Manual conversion

Obriza · 22-11-2006, 09:26 PM

Hi im posting this for a friend of mine. He is thinking of converting his au to manual, and he is wondering what parts are needed for such a conversion.
Also he wants to know what good places there are that do this kind of thing around the south east area of Melbourne.
Thanks
Daniel

janek · 22-11-2006, 09:55 PM

ftg will be your best bet.

allow at least 1500

Obriza · 28-11-2006, 05:33 PM

so at least $1500? Any idea what parts would be needed if we were gonna do it ourselves?

jonbays · 28-11-2006, 05:47 PM

forget get a hi stall converter and a 3.9 diff you won't be sorry.

GlennBA · 28-11-2006, 06:10 PM

You'll need:
Transmission, clutch, clutch cable, pedal box, tailshaft and perhaps ECU (makes it easier if you put in a manual ECU), gear boot, gear stick and gear knob
I think thats it?
It sounds like a lot of stuffing around, but i've done it to mine and i could never go back to an automatic ever again.

Also if you put in a new ECU you'll need to take it to ford to get them to code the ECU to the BCM.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbays

forget get a hi stall converter and a 3.9 diff you won't be sorry.

says you! :monkes:

:

EvilChief · 28-11-2006, 07:40 PM

u need a search

Smoked · 28-11-2006, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlennAUII

You'll need:
Transmission, clutch, clutch cable, pedal box, tailshaft and perhaps ECU (makes it easier if you put in a manual ECU), gear boot, gear stick and gear knob
I think thats it?
It sounds like a lot of stuffing around, but i've done it to mine and i could never go back to an automatic ever again.

Also if you put in a new ECU you'll need to take it to ford to get them to code the ECU to the BCM.

says you! :monkes:

:

How would you do an E-Gas? ECU swap is not possible, at all.

bodes-sh · 28-11-2006, 08:45 PM

it is possible with an auto ecu, the difference being you need to modify the reverse light plug and it's up to you, but there is a resistor that can be put into the auto wiring harness to stop the thermos from running all the time, otherwise the fans will run all the time

Obriza · 29-11-2006, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlennAUII

You'll need:
Transmission, clutch, clutch cable, pedal box, tailshaft and perhaps ECU (makes it easier if you put in a manual ECU), gear boot, gear stick and gear knob
I think thats it?
It sounds like a lot of stuffing around, but i've done it to mine and i could never go back to an automatic ever again.

Also if you put in a new ECU you'll need to take it to ford to get them to code the ECU to the BCM.

That does sound like alot of stuffing around, maybe we'll just get it done professionally. Any suggestions on a good place to get it done?

jonbays · 29-11-2006, 07:57 PM

It is a lot of stuffing around.

Trust me 3.9 diff gears and a hi stall and you will be pleased with the results even if you like manuals. it will even cost less and take less time.

GlennBA · 29-11-2006, 08:14 PM

Any mechanic should be able to do it for you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbays

It is a lot of stuffing around.

Trust me 3.9 diff gears and a hi stall and you will be pleased with the results even if you like manuals. it will even cost less and take less time.

Yes.. maybe it'll give good results but that doesn't change the fact its still automatic. Manuals have quite good results too from personal experience. Also most manual drivers will agree that a beefed up auto has nothing on a manual. Its personal preference ;)

Damo · 29-11-2006, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbays

It is a lot of stuffing around.

Trust me 3.9 diff gears and a hi stall and you will be pleased with the results even if you like manuals. it will even cost less and take less time.

lol!!!!!

jonbays · 29-11-2006, 08:21 PM

At the drag strip the manual might beat the auto 1 in 4 times at best with the same power to weight.

It is so much easier with the auto to launch cleanly and it changes gears much quicker and way more reliably. On the street no question auto is quicker in passing speeds too. Well with the right diff and converter it will be.

For track work club race hillclimb rally though no question manual is the only way to go for instant positive control.

Abacus · 29-11-2006, 09:13 PM

What will a 3.9 diff and a high stall do to fuel consumption?

Cam · 30-11-2006, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abacus

What will a 3.9 diff and a high stall do to fuel consumption?

about the same as dropping in a manual will....it'll become crap because you'll be too busy enjoying the extra acceleration :1syellow1

Cam

janek · 30-11-2006, 12:34 PM

but if you have a manual, you can choose to lower the fuel consumptiuon, not so with histall/diff... plus you rev higher at highway speeds...

perkz · 30-11-2006, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonbays

At the drag strip the manual might beat the auto 1 in 4 times at best with the same power to weight.

It is so much easier with the auto to launch cleanly and it changes gears much quicker and way more reliably. On the street no question auto is quicker in passing speeds too. Well with the right diff and converter it will be.

For track work club race hillclimb rally though no question manual is the only way to go for instant positive control.

But it's boring....

StealthAu · 30-11-2006, 01:24 PM

perkz, comments like that only come from people who have no idea of what they are talking about.

jonbays · 30-11-2006, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by perkz

But it's boring....

I can tell you haven't driven an auto with a hi stall and high ratio diff.

I only have a 3.45 diff and 2500rpm stall both very mild but if I wanted to be silly it is FUN FUN FUN

Not Boring.

parker · 30-11-2006, 04:23 PM

But you've still got the auto dictating the gear you're in, rather than you.

Richo86 · 30-11-2006, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parker

But you've still got the auto dictating the gear you're in, rather than you.

Not necessarily, you can still choose to be in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear in an auto ;) And also, if you shift from 3rd gear into Drive with the revs high enough, perhaps it would kick into 4th? I've never actually tried that though, so don't take my word for it.

My shift partner at work reckons auto drivers can still use their cars as manuals (without the clutch obviously) via selecting the gear/s using the shifter. 'At the lights, put it into first, then up to second, third, and so on...' is what he says. He was a mechanic for many years so I'd be interested to see what others have to say about that. Wouldn't gearing down present some problems as you couldn't go straight from say 3rd or 4th to 1st gear?
I've never tried any of the above, because I'm too afraid to root my tranny :P

Back on topic (well, sort of...) - don't you need a transmission cooler if you get a high-stall converter? I remember reading that they were pretty inexpensive too (around $100-$150?)

Dezza · 30-11-2006, 05:05 PM

There are lots of little things you'll have to get for the manual conversion. I did one on my EA recently. It is a big job. It took us a day, but I had a lot of help from some of the e-series people. Make sure you get a new spigot bearing and while the gearbox is out, you may as well do the rear main seal. My manual cost about $600 all up, and it was completely worth it. It certainly feels faster, even if the gearchanges are slower, and it is a lot more enjoyable.

Faded_Mantis · 30-11-2006, 07:54 PM

Richo, you can, and yes unless you have your foot right down, it will go into 4th when you put it from 3rd into drive (If you do have your foot right down it waits until just before you red line before changing, when in sports mode).

I've heard things from various people from time to time saying an auto gets more wear if you change the gears like that, but wouldn't it be just the same as the car deciding when to change gears? Shouldn't wear any faster should it?

Another person told me to be careful if doing that to change down because it the revs get above redline then the automatic box is more likely to fall out than a manual, but he drives as WRX so what does he know.

bodes-sh · 30-11-2006, 09:50 PM

i'm pretty sure that either the computer that controls the auto box, or the box itself will not downchange if you are going too fast for that gear, ie if you are doing 140 and put it into 2nd it shouldn't shift down until about 100 or less...i'm sure i will be corrected if i'm wrong

GlennBA · 01-12-2006, 12:01 PM

manual FTW ;)

zippy450 · 01-12-2006, 04:01 PM

guys i've put my box through hell and won't change back if you have too high of speed.... it will back back to 1st at about 70-80kmph. i still want to put a shift fit in just for some extra fun

Racecraft · 01-12-2006, 04:11 PM

BTR auto's are not all that! ... I have a full house 500+hp one in my car and it is going to be replaced by a C4.. Hi-stalls and diff ratios, shift kits and coolers... Whoppeeeee Do, you might go faster in a straight line (and that is VERY debateable with our low RWKW output) but what happens when you get to a corner?

GlennBA · 01-12-2006, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racecraft

BTR auto's are not all that! ... I have a full house 500+hp one in my car and it is going to be replaced by a C4.. Hi-stalls and diff ratios, shift kits and coolers... Whoppeeeee Do, you might go faster in a straight line (and that is VERY debateable with our low RWKW output) but what happens when you get to a corner?

: so honest... so true..

Abacus · 01-12-2006, 10:46 PM

Would there be any additional problems if you were converting a Fairmont in terms of electronics, etc, or would the same procedure as outlined above with regard to the BEM etc still work?

Smoked · 02-12-2006, 01:09 PM

Maybe an issue with the Climate Control, but Im not to sure.