|
|
|
|
|
|
Welcome to the Australian Ford Forums forum. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and inserts advertising. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features without post based advertising banners. Registration is simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us. Please Note: All new registrations go through a manual approval queue to keep spammers out. This is checked twice each day so there will be a delay before your registration is activated. |
|
|||||||
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
23-07-2009, 07:25 PM
|
#1 | ||
|
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Moe town... cheers leski put us on the map!
Posts: 63
|
g'day all just about to replace my front guard on my MK2 escort, just wondering what the easiest way to remove them as the good panel is still on a spare car.
i know you have to get a spot weld removing drill bit etc but just wondering what the easiest way/angle of aproach to replace the guard, cheers daniel |
||
|
|
|
16-08-2009, 04:45 PM
|
#2 | ||
|
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Moe town... cheers leski put us on the map!
Posts: 63
|
no help???
|
||
|
|
|
|
17-08-2009, 06:25 AM
|
#3 | ||
|
Rally Nut
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 297
|
hey mate, must have missed your question before
either grab yourself a spotweld drill or use a 5mm dril to drill thru the spots welds on the guard you want to keep on the car you can repeat the process or if you have a power file you can file the spots welds off on the dammaged guard leaving the inner guard intacked and front apron ready for rewelding I am no panel beater but I have done this a few times after many years of rallying and it seems to work well |
||
|
|
|
|
17-08-2009, 08:17 AM
|
#4 | ||
|
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Moe town... cheers leski put us on the map!
Posts: 63
|
ah yeah cheers, thanks for that, might have a loook today
|
||
|
|
|
|
17-08-2009, 09:39 AM
|
#5 | ||
|
Rally Nut
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 297
|
if you use a 5mm drill you still may have to open the hole up a bit more with say an 8mm , but my thing is to start smaller first instead of going at it with an 1/2inch as one of my mates did, took me hours to weld up all the holes instead of an hour for the whole job
|
||
|
|
|
|
18-08-2009, 06:30 PM
|
#6 | ||
|
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Moe town... cheers leski put us on the map!
Posts: 63
|
oh yeah cheers, thanks for that, where abouts are all the spots welds? i had a bit of a half arsed look last night but couldn't really see any
|
||
|
|
|
|
18-08-2009, 08:51 PM
|
#7 | ||
|
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 24
|
well form memory when i did mine they had spot welds along the top of the guard where the bonnet sits, all the way down the front past the head light(you will need the headlight removed i think) and to the bottem of the gaurd between the apron,and mabey three more attached to the sill underneath the car.you also have to pull out the inside mud cover it has about 6 screws and there is 2 or 3 bolts right up the back of the gaurd between it and the passanger door. hope that helps.
|
||
|
|
|
removing panels
Linear Mode
