NEW 'Sniper' coils for 6T's!!!!!!!

[JasonACT]

I got a generic note from my tuner, for my flash unit he programmed.

It says you must set your plug gaps to 0.75mm or the car will misfire. BA-BF turbo only. FG turbo plug gaps are OK at std gaps.

(Mine is an FG. Also says, all turbo engines must run on 98 Octane.)

[arronm]

$200

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-...L/300992973718

[Cashie]

Originally Posted by QUIKXR6T

No it ISNT Cat007 as i have just proven!!!!!!!

The boost pressure obviously blows the spark off the plug under high load.

I just been driving quite hard before and damn it goes much better now...

Def not stock this project car i really want to throw it on BPRD Dyno and find out if its been tuned already.....

It goes very well and spools up quick as!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Isn’t it still misfiring?

[GASWAGON]

Originally Posted by Cashie

Isn’t it still misfiring?

Sometimes while idling AFTER giving it a bootfull???

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by QUIKXR6T

Mate, the ****ing compressor housing is bigger than a stock 6T turbo cos i has the ****ing thing off to replace the gaskets

SO, obvoiulsy, more fuking air is being pumped in than stock!!!!!!!!!!!!

I ****ing told you .....' it aint stock'!!!!!!!!!!!

You were asking for help so there's is no need to be abusive when someones suggestion doesn't agree with your ideas.

As for 'blowing the spark off the plug' I have never ever heard of that.......

I wonder how the supercharged engines manage not to do it

[Blue Dog]

Originally Posted by JasonACT

I got a generic note from my tuner, for my flash unit he programmed.

It says you must set your plug gaps to 0.75mm or the car will misfire. BA-BF turbo only. FG turbo plug gaps are OK at std gaps.

(Mine is an FG. Also says, all turbo engines must run on 98 Octane.)

(Mine is an FG. Also says, all turbo engines must run on 98 Octane.)

NSW Highway Patrol run E10 in the turbo falcons.
98 in the Commodores.

[JasonACT]

Sorry, I should have been more clear.. It was referring to once programmed with his tune - they all must then use 98. That's also the reason I wouldn't change to a different brand of coil, they may be good with a stock program (maybe even better) but I'm pretty happy with what I've got and it would risk needing another tune. That would put the final price of using different coils much higher for little reason.

[Blue Dog]

Originally Posted by QUIKXR6T

No it ISNT Cat007 as i have just proven!!!!!!!

The boost pressure obviously blows the spark off the plug under high load.

I just been driving quite hard before and damn it goes much better now...

Def not stock this project car i really want to throw it on BPRD Dyno and find out if its been tuned already.....

It goes very well and spools up quick as!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Re:

"The boost pressure obviously blows the spark off the plug under high load".

Impossible!

How can the boost pressure possibly blow the spark off the plug?

Think about it............

The intake valve opens.........
The air & fuel mix passes through the intake valves.......
The valves close as the piston is on its way down the cylinder......
The piston gets to the bottom of its stroke & then travels back up the cylinder, with both intake & exhaust valves closed.....

When it's nearly at the top of its stroke, the spark plug fires & the piston is forced back down the cylinder.

It's the density of the fuel air mix that creates the problem with ignition.

[arronm]

Originally Posted by QUIKXR6T

Sometimes while idling AFTER giving it a bootfull???

Sounds like valve springs. Are yours stock BA?

[JasonACT]

I'd agree with the air/fuel thing, but also..

My understanding is, increasing the plug gap size increases the time it takes for the spark to form. You need a certain amount of volts for a spark to jump a particular distance - and the coil ramps up to that voltage - it can't produce it instantly.

But this is probably not going to misfire, it just won't produce all the power you are expecting.

[arronm]

Originally Posted by Blue Dog

Re:

"The boost pressure obviously blows the spark off the plug under high load".

Impossible!

How can the boost pressure possibly blow the spark off the plug?

Think about it............

The intake valve opens.........
The air & fuel mix passes through the intake valves.......
The valves close as the piston is on its way down the cylinder......
The piston gets to the bottom of its stroke & then travels back up the cylinder, with both intake & exhaust valves closed.....

When it's nearly at the top of its stroke, the spark plug fires & the piston is forced back down the cylinder.

It's the density of the fuel air mix that creates the problem with ignition.

Correct, but we call it spark blow out. But people think the spark is literally blown out by high boost.

We could leave the large gap and increase the voltage. OR keep the stock system and reduce the gap.

https://youtu.be/1mD9Ye-ygso

[Bossxr8]

Originally Posted by QUIKXR6T

Mate, the ****ing compressor housing is bigger than a stock 6T turbo cos i has the ****ing thing off to replace the gaskets

SO, obvoiulsy, more ****ing air is being pumped in than stock!!!!!!!!!!!!

I ****ing told you .....' it aint stock'!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice anger issues.

Got you mixed up with the other thread with the guy with the stock BA Turbo having misfire issues due to bad coils.

[cat007]

Originally Posted by QUIKXR6T

Mate, the ****ing compressor housing is bigger than a stock 6T turbo cos i has the ****ing thing off to replace the gaskets

SO, obvoiulsy, more ****ing air is being pumped in than stock!!!!!!!!!!!!

I ****ing told you .....' it aint stock'!!!!!!!!!!!

Woah - calm down son.

Unless you're running a LOT more boost than stock, i.e. you've had a tune done and pushing 15-18PSI, a 1-1.1mm gap is not going to be causing your under load issues. Closing the gap to 0.7mm to resolve the issue on a MOSTLY STOCK Barra is just masking the real problem. Have you checked all earths?

Originally Posted by QUIKXR6T

Sometimes while idling AFTER giving it a bootfull???

Tell me how will a tighter gap help with this idling problem if you're talking about the spark being "blown out"? I doubt she's making >15PSI at idle

[GASWAGON]

Tell you y...cos the ****wit atmy Bursons toil;d me this and reckons he úsed to work for NGK.' for 15 years.

I apolisgise Cat007 as your 4 stroke cycle is correct.

BPRD did meteion that BA's can break conrods when pushed to far AND they can also suffer from 'valve float' while under hesavy load ie Valve springs too soft.

Thanks guys i have just realised and solved what the problem is.

New valve springs and Dyno test just to find out its max power output is coming soon!!!!!!!!!!

[GASWAGON]

C uz on the road............. SKEGGS!!!!!!!!!!!

[NCII40]

so the sniper coils weren't the problem ?

[arronm]

Originally Posted by BF260-BOSS

Tell you y...cos the ****wit atmy Bursons toil;d me this and reckons he úsed to work for NGK.' for 15 years.

I apolisgise Cat007 as your 4 stroke cycle is correct.

BPRD did meteion that BA's can break conrods when pushed to far AND they can also suffer from 'valve float' while under hesavy load ie Valve springs too soft.

Thanks guys i have just realised and solved what the problem is.

New valve springs and Dyno test just to find out its max power output is coming soon!!!!!!!!!!

Its not valve float as such. Its the high boost pressure blowing the closed valves off their seats.

[fnp]

Aside from coils, I found my both my BA and FG only like the standard Ford plugs too. Anything other plug (NGK, Bosch, etc) would start misfiring under load within 15k or so.

[MercuryT]

Originally Posted by Franco Cozzo

OEM coils are good quality - stick with the genuine Ford stuff.

I know an old post Franco but no definitely not. I went through multiple sets in quick time.

I can't remember which brand I eventually bought (off EBay) and they were great, never failed again but Ford were overpriced crap imo (plugs too)

I tried a few snake oil coils !!

BF Ford original saw my highest mph and dyno readings...

Yes I tried them all...

[arronm]

Originally Posted by MercuryT

I know an old post Franco but no definitely not. I went through multiple sets in quick time.

I can't remember which brand I eventually bought (off EBay) and they were great, never failed again but Ford were overpriced crap imo (plugs too)

General consensus says stock ford coils are the best.

[Fed]

I think most coil problems are caused by carbon contamination on the plugs & coil shrouds.
I'd explain why but it's embarrassing and might not make sense unless you were an electrician.

[Citroënbender]

In light of that, what about the shading of rust that sometimes creeps up the insulator when wells get damp? I’ve often been suss about this as a possible source of spark leakage.

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by MercuryT

I know an old post Franco but no definitely not. I went through multiple sets in quick time.

I can't remember which brand I eventually bought (off EBay) and they were great, never failed again but Ford were overpriced crap imo (plugs too)

The parts specified by OE meet more stringent testing to their own or industry standards than the aftermarket stuff does.

This car is making 1028KW/wheels on the factory ignition system until they started running into problems with it.



I'd say there's other issues with the electrical system if it was frying the factory coils repeatedly, if you get a bad earth on the electronics side of the coil/ignition system, that'll do it pretty quick smart.

[Citroënbender]

I used to see a lot of audiophile argument about star vs point-point earthing, interesting it doesn’t seem to come up in highly stressed automotive applications.