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Old 09-11-2008, 12:37 AM   #1
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Default IRS wheel bearings

I've already replace one rear wheel bearing and it was a of a job, it was that had to press the bearing out that i actually bent the holder, stub axle? trying to do so, Anyway i now have a very very noisy rear wheel bearing again, which i put down to the cv joint coming lose a few weeks ago and after i retighted it, its now noisy.

Anyway is there any easy way to do these? preferably one that doesn't envolve me bending another mount stub thingy?

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Old 09-11-2008, 12:44 AM   #2
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Apparently it is an easier job to replace the whole hub.

Personally I think replacing the entire CV shaft is an easier job.
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:48 AM   #3
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The problem isn't the hub side its on the out side of the bearing where it fits into the stub thingy thats the hard bit to press in/out, trying to get this dam car good enough to drive to albury, wouldn't be a nice thing if i got stuck half way with seize wheel bearing.
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:22 PM   #4
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there isnt an easy way and check ur hub for wear i have replaced 3 wheel bearings in mine now on one side i cracked the stub axle and a new one from a wreckers was $275 that was the cheapest i could find aswell.
but the other side i did it then about 2-3months later it was noisy again and i needed a hub which was $250 from ford just for the hub and noone else had any.
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:31 PM   #5
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hmmm i'm not 100% but i think this is the side i had already done (i did both this car and the fairlane at same time, one on drivers, one on passenger).

I'll jack it up in a minute and have a look, if the hub is stuffed, how would i tell?
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:12 PM   #6
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Ok well cars jacked up breaks off, turning it doesn't feel very nice at all, i moved everything out of the way and started car up on starts to let hub spin, very noisy at hub but also the cv joint just behind it is flicking grease out but i think its only due to the angle its on. Just waiting for 3/4 socket set to undo the cv and then see whats noisy
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:35 PM   #7
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if there is movement when the drioveshaft nut is undone then it'll most likely need a hub mine used to move heaps when driveshaft nut undone then i replaced the stub axle on one side and the hub and wheel bearing on the other side now they dont move even when its undone.
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:02 PM   #8
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hmmm well either i want a 2nd hand good condition unit or im gonna just take the stub axle and hub stuff into pedders and just get them to do it, I can't be stuffed with it after the hassles i had last time. And I highly doubt that i'd be able to get a bearing for it at 4pm on a sunday.
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:53 PM   #9
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I can give you a phone number of a bloke that will sell you a CV shaft with a hub on it for a good price provided he has one. Paid $150 each for mine.
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Old 09-11-2008, 07:34 PM   #10
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i did my wheel bearings about 5 months ago.... mine was a pig of a job also, i started one side first, my mate has 30 ton press, but pressing the bearings out was bending his press big time and no movement it looked very risky, so i put it back together as i need the car, the next day i spoke to a boss at the local ford dealer, he said he dreads every time someone asks for this particular job they have 2x 50 ton presses, one is currently broken from the recent encounter with au irs wheel bearings not to mention pressing tools and possible injuries to his blokes, apparently some are severly hard to get off and some are ok, this was the auto trans section he said when your ready ask at service section tell them i sent you (their press is still working) and we will get it done (good attitude ), with that i thanked him and went home, i thought about buying the whole assembly there must be an easier way..........the more i thought about it the better it sounded hmmm whole new hub,wheel studs, upright and bushes, new bearings, backing plate, the next day i rang spare parts and it was very expensive too much for this bloke :(, back to the drawing board, ok there is a diff place down the road .......i gave the Diff guy a bit of a quiz, $300 a side (remove and refit bearings) he also said he hates doing them, any way the next day i removed the hub assemblies, i got bearings from the local bearing supplier 80$ each (german made very nice) took them down ....CARRIED 2 hub assemblies about a kilometre, (wont do that again ...oh the pain ), the next day i get a phone call we have bent 2 backing plates getting the old bearings out ... we can have a go at straightening them or i can get neweys for x amount ...it was`nt much i told him go ahead, next day phone call comes all done whenever you want to pick them up, i picked them up .....took a trolley this time , was happy with job, did`nt take long to put back together, new hub nuts $20 x 2 , all done, actually ford would have done the job for less money, but the diff place was walking distance ,some little jobs turn out big jobs ...............................woops sorry for the double post can a moderator delete post 10 thanks , note self dont drink while typing.

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Old 09-11-2008, 08:03 PM   #11
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haha lol at least im not the only one bent a 30ton press trying last time, in the end we did with a hammer and oxy, hey russell does that hub come with the actual bearing and suspension arm that the bearing is in? If so pm me his number please and i'll give him a bell, try to get one tomorrow
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Old 09-11-2008, 08:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0whiteaughia
haha lol at least im not the only one bent a 30ton press trying last time, in the end we did with a hammer and oxy, hey russell does that hub come with the actual bearing and suspension arm that the bearing is in? If so pm me his number please and i'll give him a bell, try to get one tomorrow
Yep, comes with everything hub/bearing/shaft related. Fixed mine that way.

I'll PM you his details now.
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Old 09-11-2008, 09:26 PM   #13
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yeah could u shoot me a pm with his number it would be a good number to have.
cheers josh.
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Old 10-11-2008, 12:33 PM   #14
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Ok so along russell's suggestion looks like im going to swap over the whole cradle with xr8 one, i rang pedders anyway, they don't do em, he gave me a number to a diff joint, they don't do em. so looks like anyone wanting to put in a new wheel bearing is stuck with getting a 2nd hand unit.
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Old 10-11-2008, 12:42 PM   #15
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Stupid new eBay search is rubbish, wouldn't let me find anything under AU IRS. BS.

Opted out of that, typed in AU IRS and found http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-FALCON-t...2em118Q2el1247
Same manufacturer that made them and the shafts in the first place.
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Old 10-11-2008, 12:52 PM   #16
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lol i'd be looking on ebay for wheel bearings just to see, and couldn't find anything.

I should have pointed out that you can get the bearings just cant seem get anyone to remove/fit the new one in.

No point me trying anymore i'm going the whole cradle swap now, minds made up. Not only do i get a 3.45 LSD rear end, it has a swaybar, which mine doesn't, and i'd have a working handbrake again, mine fell apart.

He also mention S2 rear brakes which are apparently better than S1, so win win win all round.
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Old 10-11-2008, 01:11 PM   #17
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Remember if it gets up over $550 just go to the bloke I told you about. He has an SI & an SII there.

While you have it apart it is a good idea to put some new hand brake shoes in. $50 a side and about 5 minutes once you have the rotors off. I can even get you the PBR part number for the SII ones if you want them.
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Old 10-11-2008, 01:19 PM   #18
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Yeah i'm not going to bother with ebay auction the guy can't meet me at a time that suits me to pick it up, and i reckon it'll go for arounr $400 which with having to drive to werribee, and so on.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=180304122808

This guys obviously wrecked an XR8 cause he has other stuff for sale too.

The guy you gave me the number for said $500 for either unit, so i'd say i'll go the S2 unit.
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Old 10-11-2008, 01:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0whiteaughia
Yeah i'm not going to bother with ebay auction the guy can't meet me at a time that suits me to pick it up, and i reckon it'll go for arounr $400 which with having to drive to werribee, and so on.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=180304122808

This guys obviously wrecked an XR8 cause he has other stuff for sale too.

The guy you gave me the number for said $500 for either unit, so i'd say i'll go the S2 unit.
If you do get it just try not to cry when you see the T2 TE50 in his garage, he promised he's going to repair it lol.
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Old 10-11-2008, 01:40 PM   #20
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Oh. :
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:26 PM   #21
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Default loose hub after complete bearing change

Quote:
Originally Posted by MADED-6
if there is movement when the drioveshaft nut is undone then it'll most likely need a hub mine used to move heaps when driveshaft nut undone then i replaced the stub axle on one side and the hub and wheel bearing on the other side now they dont move even when its undone.
cheers josh.
Hi there, this is my first post. I have tried the tech resources and searching posts but cannot find direct detail on this.

I have an AU2 XR8 S2, just had the rear wheel bearing and hub replaced. The wheel was still loose when I got the car back home. With the wheel on, the outer edge of the wheel would move +/-5mm. I took it back and the mechanic just re-tightened the pack nut and it says it is now tight.


Is that acceptable to have freeplay on the hub after fitment of a new bearing and hub? Is simply tightening the crap out of the pack nut a valid solution ?

How are you meant to tighten a pack nut and fit the cage? Can you just tighten it without undoing the cage?

Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 06-01-2009, 03:48 PM   #22
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according to the manual the pac nuts should be replaced once removed, in a pinch i re used mine but used locktite to make sure it stays on, should be no virtually no free play in the hub.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:38 AM   #23
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I have had to replace both my rear wheel bearings in the last 8 months, very expensive exercise, had one done in SA coming back from NSW and the other at automasters midland, so got 12 mth warranty on them both, pain in the butt but it handles a lot better now. Stropp
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Old 09-01-2009, 07:38 AM   #24
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Thanks for the info on the pac-nut. In the end, the new bearing and hub was loose, the only way to get rid of that freeplay was to ensure the pacnut was very tight. My pacnut kept coming loose.
They had to replace the pacnut and tighten it 325Nm (Ford spec) and now there is no freeplay in the hub. Hopefully this is ok.
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