Confused about thread lockers

[fordfalconbaxr6]

Hi

I've seen the odd references to using stuff like loctite, but I'm a bit confused about when to use it and which strength to use.

If I use the strongest, does that mean that bolt/screw will be almost impossible to undo?

For example, what should I use on brake calipers or on an oil filter adaptor for the holes I dont use or on an underdrive bolt???

[Windsor220]

At work, the only things I use it on are torque converter bolts and sometimes tailshaft bolts. I havent seen a brake caliper bolt come loose yet without it. People like to use it as insurance but I personally dont think its needed except for a couple of situations like above.

If you use general thread locker, the bolt wont be impossible to remove unless you've absolutely coated the thing in the stuff. . It will be just a little tighter than normal.

[1970galaxie]

And I thought this thread was going to be about our moderators locking threads!

[ea90gl]

Originally Posted by 1970galaxie

And I thought this thread was going to be about our moderators locking threads!

lol same here, to the thread locker like above I have never seen a bolt come loose from any work I have done as long as its torqued properly but if you do want to use it just use a small amount, and if you ever find yourself stuck removing a bolt you've used thread lock on just heat it up and it should make things alot easier when you undo it

[plext]

Originally Posted by 1970galaxie

And I thought this thread was going to be about our moderators locking threads!

I will never quite understand how I resisted the temptation.

[andrewr]

Originally Posted by Torxteer

At work, the only things I use it on are torque converter bolts and sometimes tailshaft bolts. I havent seen a brake caliper bolt come loose yet without it. People like to use it as insurance but I personally dont think its needed except for a couple of situations like above.

I agree with that.. We use it at work a lot in high vibration areas, or for locking studs (on boats not cars though). For general threadlocking use 242 (or 243 in some cases). These can be removed with hand tools. If you want the sucker locked in use 262. This can be removed by heating the bolt but can be a pain in the butt. Personally I don't often see the need for 262.

On cars I rarely use it..It is good insurance to use a few drops of 242 if you are worried about a bolt vibrating loose and you can't use other methods of threadlocking (ie nyloc etc).

Just my 2c anyway..

[fte50]

Mate, depending on how you sleep at night, thread lockers are a must on crucial items eg : caliper mounts, suspension & steering parts etc. I agree with the other chap about tourqing bolts to correct tension, however as a fitter in the trade for 20 years i can tell you ive seen weird happen with fasteners, regardless of tensile strength and application.

On street use always use loctite 222. This is a great home use grade that prevents loosening by vibration or inadequate tension. Best of all it performs without having to bring out the oxy set when you have to remove them again. Remember both male & female threads MUST be primed with loctite primer or cleaned with electra clean / contact cleaner etc to remove oily residue and old glue - or the loctite wont take properly.

There are other grades available but they are to severe for street car application. Try 680 if you wanna stop your hubs from spinning.
FACT: Indy car regs stipulate that all fasteners on an Indy car MUST be loctited.
Hope this helps.

[The Yeti]

go to the loctite site (Im to lazy to go and then post the link) they have a chart for different loctites for diffent aplications.

I'm to biger tight ar$e t ouse it on every thing but certain things like TQ bolts etc get it with out fail

[V8falcons]

Originally Posted by andrewr

I agree with that.. We use it at work a lot in high vibration areas, or for locking studs (on boats not cars though). For general threadlocking use 242 (or 243 in some cases). These can be removed with hand tools. If you want the sucker locked in use 262. This can be removed by heating the bolt but can be a pain in the butt. Personally I don't often see the need for 262.

On cars I rarely use it..It is good insurance to use a few drops of 242 if you are worried about a bolt vibrating loose and you can't use other methods of threadlocking (ie nyloc etc).

Just my 2c anyway..

Have to agree with you there, in the print industry,in our drive box's,PIVs and gear assemblies,we only use 243,(262 super stud/screw lock ocaisionally for high speed applications) for bolts,screw,nuts. Just a thin line up the thread is more than enough for general use.But I rarely come across bolts with 262 that cant be removed ,there is no need to use too much loctite that its is irremovable as you(someone anyway) will have to remove it in its life time.

And 609 for bearing assemblies when tolerances are a little on the + side of the bearing,if all else fails the good ole centre punch is a good tolerance enhancer for that quick fix.

[fordfalconbaxr6]

Originally Posted by 1970galaxie

And I thought this thread was going to be about our moderators locking threads!

Originally Posted by plext

I will never quite understand how I resisted the temptation.

LOL . Sorry if I mislead anyone. I'm not confused about the AFF "thread lockers". They do a good job.

I'm taking my calipers off to paint them and change the disks Didn't want to get in wrong when I reassemble them so I might use some loctite on the calipers as insurance.

As always, really appreciate the info and time AFF members take to reply.

Thanks

[alecrain]

Originally Posted by 1970galaxie

And I thought this thread was going to be about our moderators locking threads!

same here

[dave289]

If you have a problem with a thread locker just fill his keyboard with plenty of loctite,this should solve the problem. :

[Silver Ghia]

Originally Posted by vctxr6ute

Have to agree with you there, in the print industry,in our drive box's,PIVs and gear assemblies,we only use 243,(262 super stud/screw lock ocaisionally for high speed applications) for bolts,screw,nuts. Just a thin line up the thread is more than enough for general use.But I rarely come across bolts with 262 that cant be removed ,there is no need to use too much loctite that its is irremovable as you(someone anyway) will have to remove it in its life time.

And 609 for bearing assemblies when tolerances are a little on the + side of the bearing,if all else fails the good ole centre punch is a good tolerance enhancer for that quick fix.

I keep the Loctite 243 here at home, its a good all-rounder Loctite of good strength, one use was for the brake calipers last year.

There's so many threadlockers around, I stick with the Loctite brand, I've specified various types at work for many years, works well. Its best to check their website catalogue to ensure the type you intend to use is the best for what you want to do.

[Green X]

The Basics
243> Locking Nut's and bolts. (Blue)
277> Same but is stronger (Red)
680> retaining compound If you never want to get it off LOL (Green)
569> Hydraulic, Fuel and oil system fittings. (Red)
567> Oil systems up to 180 degrees i think it is (White)

[XD 351 Ute]

Originally Posted by fte50

Mate, depending on how you sleep at night, thread lockers are a must on crucial items eg : caliper mounts, suspension & steering parts etc. I agree with the other chap about tourqing bolts to correct tension, however as a fitter in the trade for 20 years i can tell you ive seen weird happen with fasteners, regardless of tensile strength and application.

On street use always use loctite 222. This is a great home use grade that prevents loosening by vibration or inadequate tension. Best of all it performs without having to bring out the oxy set when you have to remove them again. Remember both male & female threads MUST be primed with loctite primer or cleaned with electra clean / contact cleaner etc to remove oily residue and old glue - or the loctite wont take properly.

There are other grades available but they are to severe for street car application. Try 680 if you wanna stop your hubs from spinning.
FACT: Indy car regs stipulate that all fasteners on an Indy car MUST be loctited.
Hope this helps.

Spot on post, the bit about cleaning the metal is very important.
Even more-so if the metal or material is non-ferrous or dis-similar.
You may get away without it on the odd occasion, but like fte50 said, how well do you want to sleep?

Ed

[Wally]

Originally Posted by fordfalconbaxr6

..................

I'm taking my calipers off to paint them and change the disks Didn't want to get in wrong when I reassemble them so I might use some loctite on the calipers as insurance.

............

Many OEM replacement pad kits come complete with new caliper screws, the threads pre coated with a thread locker adhesive. Not sure what the compound is used for GM, but it's P/N 12345493 which is equivalent to Permatex "High Temperature Threadlocker RED".... not to be confused with "High Strength Threadlocker RED"