Q's re Auto, Hi-stall etc...

FRDGAL · 16-03-2008, 01:02 AM

Hey Guys

I have a few questions for you all.

I had a reco auto fitted yesterday as mine was buggered. The hi-stall didn't look good either so it was removed (it's welded shut so it has to be sent off & checked) and a stock converter was fitted (for now). The battery was disconnected after this work was done so my question is do I need to re-flash? (car has the edit) Not sure whether it's necessary to do it. It drives fine. Really doesn't feel different other than there not being the stally in it. Am I suppose to re-flash it though or?

The hi-stall is going to be sent off to be checked. It's the JMM3000. Depending on the report on it, I'm not sure whether to keep it or go with a TCE or Dominator 2800. Although I have heard that the JMM one is a re-badged and re-painted Dominator but whether that's right or not, I don't know. Any opinions on which stally to go with or should I stick with mine? The 3000 was matched to work with the cam that's in it. I doubt a 2800 will be much different will it?

Is it true that if you fit a 2nd hand stall into your car, that there could be contamination from the previous auto? And if this is so, could something like that be the reason the car was constantly going into LHM? Because I've spoken to few people about this over the last couple of weeks and they've all pretty much said the same thing - that the 3000 should not have caused issues with LHM and are surprised it did before the edit sorted it out.

Thanks
Krissy.

**Stav** · 16-03-2008, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRDGAL

Hey Guys

I have a few questions for you all.

I had a reco auto fitted yesterday as mine was buggered. The hi-stall didn't look good either so it was removed (it's welded shut so it has to be sent off & checked) and a stock converter was fitted (for now). The battery was disconnected after this work was done so my question is do I need to re-flash? (car has the edit) Not sure whether it's necessary to do it. It drives fine. Really doesn't feel different other than there not being the stally in it. Am I suppose to re-flash it though or?

The hi-stall is going to be sent off to be checked. It's the JMM3000. Depending on the report on it, I'm not sure whether to keep it or go with a TCE or Dominator 2800. Although I have heard that the JMM one is a re-badged and re-painted Dominator but whether that's right or not, I don't know. Any opinions on which stally to go with or should I stick with mine? The 3000 was matched to work with the cam that's in it. I doubt a 2800 will be much different will it?

Is it true that if you fit a 2nd hand stall into your car, that there could be contamination from the previous auto? And if this is so, could something like that be the reason the car was constantly going into LHM? Because I've spoken to few people about this over the last couple of weeks and they've all pretty much said the same thing - that the 3000 should not have caused issues with LHM and are surprised it did before the edit sorted it out.

Thanks
Krissy.

Hi mate.Hope you are all well . My box died last December and I got a new one and had the converter removed first thing in the morning and drove the car out in the afternoon.It was sent to a converter shop where it had to be opened up cleaned ,checked for wear and fixed if necessary. Yes it is true the stall converter must be cleaned when installing a reco box as any residual leftovers from the last box can blow the new box.

If the car idles properly and accelerates well then you don't have to worry about a retune.

The car would not go into limp home mode from the contamination. I believe it is heat.In saying that a few AU'S on the forum run dominator converters and still got limp home mode.

I would highly reccomend you speak to torque converter industries here in Seven hills. My converter is around 2500 to 2800 ..never had limp home and while its been 2 years at 320 dollars was a steal.Why pay more? I have a cooler and have since installed a transmission temperature gauge.My car actually got cooler going down the 1/4 mile.
Cheers
Stav

blackers10 · 16-03-2008, 10:42 AM

ive heard around the traps that OVER 3000 the comptuer goes oh crap the autos rooted and goes into LHM as it detects what IT thinks is slip in the box/converter

i have a 2800 and drive around in D all day long and it never has an issue

but i know of another guy with a NL fairlane 4ltr that at the drags kept dropping into LHM as he stalled too high at the line

im running a red diamond stall from QCES

MADED-6 · 16-03-2008, 11:48 AM

i have a 3000rpm stally and it will go to 3500rpm if i put the foot down heaps i dont no about off the line as it starts to spin at about 2500rpm as the tyres dont hold the road.
but i have never had limp home problems and actually thought the flasher would helps this. mine is flashed not tuned properly but it is flashed and they havent touched the shift points so once i get that done should be better.
wat happened to ur auto was it just a stock auto?
maybe u should get it one rebuilt with kevlar bands and stronger clutch packs?
thats wat mine has and it also has stage 2 shift kit but wen driving normal shifts firm but not real harsh but when giving it to it shifts real nice.
cheers josh.

mik · 16-03-2008, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FRDGAL

Hey Guys

I have a few questions for you all.

I had a reco auto fitted yesterday as mine was buggered. The hi-stall didn't look good either so it was removed (it's welded shut so it has to be sent off & checked) and a stock converter was fitted (for now). The battery was disconnected after this work was done so my question is do I need to re-flash? (car has the edit) Not sure whether it's necessary to do it. It drives fine. Really doesn't feel different other than there not being the stally in it. Am I suppose to re-flash it though or?

The hi-stall is going to be sent off to be checked. It's the JMM3000. Depending on the report on it, I'm not sure whether to keep it or go with a TCE or Dominator 2800. Although I have heard that the JMM one is a re-badged and re-painted Dominator but whether that's right or not, I don't know. Any opinions on which stally to go with or should I stick with mine? The 3000 was matched to work with the cam that's in it. I doubt a 2800 will be much different will it?

Is it true that if you fit a 2nd hand stall into your car, that there could be contamination from the previous auto? And if this is so, could something like that be the reason the car was constantly going into LHM? Because I've spoken to few people about this over the last couple of weeks and they've all pretty much said the same thing - that the 3000 should not have caused issues with LHM and are surprised it did before the edit sorted it out.

Thanks
Krissy.

i don`t know about the limp home mode, but my old f series had a convertor from a wreckers it did`nt take long for small metal particles to contaminate the auto and cover the filter mesh and the auto to play up ,after removing the the valve body i found some of the valves binding up from small metal particles after a dissasemble and clean then a full flush it ran ok for a while .......not long down the track same thing occured all over again, did the same thing all over again :( there was less metal particles but none the less some still got through the filter to the valve body and made valves very sticky, another dissasemble and clean and full flush seemed to do the trick it went fine for the next couple of years, one other thing when i was a young whipper snapper apprentice at bayfords (who had their own transmission shop) in the sevice department we fitted many auto`s we had the police contract at the time, there was a certain amount of reco auto`s fitted that came back with problems, the blokes in the transmission shop worked out that grit in the auto lines and radiator auto cooler from the previouse auto contaminated the the reco auto, it became procedure to flush the cooler and lines out with kerosene, then auto oil then air this was in early x series but i would think modern auto`s are still just as suseptible to grit, sorry for the long winded post, i`m no tranny expert just passing on my experience`s.

FRDGAL · 16-03-2008, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stav

Yes it is true the stall converter must be cleaned when installing a reco box as any residual leftovers from the last box can blow the new box

So it's possible then that when the converter was first fitted to my car, that my auto was contaminated by the previous owners car? Interesting. Can only speculate for now but we'll see what the guys say when they open it up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stav

The car would not go into limp home mode from the contamination. I believe it is heat

But I've got the biggest cooler that can be fitted. If that can't keep the heat under control, what will? Seems to me the safest way to go would be 2800. No LHM or heat issues with a slightly smaller stall. The 3000 was only fitted for the track work. Since I no longer race it what's the point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mik

i don`t know about the limp home mode, but my old f series had a convertor from a wreckers it did`nt take long for small metal particles to contaminate the auto and cover the filter mesh and the auto to play up

That's what happened to mine except mine hadn't yet started playing up. The problem was found in time. I had booked it in for a general service and that's when the problem was found. Metal particles! Oil was as black as night and spraying everywhere. Which explains something else - at my last tune-up I was told there was a slight leak in the rear of the box and told to service the auto at 135,000. I hit 132,000 and thought I may aswell get it out of the way and well, no wonder there was a slight leak when there was oil spraying everywhere inside it!