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24-05-2006, 08:50 AM | #1 | ||
Formally Kia Chaser
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,493
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I had a rather dangerous scenario this morn.
Canberra: Roads are damp this morning - looks like they are dry, but a little slippery. Going around a very sharp corner at about 20k's an hour when the car starts to drift, so I give it some boot.... and for about 1-2 secs... NOTHING. This was bad as the opposite lane was banked up and had come to a crawl. Finally, it decided to kick back to 1st gear and give me some grip, and I was away... but any later and I would have taken out 2 cars and a motorbike. PLEASE NOTE: The drift was completly un-intentional. So my question is, how can I improve the throttle response or whatever so it will kick back quicker? Will turning off "econ" do this, or only just about an extra .2 of a second quicker? I would like it to be able to start to change gears straight away when I put the boot in....
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Kia Grand Carnival (2006) Silver, Grill Mesh, Tints, Sidesteps (with lights), Towbar, 7" Touch Screen DVD Tuner with intergrated GPS & Bluetooth, Roof Mounted Flip Down 15.1" LCD Screen, Reverse Camera - 184Kw HSV Clubsport R8 VY (2003) Black, 6sp Manual, Coulson Seats, Red on black interior, Pacemaker extractors, Twin 2.5" exhaust, Custom Red 20" VE GTS Rims, Custom Red Stitching
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24-05-2006, 11:05 AM | #2 | ||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,704
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Firstly, if you are drifting, and the back end is kicking out, applying the accelerator is not the way to get out of it. By hitting the throttle, you are only increasing the power oversteer effect, and are more likely to turn the drift into a spin. You would be better gently applying the brakes and steering out of the drift/slide. You were just plain lucky that when it did kick down it didn't make the situation worse. The lesson here is to drive to the conditions, and recognise that the first rain always makes the roads slippery as it brings all the oil etc to the surface.
If you really want instant kickdown - move the gear selector manually. Two other options, one good but not cheap, one not so good but cheap: 1. Get the S5 solenoid adjusted for faster shifts. Cost around $300 2. Buy and install electronic shift kit - cost between $50 and $120 to buy, or you can make one for around $15 or so. If you go this route, get the fully adjustable one (with potentiometer) so that you can adjust to the shift firmness & speed you want.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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24-05-2006, 07:36 PM | #3 | ||
growing up is optional
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Gawler area SA
Posts: 3,303
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Im not real happy with the shift logic on my AUII either. It seems as tho you have to really plant your foot to get it to kickdown at low engine speeds. I have heard that reflashing the PCM can help this. Anyone got any more info??
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24-05-2006, 07:54 PM | #4 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake Macquarie, Newcastle NSW
Posts: 3,164
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Quote:
1/ When trans is in performance mode, shifts will be smooth on normal driving patterns, hard accelaration will result in firm, tight fast shifts and hopefully, accompanied with a chirp from the tyres as we all love. 2/ Economy mode will result in standard to soft shift patterns. Naturally, the flash tuning device will have factory default and standard gearbox shifts programmed also for Ford service etc. |
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24-05-2006, 08:04 PM | #5 | ||
Mustang GT mmmmmm......
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mornington Peninsula
Posts: 1,459
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I found the economy mode can leave the trani in the wrong gear when you have to go in a hurry. I leave it in normal now, just in case i need to move.
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I have become a Mustanger. |
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24-05-2006, 08:08 PM | #6 | ||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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I originally used to drive mine in adaptive shift mode #3 mode because thats what it was set to anyways when i got it , and i didnt find out until about 2 weeks later how to change the tranny settings ( talking about the xr6 here with 3 modes ) .. Originally when i first tried the Power #1 setting , i found i didn't like it because the kickback was as you mentioned , very slow to respond or you had to plant your foot totally - allthough i liked the firmer/higher rev range gear change better. I went back to #3 adaptive shift for a while the decided to try power mode again for a while.. since last changing it to power mode about a month ago, the gears now seem to kick back fine ?? , dunno why but they do , now i have a nice firm shift and good responsive instant kickback, the only thing different i recall doing since changing it back to power mode is giving it a gutfull for the first week or 2 / driving it like it was stolen ..lol , I've had it on #1 power mode ever since and all has been fine since then, even now when cruising .
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24-05-2006, 09:50 PM | #7 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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the main gripe i have is if i pull it back too second and boot it, thats where i want it too stay until im ready to select the next gear ......or until i put it back into drive,..... i supect if you selected 3rd and stuck the boot in the computer would chuck it back another cog if the kph were acceptable, back to the thread .......maybe they could alter shifts with an edit???? need the gurus to answer that one
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24-05-2006, 09:54 PM | #8 | ||||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,704
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Quote:
Quote:
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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24-05-2006, 09:55 PM | #9 | |||
www.TUFFCARPARTS.com
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,221
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Quote:
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24-05-2006, 09:56 PM | #10 | |||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,704
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Quote:
But as they can be switched off, buy one and see what you think - you may like it. If you asre buying one to save time on the 1/4 mile, they are worth less than 0.1 second, so not really worth it IMO.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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24-05-2006, 10:22 PM | #11 | ||
Formally Kia Chaser
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 2,493
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It wasn't so much a drift where the back was sliding out, but more where I went from a wet patch of road to a dry patch, but managed to get the car sliding to the right with all 4 wheels, hence, now being on dry road and wanting to get grip...
Anyway, I don't car about shift speeds, it's just the fact it took almost a whole 2 secs to decide to change gears.... thats what I want to improve on....
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Kia Grand Carnival (2006) Silver, Grill Mesh, Tints, Sidesteps (with lights), Towbar, 7" Touch Screen DVD Tuner with intergrated GPS & Bluetooth, Roof Mounted Flip Down 15.1" LCD Screen, Reverse Camera - 184Kw HSV Clubsport R8 VY (2003) Black, 6sp Manual, Coulson Seats, Red on black interior, Pacemaker extractors, Twin 2.5" exhaust, Custom Red 20" VE GTS Rims, Custom Red Stitching
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24-05-2006, 10:22 PM | #12 | ||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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JC ... if you have a duel stage then why not install your own pot to make the shift kit more usable to your liking. If you get a multimeter and measure the resistance on the 2 different stages , then replace the switch with a pot with a max rating of the maximum resistance reading you get, the lesser resistance is not to bother as you can can set the resistance from 0 ohms to whatever needed with a pot.. If you find a certian setting you like ( at a certian resistance ) , you could even add a resistor of that required resistance before the pot so you would have a firm shift point for the shift to start when the pot is dialed all the way down ...ie ..like a 1k pot ranges from 0ohms to 1000 ohms / you can set it to range from like 250ohms to 1000ohms/1k, then dialing up from there will change the firmness of the shift.
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25-05-2006, 08:59 PM | #13 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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Quote:
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26-05-2006, 12:23 AM | #14 | |||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,704
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Quote:
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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26-05-2006, 08:17 AM | #15 | |||
Fantastic Plastic
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mars most of the time
Posts: 2,019
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Quote:
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26-05-2006, 09:32 AM | #16 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,633
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Quote:
Thanks, Rod. |
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26-05-2006, 10:01 AM | #17 | ||
Built Ford Tough
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: State of Euphoria Mod: F-Series
Posts: 3,035
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Go get a flash tune, and 'fix' your shifts, whilst improving power, etc.
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Black on white '83 SWB F100 C6 auto 351C on gas and on the ground --> Project Thread '55 F100, just a roller at the moment, new project Silver MY12 Volkswagen Amarok |
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