
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#16 | |||
Moff-fan
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 314
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Quote:
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MY11 Fiesta Zetec 5sp in Vision... GONE!!!! ![]() Now rocking a 2012 Suzuki Swift Sport! ![]() |
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#17 | ||
Resident AFF detailer
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 3,730
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Yeah it's all too common unfortunately...
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#18 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 360
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So I decided to take the plunge and went ahead, clayed the car, sealed it, then a week later. Put a layer of wax on it. Since then I've been using a wash and wax in my foam gun on any washes afterwards.
It looks great now and keeps a shine like never before even when caked in dirt. I've noticed now though after a wash, dried water beads tend to show up a lot more. The bits where it dries before I can get to it with a cloth. I've been using Meguiar's quick detailer spray that I used as clay lube with a microfibre towel to get the spots off, but I'm running out and a bottle of the stuff ain't cheap. Are there any other cheaper alternatives I can use for applications like this and also some emergency bird poop cleanups that don't leave a marks/white trails across the paintwork or windows? |
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#19 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: W.A.
Posts: 1,713
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Maybe you can give the panels that are getting dry another brief spray with the hose?
I've realised that if you don't try to get the car 100% dry with your towel, but instead break up the droplets that remain into a very fine film, you don't get noticeable spots (though maybe tiny ones that you need to get up VERY close to see). Works for me, anyway.
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