Snort Turbo Kit, Stage 2.. Help??

[big_fletch]

i am currently looking at the Snort Stage 2 turbo kit for my AU.
Base Turbo Kit Features:
1 x full custom s/steel tuned length turbo manifold
1 x Garrett to4e turbocharger (rated over 500hp)
oil & water cooled bearing , twin internal wastegate!!
1 x super billet b.o.v
1 x boost reference fuel regulator
1 x front mount intercooler (core size 600x300x76)
3 inch s/steel merge dump pipe with o2 sensor bung
Teflon braided oil feed lines, vclamps, oil sender t
Teflon oil drain lines gaskets and fittings
3 inch pod filter.

Is there anything else that will be needed for this kit? i know about intercooler piping but will the engine be able to handle the extra power?

Has anyone had experiance with Turbo on the I6 with snort or know anything about the Snort kits?
Any Help would be awesome,
thanks chris

[Cam]

question is, how much power are you after?

[big_fletch]

im after enough that it will throw me back into the seat and just take off without going to overboard.. if that makes sence

[b2tf]

Originally Posted by big_fletch

im after enough that it will throw me back into the seat and just take off without going to overboard.. if that makes sence

bolt it on, drive round with it for a while, and then make your decision from there.

[StealthAu]

you'll also need a flash tuner, and custom tuning

[JC]

The snort stage 1 or 2 kits are OK for a stock I6 engine. You may need an edit if you want to go more than about 6 or 8 psi though.

Send a PM to turbotaxi, he has turboed an AU wagon, so can tell you all the bits and pieces you will need, and also what issues you may have.

[private9]

Originally Posted by big_fletch

im after enough that it will throw me back into the seat and just take off without going to overboard.. if that makes sence

What goes hard to one person, may be a slug to another, so it's a bit hard to advise on what's enough!

I've got a snort kit in my car, and I believe it's been on for a few years now, with no issue that I'm aware of, other than a leaking turbo oil return - apparently snort have changed their design to cure this issue now.

[blackers10]

on fordmods.com there is a thread on boosting the 4ltr.. but just keep in mind its an AU motor you have not EL so the pistons are different

depending how old your motor is it should handle it if its low km.. but high kays your gonna run into trouble sooner or later

alot of guys buy a buggered motor and rebuild it to handle turbo power then just unbolt yours and put the new one in

[The Monty]

Add on : Turbo blanket if you want one ($163), gauges ($200-$300), gauge holder ($100), wiring ($5), new OXY sensor if needed ($60), CAPA flash tuner ($495), 3 inch exhaust or bigger ($1000), tuning ($1000), injectors ($200), transmission cooler (a BIG one) ($150), catch can ($80), battery relocation kit ($150), turbo timer (if needed) ($50), so another $3700 in parts if you can do the install yourself.
This is why I gave up on the turbo, its the parts that you dont think about needing, that arent in the kits, that you dont budget for.
Engine should be fine with a bit of boost, if it blows, a new (or newer one) one from the wreckers is $400, so thats no biggie.

[Cam]

Originally Posted by The Monty

Add on : Turbo blanket if you want one ($163), gauges ($200-$300), gauge holder ($100), wiring ($5), new OXY sensor if needed ($60), CAPA flash tuner ($495), 3 inch exhaust or bigger ($1000), tuning ($1000), injectors ($200), transmission cooler (a BIG one) ($150), catch can ($80), battery relocation kit ($150), turbo timer (if needed) ($50), so another $3700 in parts if you can do the install yourself.
This is why I gave up on the turbo, its the parts that you dont think about needing, that arent in the kits, that you dont budget for.
Engine should be fine with a bit of boost, if it blows, a new (or newer one) one from the wreckers is $400, so thats no biggie.

and engineering if you want it to be legal, can be $$$$ depending on what state your in

[The Monty]

Engineering is no problem in QLD, and costs very little. Also, with turbo and insurance, my insurance was going to be LESS when I turboed it, work that one out.

[Cam]

Originally Posted by The Monty

Engineering is no problem in QLD, and costs very little. Also, with turbo and insurance, my insurance was going to be LESS when I turboed it, work that one out.

Hrmm, maybe i should bolt a couple of snails on the stroker! :

[StealthAu]

Originally Posted by The Monty

Engineering is no problem in QLD, and costs very little. Also, with turbo and insurance, my insurance was going to be LESS when I turboed it, work that one out.

What were the prices n/a and turbo'd and what company? Also, your list of goods required covers pretty much everything and there really wasn't much more for you to spend so why did you can the idea?

[The Monty]

I decided to go NA first. Ill see how I go there, and when I reach its limits, Ill go supercharged. The main thing for me was install, drilling the sump, running oil lines, and crap like that, cutting the inner guards for intercooler piping. Just too much stuffing around.
For insurance, Just Cars, $1200 full comp on my Monty, all my mods that you guys know, or Turbo, a huge amount of modifications were listed, and it was $1190, lol. Work that one out.

[StealthAu]

There is also the option of water to air intercoolers, no need to cut inner gaurds.

[blackers10]

but not as efficent as the air to air item and costs more to setup to begin with (as evident with the $500 extra on the snort kit with the Water to Air setup)

[StealthAu]

Sorry but you are wrong. They are more efficent then an air to air in almost all ways. They are better with pressure drop, only a 0.5psi drop at 16psi, and with the right set up will keep temps alot cooler then a front mount air to air is capable of. With the water to air it is all about how much water you have in the system and the size of the heat exchange, I recall reading in a mag a year or two back, a BA with the capa item plus 10l water tank hiden inside the gaurd, pumping out over 300rwkws, after several hours of trashing it on a circuit pleinum temps were bellow 30 deg C.
Cost is an issue if you look on Capa's website, however here is the exact same item at a much more reasonable price.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA:IT&ih=003

[BLKPHN]

I found the snort kit a great start for turboing the 4ltr i was the one who built private 9's it has a AuII engine, there is a few other things that all ways need to be done as mentioned in above posts. I would go for it mate as most extra cost you can get away with at first. and add on later eg exhaust, injectors etc etc. but a word of warning once you go boost you never go back!!!! hence owning a xr8 and deciding a F6 is a much better option.

tristan

[blackers10]

stockoau it depends on the application

and if tis supercharged its different again(less temp)
this is covered in another thread and a post by BLUEPRINT explained it.. given hes a cooling system consultant.. hed know;)

[StealthAu]

Well I'm no expert, I have no qualifications, so maybe he can shed some light on my following theories and advise if I have half a clue.
With water to air, cooling efficiency is determined by 3 things, size of the core in the cooler, size of the heat exchange and amount of water in the system. Logic says without sufficient water, heat soak will become more of an issue. Now with the issue of pressure drop, to me, it makes sense that the water to air items are superior in this field as the volume between the turbo and throttle body is reduced in comparison to an air to air with similar cooling capabilities. In my opinion, although it is worth sfa, a front mount air to air would be more of an option for lesser intake temp issues, as the greater the cooling efficiency required the larger the surface area has to be for it to work. Using a large front mount instead of a water to air, increases engine temps by reducing the efficiency of the radiator. I have been looking into these and many other options for quite some time now, but in reality, if you have a read of this, it all comes down to common sense.