Bargain Brakes! Wooohooo!

[GK]

I called Hightek Brakes for dba slotted and Advance pads.

Answer is great news for us all!

$100 each front or rear, $55 for advance pads $10 postage to Melbourne metro area.

Even better news, this price for AU's is permanent until dba put up their price.
: : :

GK

[The Dok]

Originally Posted by GK

I called Hightek Brakes for dba slotted and Advance pads.

Answer is great news for us all!

$100 each front or rear, $55 for advance pads $10 postage to Melbourne metro area.

Even better news, this price for AU's is permanent until dba put up their price.
: : :

GK

Yup, did mine a few weeks ago, (from Cam @Hightek), you will be very happy with the pads especially, almost zero dust & no squeel compared to the nasty Ferodo pigs I removed that were only a few months old. Stops much better now, however, as in my case, a good idea is to bleed the rears as well, as careful as I was retracting the pistons (front) some air seems to have entered the lines so in bleeding the whole system, eliminated the spongy pedal I initially had. :

[GK]

Originally Posted by The Dok

Yup, did mine a few weeks ago, (from Cam @Hightek), you will be very happy with the pads especially, almost zero dust & no squeel compared to the nasty Ferodo pigs I removed that were only a few months old. Stops much better now, however, as in my case, a good idea is to bleed the rears as well, as careful as I was retracting the pistons (front) some air seems to have entered the lines so in bleeding the whole system, eliminated the spongy pedal I initially had. :

Dok, any special trick to this, or a one way valved bleeding tool do the trick?

GK

[The Dok]

Originally Posted by GK

Dok, any special trick to this, or a one way valved bleeding tool do the trick?

GK

Good question............the same thing happened when I put those nasty Ferodo pads in @6 months ago (air in the lines). I guess it's a suck it & see situation. Mine wasn't bad, it was during the road-test I found a little more pedal travel than usual, so using new fluid (different colour) I bled them all through till the blue fluid was evident. Grab a mate, a six pack, whack it up on stands & go for it. It's recommended (by experts apparantly) to flush & renew fluid whenever changing/servicing brakes & I'd agree because brake fluid does become contaminated during normal use. :

[GK]

Originally Posted by The Dok

Good question............the same thing happened when I put those nasty Ferodo pads in @6 months ago (air in the lines). I guess it's a suck it & see situation. Mine wasn't bad, it was during the road-test I found a little more pedal travel than usual, so using new fluid (different colour) I bled them all through till the blue fluid was evident. Grab a mate, a six pack, whack it up on stands & go for it. It's recommended (by experts apparantly) to flush & renew fluid whenever changing/servicing brakes & I'd agree because brake fluid does become contaminated during normal use. :

Cheers, I'll give it a go!

GK

[JC]

Originally Posted by GK

Dok, any special trick to this, or a one way valved bleeding tool do the trick?

GK

I believe you should work from the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder, to the one closest. So RR, LR, RF, LF.

[svo347]

Originally Posted by JC

I believe you should work from the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder, to the one closest. So RR, LR, RF, LF.

so thatd be LR,RR,LF,RF then :

[JC]

Originally Posted by svo347

so thatd be LR,RR,LF,RF then :

Yep. I pictured the car in mind, looking at it from the front. I am a dope sometimes (quiet Bucky).

[The Dok]

This is true, I forgot to mention it because it's (to me) common sense. Well worth mentioning though. I still believe the AU1 brakes are more of a pain to work on than the previous models, I had no such dramas (air in the lines) with my EF or EA or XF before it. Still gotsta do the braided lines yet. :

[GK]

Thanks for that info fellas. I'll buy a couple of bottles of Shell fluid tomorrow.

Any special technique apart from smooth pedal pushing and the one way valved bleeding tool?

Any special tools required to push the piston back? Any ABS issues I should be aware of? Come to think of it, I have a brake spoon (unopened) in the shed! LOL! Time to put it to some good use!

I'm changing pads on rear, and rotors and pads on the front. Rough time estimate?

GK

[GK]

Bump!

[svo347]

Originally Posted by GK

Any special tools required to push the piston back? Any ABS issues I should be aware of? Come to think of it, I have a brake spoon (unopened) in the shed! LOL! Time to put it to some good use!

I'm changing pads on rear, and rotors and pads on the front. Rough time estimate?

GK

With the ED*, the rears , i had to buy a special adapter that works off a 1/2 drive ratchet. i had to push and turn the piston, and no a screw driver wouldnt do it. so you may have to check that.
Use a pin punch and whack the countersunk screw that located the disc as sometimes they are stiff and youll end up buggering it trying to undo it.
Rough estimate. taking it steadily rears say1 hr.
As for the front im not sure, for me to jack , remove wheels,remove calipers,grease bearings,etc etc steady pace no rush 40mins each side...
just be aware when pushing the pistons back in, make sure the brake fluid level is very low otherwise you'll end up with fluid goin everywhere

[JC]

Pretty much what SVO347 said, except rear pistons on AUs are not the screw type as found on the early E series (thank God). I use a G clamp (and a small block of wood - 1 1/2" wide by 1/2" to 3/4" thick & 6" long) to push the piston back on both front and rear. No bearings to worry about with the fronts. And the countersunk screw can be a real b!tch to undo.

All up, not including flush, I can do the lot in about 1 hour. First time I did it though, it was more like 3 hours (Remember that Mr Cube??? LOL) just for the bloody rears.

Add an extra 40 mins or so for a complete flush.

[GK]

Thanks guys, I've added that info to my file.

GK

[GK]

Originally Posted by JC

Pretty much what SVO347 said, except rear pistons on AUs are not the screw type as found on the early E series (thank God). I use a G clamp (and a small block of wood - 1 1/2" wide by 1/2" to 3/4" thick & 6" long) to push the piston back on both front and rear. No bearings to worry about with the fronts. And the countersunk screw can be a real b!tch to undo.

All up, not including flush, I can do the lot in about 1 hour. First time I did it though, it was more like 3 hours (Remember that Mr Cube??? LOL) just for the bloody rears.

Add an extra 40 mins or so for a complete flush.

JC, would jacking up all 4 corners with safety stands aid the bleeding process, I have 2, someone else has 2. That was my idea anyway. It would mean having access to any wheel at any time, and rid me of the need to take off wheel, change pads (and rotor) put wheel back on, lower wheel, move to another wheel etc, etc, etc! Any problem with this? :

Otherwise I would probably use 2 stands, and do the rears first, considering that's where I need to start with the bleeding and flush process.


What do you think?

GK

[JC]

Personally, I would not trust 4 jack stands.

I would (and do) start with LR, change discs, pads and bleed. Then do RR and keep going around the car doing RF last. That way you only need to take each wheel off once.

JC

[GK]

Thanks for that advice!

GK