32/36 DGAV idle mixture screw

[EskyLife]

I’ve got an issue with my escort where it was fine, and now suddenly won’t idle once warmed up. It starts fine, idles on choke but once up to temp and choke cuts out it will run when revs are kept up to it, but if you lit it drop to idle it stalls out.

I’ve been doing some research and a two main things have come up as possible auses.

- vacuum leak
- blocked idle jet

I’m not sure it’s a vacuum leak, at least not around the carb gaskets at a spray over the carb when running didn’t cause a surge. So I’m was leaning towards an issue with the idle jet.

I was looking over the carb before pulling it off to send away for a service, and noticed something funny with the idle mixture screw. Every picture/diagram I’ve seen shows the screw and spring projecting from the housing. But on my carb, the screw looks to be buried deep within the housing.

Here is a pic of the idle mixture screw location on my carb.



It doesn’t seem like this would cause a sudden inability to idle, but it’s not right is it?

[Rallye Sport]

That looks right, heres one of my carbs.





I did notice the rubber on mine was rock hard and is due for replacement.
One thing to look at would be the fuel filter, even if its been replaced. If blocked it may not be supplying enough fuel and the choke may be making the reduced amount just rich enough for the engine to run.
Theres also a filter in the carb and in the tank, pull the line off past the fuel pump and see if the tank filter is flowing too.

Either way, you're right, by now the carb would benefit from a clean and kit, pretty easy to do yourself.
Theres also lots of scope to increase performance, if you're running a sports filter you can easily up the main jet from 130 to 135/137 with the increased airflow.

Depending on how serious you want to get, some airhorns will also be a benefit, a couple of examples

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecId=1254

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=31519

This article has some interesting ideas for achieving maximum performance

http://www.thelolaregistry.com/DIY/Weber.htm

[EskyLife]

So after few days stalling (no pun intended), I decided to pull the carb off my mk2 escort and send it away for a rebuild.

In doing so I thought it would be a good time to document the butchered fuel and vacuum system on my car... For anyone that's interested, here is a link to a PDF with my photos and notes.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oevecc8lrf...lines.pdf?dl=0

Any feedback from the community with regard to bits that should be connected/reconnected, or can be entirely removed to tidy things up without causing issues is welcome.

I had previously posted about this, but this time round it's a little more comprehensively documented.

[Rallye Sport]

Buy the Gregorys manual. It will answer all of those questions and any others you have in the future. You're welcome...

[coo]

Any feedback from the community with regard to bits that should be connected/reconnected, or can be entirely removed to tidy things up without causing issues is welcome.

Do yourself a favour and replace all the screws, bolts and coach screws with proper caps.


Importantly, fix the perished fuel line (which is under pump pressure) that feeds the carby.




To get a carby running properly, all the basics have to be perfect. Only then can you focus on fuel and air adjustments.